Well I always tried to be careful of where I placed them, both on the up and down side of the pcb. I ran out of IPA but tomorrow I'll clean all the RAM to APU traces and check them thouroughly. But the crocodile clips have never been even near the center of the pcb, much less the apu. I'll check the places I've attached them to!
Thanks for the reply!
If you have manual air pump
Or usb vaccum cleaner you might use it to clean debris i.e below bga.
You could also check when booting to manuallly press the dram, or the cpu, or the emmc carefully. If the issue gone then you found your problem.
Okay, thank you so much for your help! I'll try all that and update tomorrow!
For the first question: Yes, it's safe to remove it, along with the usb-c connector and the two buttons.
For the second question: check the actual product images, the first presentation image is wrong, but the products are ok.
I've no comment on that, need more confirmation from others.
Logically sense the first solder on clk (before desolder and run ofw) which you claimed good, might be problematic.
But if you confident if its good, lets say its really did good, then maybe the clk resistor need higher value than 47Ohms, similar to CMD and DAT0.
The reasoning is, electrical power (which is miniscule for data line), suck by rp2040 too much, so the emmc have troubled to sense the clk signal. Adding the resistor value will lower the current that goes to rp2040 hence lowering the power taken by rp2040, hopefully the clk signal goes to emmc have enough power for emmc to 'sense' it. This just cheap analyze, i've not yet read the number on the datasheet of the current and voltage rate of the emmc.
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I have experiment on the correlation of glitching time with the resistor value.
Using 100ohms on CLK seems not affect the glitch time. Still glitch like usual, but i don't check until benchmarking the emmc or goes to ofw/cfw.
If its really true that your clk is good before desolder it, then for safety, i will use 100 ohms to CLK for my next project. At least it has no effect on the glitch, also could solve a probable problem.
Thanks for sharing the experience.
Last edited by abal1000x,
I've read the number of current on the datasheet its in the range of hundreds microamps.
Lets say hypothetically its 100 percent goes to rp2040, then the current 3.3v/47ohm = 70 milliamps.
Which is huge i think.
For 100 microamps hypthetically need 33k ohms.
Next experiment i am gonna used 4.7k, 1k, 500, 100.
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It could be like that.
But he confident that his works is good.
That could be a crucial information.
I read lot of people with strange error on emmc.
Maybe this explains.
Thats why we need more confirmation to prove the theory.
Last edited by abal1000x,
It just double sided tape with some fabric threads to make it stronger. The thing is that the adhesive used in this tape is good and it holds well.
There is no particular reason to use this one, it just happens that I had this one on hand and it works well.
The current is limited by the firmware to 2ma, enabled only when talking to the eMMC
Whilst I'm reading this thread FreeLander has killed more than 10 consoles. I know skilled guys who have done 100+ consoles without a single issue.
Yes, awg 36 or 0.1mm wire. Using a thicker can higher the chances of pads getting ripped off from the board. And it is not easy jumper the pads, you need proper equipment like heat gun or solder balls (Also, Scratching the boards for traces
).So, use awg36 or 0.1mm for all and for mosfet use 0.2mm wire. G point for mosfet can be 0.1mm. 0.1mm wire will have less chances of pads getting ripped off and easy to handle. Tip: use solder mask after soldering the wire.
Thanks a lot !!!Yes, awg 36 or 0.1mm wire. Using a thicker can higher the chances of pads getting ripped off from the board. And it is not easy jumper the pads, you need proper equipment like heat gun or solder balls (Also, Scratching the boards for traces
So, use awg36 or 0.1mm for all and for mosfet use 0.2mm wire. G point for mosfet can be 0.1mm. 0.1mm wire will have less chances of pads getting ripped off and easy to handle. Tip: use solder mask after soldering the wire.
have u ali link for that ?
Does anyone know what causes the Picofly to reset training data and swap firmware? I did an OLED today and initially I flashed the Pico Zero over USB with 2.73 but after a few reboots it was randomly resetting the training data. I flashed 2.74 using the picofly toolbox because it was the version I had on my testing SD card but now what happens is it will randomly reset training data and then ALSO swap firmwares between 2.73 and 2.74. It happens both ways too. It will be on 2.73 and I reboot it a few times then it will reset training and swap to 2.74. Then I do the same checking glitch stability and it will reset training data AGAIN and swap back to 2.73.
Any idea what this could be? Is it a bad Pico zero maybe? When it's glitching it glitches fast on both firmwares but I just cant get more than around 10 reboots in to test stability before it resets it's training and swaps firmware back and fourth.
Any idea what this could be? Is it a bad Pico zero maybe? When it's glitching it glitches fast on both firmwares but I just cant get more than around 10 reboots in to test stability before it resets it's training and swaps firmware back and fourth.
For 0.1mm wire:
Soldering Wire 0.1mm PCB Link Jumper Wire
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOj9L1Q
For 0.2mm wire:
Copper lacquer wire0.1mm -0.9mmCable Copper Wire Magnet Wire Enameled Copper Winding Wire Coil Copper Wire
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrluwPe
Just select 0.2 mm in length option.
These are the two wires Which I used on my all switches. You can also find a amazon link for all these or on ebay it's up to you which you prefer based on your location or price.
I am sorry in advance for a noob question. I have switch lite which is modded with picofly. Whenever i powered it on it shows Hekate menu but now something went wrong. I got it modded just a few days a go, duerng the checking new things an homebrew apps in Album i mistakenly run tegra explorer and since then whenever i reboot or power it on it takes me to tegraexplorer instead of hekate. Please help me to restore hekate menu back
you need to update your PAYLOAD.BIN file on the root of your SD Card, Download the latest Hekate from https://github.com/CTCaer/hekate/releases and extract the file to the root of your SD card, then rename the file hekate_ctcaer_6.0.5.bin as payload.bin then you are sure you have the latest hekate and latest payload.
Thank you. You just saved me from hours of google searches
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