Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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I prefer 2.76.
2.75 already fixed the 'shutdown' issue though.

This is what i understand about the changelog of 2.76:
* Finer timing step for searching glitch point from 10 -> 8.
* Change algorithm of waiting for glitched identification on dat0.
* Change of the timing parameter when uploading data to the emmc via dat0.
(Its pretty drastic from 4248 to 527. I've no idea what is the impact. But i think it is modified by trial and error.)
Hi, i was having issues with my previous 2.75 and it sometimes boots to ofw. I tried to reflash to 2.76 and now it keeps booting to ofw. How to reset it to make it train the chip for the 1st time ya? For some reason it doesn’t train the chip after reflash even i reflash back to 2.75
 
Hi, i was having issues with my previous 2.75 and it sometimes boots to ofw. I tried to reflash to 2.76 and now it keeps booting to ofw. How to reset it to make it train the chip for the 1st time ya? For some reason it doesn’t train the chip after reflash even i reflash back to 2.75
what model? oled?
 
Hi, i was having issues with my previous 2.75 and it sometimes boots to ofw. I tried to reflash to 2.76 and now it keeps booting to ofw. How to reset it to make it train the chip for the 1st time ya? For some reason it doesn’t train the chip after reflash even i reflash back to 2.75
"sometimes boots to ofw"
this might indicate the installation are not stable.

If it is, it cannot fixed by software, need to be solved on hardware solution.

Usually happened on flex dat0 adapter.
Especially if the switch got shake a lot, like in the transportation, or if the game is physical.
Need use a more solid solution like permanent dat0 using thin conductor, emmc adapter or drill method.
 
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"sometimes boots to ofw"
this might indicate the installation are not stable.

If it is, it cannot fixed by software, need to be solved on hardware solution.

Usually happened on flex dat0 adapter.
Especially if the switch got shake a lot, like in the transportation, or if the game is physical.
Need use a more solid solution like permanent dat0 using thin conductor, emmc adapter or drill method.
Hi, thanks for the response. Okay will check the dat0 adapter again. Thanks 🙏🏻🙏🏻
 
Hey guys... I'm back. and I think I fucked up. Please tell me this can be saved? tore the bottom pad

After a second glance it appears as though some of the pad is still there. Salvageable? I think I'm getting in too over my head here. Any person I can send this to and fix this mess?
 

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Last edited by bmanzzs,
Hey guys... I'm back. and I think I fucked up. Please tell me this can be saved? tore the bottom pad

After a second glance it appears as though some of the pad is still there. Salvageable? I think I'm getting in too over my head here. Any person I can send this to and fix this mess?
Dude you need a smaller package. You could probably get away with size 0603. Also you need a fine tip and tweezers to hold it, once you solder one end, the other end becomes easy.

This assumes you're not a total newbie.
If you are this is the correct procedure:

Get an iron rod and adjust it to 300C, slowly position it close enough to lift the old package. Rule of thumb, never forcefully lift anything off the pcb if you find resistance otherwise it will not end well. Once removed, add flux and tin the pads to make it easy to mount the new resistor. Clean and add small amount of flux just enough to see the mounting pads. Now take the new resistor and slowly place it in that position (flux will help you hold the bugger in place). Once positioned, slowly move your iron at one end until you notice it securing in place. Now do the same to the other end. Do not hold your iron for more than 2 sec otherwise you will transfer the heat melting both ends knocking away the resistor.
 
Last edited by Hassal,
Dude you need a smaller package. You could probably get away with size 0603. Also you need a fine tip and tweezers to hold it, once you solder one end, the other end becomes easy.

This assumes you're not a total newbie.
If you are this is the correct procedure:

Get an iron rod and adjust it to 300C, slowly position it close enough to lift the old package. Rule of thumb, never forcefully lift anything off the pcb if you find resistance otherwise it will not end well. Once removed, add flux and tin the pads to make it easy to mount the new resistor. Clean and add small amount of flux just enough to see the mounting pads. Now take the new resistor and slowly place it in that position (flux will help you hold the bugger in place). Once positioned, slowly move your iron at one end until you notice it securing in place. Now do the same to the other end. Do not hold your iron for more than 2 sec otherwise you will transfer the heat melting both ends knocking away the resistor.
Thank you for the advice, will try.
 
Last edited by bmanzzs,
Hey guys... I'm back. and I think I fucked up. Please tell me this can be saved? tore the bottom pad

After a second glance it appears as though some of the pad is still there. Salvageable? I think I'm getting in too over my head here. Any person I can send this to and fix this mess?
2layers front trace to the cpu, it is fixable
 

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Easier to solder small resistors with a proper hot air station/rework station.
If you dont have a proper microscope when soldering.

Hold the resistor steady with tweezer and then apply hot air. Dont forget flux.
 
I'm pretty sure this is ok, but I'm asking because it never hurts.
I'm gonna use a flex for core V2 Switch on a oled by cutting it and soldering a wire directly to the 0 ohm resistor.

Soldering the wire to the circled point would be fine, right?
 

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I'm pretty sure this is ok, but I'm asking because it never hurts.
I'm gonna use a flex for core V2 Switch on a oled by cutting it and soldering a wire directly to the 0 ohm resistor.

Soldering the wire to the circled point would be fine, right?
Connect line to 3rd resistor
 

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Dude you need a smaller package. You could probably get away with size 0603. Also you need a fine tip and tweezers to hold it, once you solder one end, the other end becomes easy.

This assumes you're not a total newbie.
If you are this is the correct procedure:

Get an iron rod and adjust it to 300C, slowly position it close enough to lift the old package. Rule of thumb, never forcefully lift anything off the pcb if you find resistance otherwise it will not end well. Once removed, add flux and tin the pads to make it easy to mount the new resistor. Clean and add small amount of flux just enough to see the mounting pads. Now take the new resistor and slowly place it in that position (flux will help you hold the bugger in place). Once positioned, slowly move your iron at one end until you notice it securing in place. Now do the same to the other end. Do not hold your iron for more than 2 sec otherwise you will transfer the heat melting both ends knocking away the resistor.

2layers front trace to the cpu, it is fixable

Easier to solder small resistors with a proper hot air station/rework station.
If you dont have a proper microscope when soldering.

Hold the resistor steady with tweezer and then apply hot air. Dont forget flux.

Thank you everyone for all of the wonderful advice.

I have a magical video to share with y'all. I was at this for 2 hours last night without success, but I felt good turning on the iron today and somehow attached it in 5 min.

I ended up using a 10k ohm resistor, and knew it should be fine thanks to abal1000x's useful info. It's hard to see, but I guess there was enough pad left to attach both ends. I can't believe I almost gave up. You guys gave me the confidence I needed I think.

Now on to actually installing the mod chip once I get a replacement kit
 

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Hello guys. Does anyone have an aliexpress link to a GOOD one of these dat0 adapters?
 

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Connect line to 3rd resistor
Ah yes, the one going to 3rd and 4th pin on the flex. That would make the most sense but it's kinda uncomfortable to solder there because it's too squeezed against one of the mosfets.
Wouldn't it be just the same if I were to solder to R2, which is much easier to reach?
 
Ah yes, the one going to 3rd and 4th pin on the flex. That would make the most sense but it's kinda uncomfortable to solder there because it's too squeezed against one of the mosfets.
Wouldn't it be just the same if I were to solder to R2, which is much easier to reach?
You could do that too, I'm just showing you the correct schematic.
 
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I have read this thread from page one to page 627 (still ongoing, hahaha). There is a lot of interesting information about where to start and what tools are needed to begin. Truly a very beneficial group
 
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