Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[mattytrog]

Hi @mattytrog

Just received a switch that someone tried and failed modding, was wondering if you can tell me the best way to fix this?

Resistor has been desoldered and that usb pad has been lifted. (this is the next to the USB disconnect strap). Are you able to advise OHMs or part number I'd need to replace it? Can I short this? Switch does not boot as is.

EDIT:
Switch DOES boot, it just had autorcm on, injected hekate via pc and it boots. Is it safe to ignore this resistor?

Cheers mate!

That is a testpoint that's been lifted. Was originally for temperature according to datasheet. Goes high on usb connection.

You need the resistors that have been burned off next and below it

 

[smasha]

That is a testpoint that's been lifted. Was originally for temperature according to datasheet. Goes high on usb connection.

You need the resistors that have been burned off next and below it

Cheers mate, I think the resistor underneath is fine, it's just the missing resistor on the right. Switch still seems to boot to hekate, haven't tried booting to horizon yet. Do you know which resistor i need to replace it with?Any repercussions if i just bridge the joint?

 

[mattytrog]

Cheers mate, I think the resistor underneath is fine, it's just the missing resistor on the right. Switch still seems to boot to hekate, haven't tried booting to horizon yet. Do you know which resistor i need to replace it with?Any repercussions if i just bridge the joint?

Will check values when I get home

 

[mrdude]

@mattytrog, If you're doing a custom mod for yourself - I put all my keys + prod info on my chip as well - so never need to worry about a brick as these can be restored from chip to sd card :-) with a simple button press. Now I have :SXOS Licence + Key + payload + prodinfo.bin + all my switch biss/tsec keys etc. Have I missed anything - or is that me brickproof now?

 

[mattytrog]

@mattytrog, If you're doing a custom mod for yourself - I put all my keys + prod info on my chip as well - so never need to worry about a brick as these can be restored from chip to sd card :-) with a simple button press. Now I have :SXOS Licence + Key + payload + prodinfo.bin + all my switch biss/tsec keys etc. Have I missed anything - or is that me brickproof now?

It's a good idea. Unfortunately I'm limited on stack space. On a feather with SD card, the possibilities are endless.

Where we place our stack (at the moment) is limited to 126k just over.

I'd have to start removing features.

However, the debrick payload I'm making (nearly abandoned it) is coming along. The drill goes...

Get your keys from fuses.bin and tsec and generate using the keygen on sdsetup.
Drop this on SD card as a txt file... Along with 6.1.0 firmware folder, insert SD, run payload...

Will be unbricked.

It's got easier since I've sussed out fatfs and diskio writing. The features are (in Hekate) to write raw images only, and in lockpick it is stubbed out altogether.

Work continues.

 

[smasha]

Will check values when I get home

Legend!! Thanks mate!

EDIT:

Found an old post of yours with an attached schematic here showing the resistors:

https://gbatemp.net/threads/compone...erboard-and-main-console.525026/#post-8411401


Will order some resistors, but looks like i can only get THICK FILM versions, would that be ok?

https://au.element14.com/w/c/passiv...3-metric-&resistance=10kohm&power-rating=50mw

 

[TariqSoftDev]

Legend!! Thanks mate!

EDIT:

Found an old post of yours with an attached schematic here showing the resistors:

https://gbatemp.net/threads/compone...erboard-and-main-console.525026/#post-8411401


Will order some resistors, but looks like i can only get THICK FILM versions, would that be ok?

https://au.element14.com/w/c/passiv...3-metric-&resistance=10kohm&power-rating=50mw

Take a look here: http://www.resistorguide.com/thin-and-thick-film/

Thick film resistors aren't great for applications such as temperature measuring, sound output/input, general measurements and etc; this is because it's more susceptible to noise and such compared to the others, I'll edit this post after looking at the resistors you're missing and it should be an answer to whether it's okay to use thick film in replacement for carbon film.

Alright here's the edit: I see Mattyrog has already pointed that it is used for temperature, now since thick film is less suited to this due to it being more sesceptible to noise you may has a reading error of 0.1C-5C(Wide net since I don't know how fragile it the sense line is with noise), should be fine to use a thick film.

 

[smasha]

Take a look here: http://www.resistorguide.com/thin-and-thick-film/

Thick film resistors aren't great for applications such as temperature measuring, sound output/input, general measurements and etc; this is because it's more susceptible to noise and such compared to the others, I'll edit this post after looking at the resistors you're missing and it should be an answer to whether it's okay to use thick film in replacement for carbon film.

Alright here's the edit: I see Mattyrog has already pointed that it is used for temperature, now since thick film is less suited to this due to it being more sesceptible to noise you may has a reading error of 0.1C-5C(Wide net since I don't know how fragile it the sense line is with noise), should be fine to use a thick film.

Brilliant, thanks mate! Have ordered a bunch of different ones from that link i pasted before, in case I mess them up. Any tips/suggestions on soldering these tiny little f***s haha?

@mattytrog there wasn't an alternate USB disconnect strap point by any chance?

 

[KingsmanZer0]

would trinket M0 be be the best one to install on the switch.

 

[mattytrog]

Brilliant, thanks mate! Have ordered a bunch of different ones from that link i pasted before, in case I mess them up. Any tips/suggestions on soldering these tiny little f***s haha?

@mattytrog there wasn't an alternate USB disconnect strap point by any chance?

Not looked. Will take a look

 

[mrdude]

However, the debrick payload I'm making (nearly abandoned it) is coming along. The drill goes...

Get your keys from fuses.bin and tsec and generate using the keygen on sdsetup.
Drop this on SD card as a txt file... Along with 6.1.0 firmware folder, insert SD, run payload...

Will be unbricked.

Now this does sound very interesting indeed - I look forward to seeing this out in the wild :-), and probably many people who 'accidentaly brick - or who blame a child/relative', will also be able to use this - and give them some hope.

 

[mattytrog]

Now this does sound very interesting indeed - I look forward to seeing this out in the wild :-), and probably many people who 'accidentaly brick - or who blame a child/relative', will also be able to use this - and give them some hope.

Well here's hoping...

There was two ways of potentially doing this.

1. The encrypted partition is mounted with BIS keys directly (with just a small sector cache)

2 the partition is dumped raw to SD, decrypted into a cache from SD, modifications made, remove keys so it goes back to a raw file, restore raw file.

It will be number 2. Just finding time.

 

[DenisTheManis]

it aint pretty, but I made it
Was my first soldering project and it took me three M0s to finally decide to get the right gear for the job (lens, third hand, lighting, and the right cable).

 

[smasha]

it aint pretty, but I made it
Was my first soldering project and it took me three M0s to finally decide to get the right gear for the job (lens, third hand, lighting, and the right cable).

Good job mate, but the tape will not hold at all, use some epoxy and dab a bit on the wires and glue them to the board (don't glue your connections, just the wire)

 

[TariqSoftDev]

Good job mate, but the tape will not hold at all, use some epoxy and dab a bit on the wires and glue them to the board (don't glue your connections, just the wire)

I disagree; using glue like epoxy and etc depending on the bond and strength can cause damage upon removal if not patient.

Size your wires before hand, don't leave so much exposed, use flux when soldering, ensure a good connection and you'll be fine.

Use something like 36,38 or 40awg kynar wire as it's easy to manipulate and if it comes off due to force it'll snap from the solder joint rather than damaging the points.
As a note, I myself starting out would use wire like that for these jobs and hold it down with tape then I used glue and etc, I found myself damaging the board more than ever when I was not being careful, using the kynar wire is alot better, sure it may be hard to strip sometimes and when it snaps it's a pain to resolder but it's better than having a pad and etc torn off as electronics are not as simple as they used to be so a repair job is harder.

His job is looking good but this is my advice from the years of soldering I've done; I'm no master but someone still learning everyday.

Oh and last tip, use Sn63/Pb37 solder; it's leaded but works at a lower temperature and I've had a 100% better experience using this over the general 60/40

 

[Hayato213]

Good job mate, but the tape will not hold at all, use some epoxy and dab a bit on the wires and glue them to the board (don't glue your connections, just the wire)

Well if possible it is best to not use any glue, electrical tape and kapton tape would do the job for keeping wires from moving.

 

[smasha]

Well if possible it is best to not use any glue, electrical tape and kapton tape would do the job for keeping wires from moving.

During installation of course. But post install, that tape isn't going to hold at all once it starts getting warm inside the switch. Infact it might peel off and end up in the fan or something. If he's not confident in the wires holding, then epoxy is best. Matty says so himself in his first post. as well No need to ever remove it anyway. And you don't put epoxy over the connections themselves, just putting a small dab somewhere along the wire down onto a safe spot on the board is enough.

 

[Hayato213]

During installation of course. But post install, that tape isn't going to hold at all once it starts getting warm inside the switch. Infact it might peel off and end up in the fan or something. If he's not confident in the wires holding, then epoxy is best. Matty says so himself in his first post. as well No need to ever remove it anyway. And you don't put epoxy over the connections themselves, just putting a small dab somewhere along the wire down onto a safe spot on the board is enough.

Mattytrog never mentioned about putting any epoxy on the wire itself, he said the shield covering the processor of the switch, you should read.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

 

[smasha]

Mattytrog never mentioned about putting any epoxy on the wire itself, he said the shield covering the processor of the switch, you should read.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

What are you on about mate? Maybe you should read it properly instead.

He say's it wont stick long term if you put epoxy on the shield, he is not recommending to put the epoxy on the shield itself. And says if your soldering quality is good enough, then you don't need any type of glue. He also uses it regardless even though his soldering quality is good enough because he is OCD.

My suggestion to [URL='https://gbatemp.net/members/denisthemanis.499254/']DenisTheManis [/URL]was to simply use epoxy instead of leaving the barely stuck on tape hanging around inside the switch. If he's leaving the tape in there like that, then he's obviously not confident in the quality, and in this case epoxy is better.

 

[TariqSoftDev]

Mattytrog never mentioned about putting any epoxy on the wire itself, he said the shield covering the processor of the switch, you should read.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

During installation of course. But post install, that tape isn't going to hold at all once it starts getting warm inside the switch. Infact it might peel off and end up in the fan or something. If he's not confident in the wires holding, then epoxy is best. Matty says so himself in his first post. as well No need to ever remove it anyway. And you don't put epoxy over the connections themselves, just putting a small dab somewhere along the wire down onto a safe spot on the board is enough.

Alright I'll just clarify some things, Matty said "Epoxy won't stick to the shield long-term"; now this does not provide a direct reference of whether or not it should be used to tack wires down or not.

Next; I only say not to use such means and use a thin guage wire such as 36, 38 or 40awg Kynar wire(the type used in magnets and such), now the reason I say this is because if he uses this wire then glue and etc won't be needed.

Now the reason I disagree with using epoxy and glue as such is because as some people like to revise and refine their work since they can be OCD about it like me, they may re-open their console to tidy up their working, now if you've just started modded and you open your console and lets say you're not so experienced in removing epoxy and other adhesives you may be impatient with such subjects or you may try and do it without proper removal tools which can lead to lifted or torn traces/pads if you tacked the wire down with the adhesive over any of these points which is not so easy to repair unless you've got another board to figure out where said pad was leading to if it leads into the multi layer board structure, as for traces if you're not too skilled in micro soldering it can be a pain and either lead to a patchy finished job or a even more broken console, I only say this because I take in mind the mind state some may have alongside with their skillset and how new they are to such things as soldering.

NOTE: Both of you, don't argue; be open to everyones opinions and such, we should be mature about things no?