Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[psycho-neon]

can you share Gerber file?

Sure. I’ll post the git repo once all test are done. I’m making a small revision at the moment about the size and some extra pads.

 

[mviper28]

Sure. I’ll post the git repo once all test are done. I’m making a small revision at the moment about the size and some extra pads.

good job,
it would be nice if you add extra pad for led DIN, so if someone need to connect it to switch lite led

 

[etnicor]

Does anyone know what the correct diode readings for a switch lite are?

Are these in the ballpark?(Meassured with GND on USB port)
3v = 0.748
C = 0.645
A = 0.545
D = 1.310
B = 1.145
GND = 0.05

 

[mviper28]

Does anyone know what the correct diode readings for a switch lite are?

Are these in the ballpark?(Meassured with GND on USB port)
3v = 0.748
C = 0.645
A = 0.545
D = 1.310
B = 1.145
GND = 0.05

D = 1.310 has incorrect reading it should be between 0.400 to 0.800

 

[etnicor]

D = 1.310 has incorrect reading it should be between 0.400 to 0.800

Thx, yes actually just double checked D just now and resoldered . It's now 0.492V

 

[Dukenukemx]

I tried restoring my nand through eMMC RAW GPP and when it finished it said, "Your eMMC is initialized in slower mode! This might mean hardware issues!" When I check eMMC info I see Read/Write fails: 2. I also tried another Switches NAND and had the same problem, but with 3 errors instead of 2. There must be something wrong with the mod chip itself or maybe something else went wrong in the Switch?

 

[QuiTim]

I tried restoring my nand through eMMC RAW GPP and when it finished it said, "Your eMMC is initialized in slower mode! This might mean hardware issues!" When I check eMMC info I see Read/Write fails: 2. I also tried another Switches NAND and had the same problem, but with 3 errors instead of 2. There must be something wrong with the mod chip itself or maybe something else went wrong in the Switch?

100Ω on dat0?

 

[Dukenukemx]

100Ω on dat0?

I tested dat0 at nearly 200Ω in circuit. One image I found shows that it should be 250Ω. The clk was tested as a short so I replaced it with a 47Ω resistor but in circuit it tests at 41Ω. Should I replace dat0 with a 100Ω resistor?

 

[deeps]

I tested dat0 at nearly 200Ω in circuit. One image I found shows that it should be 250Ω. The clk was tested as a short so I replaced it with a 47Ω resistor but in circuit it tests at 41Ω. Should I replace dat0 with a 100Ω resistor? View attachment 422642

Throw it out and get an rp2040-tiny or zero instead. You know, the kind of chips that are actually supported in this thread

 

[Viktorsilva]

Update from my custom pcb design:


I received the custom pcb I made for rp2040, assembled all components and tested. It works great! It seems faster in glitching also about 2sec consistent.

Edit:
Each custom pcb and all components costs about less than $2 only.

Your own Picofly look even better then the original . If Philippines werent so far away from Portugal, i would certainly be your customer. Great Work

 

[Dukenukemx]

Throw it out and get an rp2040-tiny or zero instead. You know, the kind of chips that are actually supported in this thread

You mean this one? Isn't it the same thing as I have but in a different form factor? Which thread would be for my type of mod chip then?

 

[deeps]

You mean this one? Isn't it the same thing as I have but in a different form factor? Which thread would be for my type of mod chip then?

Yes, that's the one. It's almost the same thing but without an undocumented-and-horrible-quality pcb. Plenty of issues keep arising with the chinese clone boards that don't happen with rp2040-zero or tiny and it's not in the interest of this thread to discuss those issues here. Here are a few suitable threads for your purpose:

https://gbatemp.net/threads/hwfly-shaped-picofly-boards-start-shipping-in-china.632179/
https://gbatemp.net/threads/error-2002-3540-on-a-freshly-modded-switch.639602/
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-hwfly-clone-help.649060/
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-switch-error-code-2002-3539-in-ofw-17-0-0-and-17-0-1.646223/

Note that the rp2040-zero comes without resistors, and you should attach 100 ohm to dat0, 100 ohm to cmd, and 47 ohm to clk by yourself. The best resistor size for the purpose is 0805. The rp2040-tiny comes with 47-ohm resistors preattached to those points, which works most of the time but sometimes is too weak (resulting in slow emmc) and you'd need to add additional 47 ohm resistors to dat0 and cmd in that case.

 

[QuiTim]

I tested dat0 at nearly 200Ω in circuit. One image I found shows that it should be 250Ω. The clk was tested as a short so I replaced it with a 47Ω resistor but in circuit it tests at 41Ω. Should I replace dat0 with a 100Ω resistor? View attachment 422642

Late replay but yes, that was the idea.
Deeps already explained pretty much everything that needs to be explained. You can give it a shot a replace the resistors on your current "hwfly" but as deeps already said, you should go with rp2040 boards that are supported in this thread (and in the guide) since pretty much all possible issues with those boards have been discussed and resolved here already.
Cheers

 

[Dukenukemx]

Late replay but yes, that was the idea.
Deeps already explained pretty much everything that needs to be explained. You can give it a shot a replace the resistors on your current "hwfly" but as deeps already said, you should go with rp2040 boards that are supported in this thread (and in the guide) since pretty much all possible issues with those boards have been discussed and resolved here already.
Cheers

How hard is it to install the RP2040-tiny?

 

[QuiTim]

How hard is it to install the RP2040-tiny?

Not much harder than the one you have. Mosfet soldering can be a bit tricky (if ypu want to do a bare mosfet directlty to APU)but you can use the flex cable that came with your hwfly which is a bit easier.
You still have to solder the points on the board but you need to do that anyway so....
The up side is that you have 750 pagese on this thread where you have all the info that you might encounter during install.

 

[Viktorsilva]

Try to avoid using magnet (enameled) wire, if you don't have experience with it you might end up with cold joint or a short somewhere, use 36-40awg pfa or ptfe or silicone wire.

Not much harder than the one you have. Mosfet soldering can be a bit tricky (if ypu want to do a bare mosfet directlty to APU)but you can use the flex cable that came with your hwfly which is a bit easier.
You still have to solder the points on the board but you need to do that anyway so....
The up side is that you have 750 pagese on this thread where you have all the info that you might encounter during install.

yes, i agree. 750 pages with precious information where you can learn from the mistakes and failures of other users and prevent the same mistakes

 

[Dukenukemx]

Not much harder than the one you have. Mosfet soldering can be a bit tricky (if ypu want to do a bare mosfet directlty to APU)but you can use the flex cable that came with your hwfly which is a bit easier.
You still have to solder the points on the board but you need to do that anyway so....
The up side is that you have 750 pagese on this thread where you have all the info that you might encounter during install.

It beats waiting for Aliepress to send me another mod chip. This video does say a ribbon cable makes it easier. Do I still need mosfets if I reuse the cable? Is there a better instructional video to do this?

 

[QuiTim]

It beats waiting for Aliepress to send me another mod chip. This video does say a ribbon cable makes it easier. Do I still need mosfets if I reuse the cable? Is there a better instructional video to do this?

I would not follow this video, it complicates things too much. Just follow the guide from here and you are all set: https://gbatemp.net/download/a-definitive-picofly-install-guide.37968/download

And no, you don't need mosfet when you use flex cable (it already has 2 mosfets attached)

 

[Rodel]

I tested the resistor and I'm reading 196ohms. It's the one where the green line goes to. The other ones in that image are reading 42ohms except for the clk 27 which reads a dead short. That's the blue one. Isn't that one also suppose to be 47ohms? I'm going by the image.

If that's the case the resistor is too low..change it with 47ohms or if you have rp2040 zero chip.just replace it..

 

[psycho-neon]

Tinyfly v2.0 - the layout is based on the well known rp2040-tiny from waveshare but made for switch.

1. All necessary pads are exposed and the LED DIN as well.
2. Resistors and capacitors are 0402 size for easier soldering
3. Default D0,CMD,CLK resistors are 100,100,47ohm respectively

I've attached here the gerber file and bom/pick and place files.

Updates:
Tinyfly v2.0.zip - Initial Release
Tinyfly v2.0b.zip - Added extra pads for GND and 3V3 line on the right side. Swapped CPU and RST at the bottom part. Some components are changed to basic parts if planning to fabricate using JLCPCB.
Tinyfly v2.0c.zip - Adjusted few and changed components to basic parts for cheaper fabrication.

Images:



Component Mappings: