Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[65a]

I just successfully soldered in a Adafruit Trinket M0. I've attached Joycon, Ground, VCC (to the cap o' doom), and the USB protection strap. On powerup, one LED is flashing rapidly (I believe this indicates bootloader mode). I do not see a drive appear when I attach a USB C--> USBA (3) cable, rather only a Nintendo HID device.

The Trinket is powered (that cap was probably one of the more challenging solders, but it actually went well) and Volume+ puts the device into RCM.

I assume this is one of three things:

1. I flashed the trinket before installation, but I *only* flashed switchboot stage 1, assuming I could flash stage 2 in situ.
2. There is an issue with my usb solders on the trinket
3. I misunderstood the purpose of the RCM/USB disconnect strap and it is sabotaging me.

Any thoughts?

 

[mattytrog]

I just successfully soldered in a Adafruit Trinket M0. I've attached Joycon, Ground, VCC (to the cap o' doom), and the USB protection strap. On powerup, one LED is flashing rapidly (I believe this indicates bootloader mode). I do not see a drive appear when I attach a USB C--> USBA (3) cable, rather only a Nintendo HID device.

The Trinket is powered (that cap was probably one of the more challenging solders, but it actually went well) and Volume+ puts the device into RCM.

I assume this is one of three things:

1. I flashed the trinket before installation, but I *only* flashed switchboot stage 1, assuming I could flash stage 2 in situ.
2. There is an issue with my usb solders on the trinket
3. I misunderstood the purpose of the RCM/USB disconnect strap and it is sabotaging me.

Any thoughts?

OK... You need to get the SAMD update mode activated... Push Switchboot part 2 with TegraRCMsmash and select SAMD update mode... Follow the prompts... Might need to do it twice - first time nothing may happen. Then double-pres RESET and the UF2 drive should pop up.

USB strap is optional... All it is for, is just to kick you out of RCM if you have console plugged into USB when you power the chip on. (RCM will be triggered, though no payload can be pushed as the USB port is in use from the PC to console). Upon disconnection, payload will be pushed. Thats all it does.

 

[65a]

Thanks.

I get a message that libsys_lp0.bso is missing, next line Using: Bakup_1 Fuse: 9 Max. FW v8.0.1

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Not sure if it helps, but I currently do not have an SD card installed.

 

[mattytrog]

Thanks.

I get a message that libsys_lp0.bso is missing, next line Using: Bakup_1 Fuse: 9 Max. FW v8.0.1

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Not sure if it helps, but I currently do not have an SD card installed.

Thats a problem! Very little will happen on fw 8.0.1 without an SD card... You are on latest firmware I`m guessing...

 

[65a]

Interesting. It did not do anything from the smashed payload, but rebooting from the smashed payload (during which I double reset a few times) caused the drive to appear. Thanks!

Yes, latest firmware. Main goal is dual boot with OFW and Linux. Bought it new & unpatched a few days ago...retail stores must be hurting if the stock is that old!

 

[kermit84]

Hi everyone, can any one please helps me i doo everything but i cant flash my trinket mo too switchboot

it stays everytime trinketboot

Can any one please help me i have no more idea how i can flash it probebly

 

[mattytrog]

Hi everyone, can any one please helps me i doo everything but i cant flash my trinket mo too switchboot

it stays everytime trinketboot

Can any one please help me i have no more idea how i can flash it probebly

Is your uf2 file 512kb in size? Are your power, GND and USB lines soldered well?

They are the only problems you will face

 

[kermit84]

Is your uf2 file 512kb in size? Are your power, GND and USB lines soldered well?

They are the only problems you will face

Thanks Matty a lot ,

yes the file is 512KB must i rename it to Current.UF2 ?

But after writting it stays trinketboot but not switchboot

I have the new universal solder method with 3V

I need a realy help i will that face using when its working

greets
kermit84

 

[mrdude]

Thanks Matty a lot ,

yes the file is 512KB must i rename it to Current.UF2 ?

But after writting it stays trinketboot but not switchboot

I have the new universal solder method with 3V

I need a realy help i will that face using when its working

greets
kermit84

Switchboot - is just the name of the payload, trinket boot is the bootloader on your chip (nothing to do with the payload).

It will always say that - flashing a utf doesn't overwrite the first stage bootloader - it starts writing the utf at address 0x2000 (if I remember correctly - could be a different address), so flashing utf files are safe to use, so your chip will always say trinketboot (unless you write a new first stage bootloader starting at address 0x0 - which you'll never do via usb flashing).

 

[kermit84]

Switchboot - is just the name of the payload, trinket boot is the bootloader on your chip (nothing to do with the payload).

It will always say that - flashing a utf doesn't overwrite the first stage bootloader - it starts writing the utf at address 0x2000 (if I remember correctly - could be a different address), so flashing utf files are safe to use, so your chip will always say trinketboot (unless you write a new first stage bootloader starting at address 0x0 - which you'll never do via usb flashing).

I can it only flash with usb before i never have problems

UF2 file you mean or ?

 

[sandog]

xxxxxx

 

[Hayato213]

sx website down?

Site seems to be down, also this is the wrong thread for SX OS stuffs, it is on fitting a modchip.

 

[Tag234]

I attempted install today and everything went well... except for the 3.3V 0402 point. Ended up bridging the lower cap top contact with the upper cap that handles VCC. Battery was fully disconnected. I had to remove the lower cap in order to clear the short. Currently, I have removed the cap who's top pad is normally used as 3v source for universal trinket install.

(can't post image, too new)

Unfortunately, I lost the component. I see that it's supposed to be a 2.2uF 0402 replacement. I've got an 0402 4.7uF, but no 2.2uF... Can I replace it with this cap and be OK??

I do have 2.2uF through hole capacitors but I'm not sure I can utilize those. Is there some way I can use the pad as 3.3v source and then use my 2.2uF through hole to accomplish the same thing?

This is my fault and could have been avoided. I didn't see the alternate 3.3v on the NAND daughter board which looks so much easier...

Appreciate any help!! Thanks

 

[n2outlaw]

I just got my two trinket m0 and was wondering do I connect to both points on the joycon strap or one or the other?

 

[metaljay]

matty will weigh in, but from memory i think both points are ok

 

[Tag234]

I just got my two trinket m0 and was wondering do I connect to both points on the joycon strap or one or the other?

Either point or both together is fine. They are connected.

 

[n2outlaw]

Vol+ Strap (Optional) resistor came off. I still have it but its too tiny to even put back. Does anyone know what I can do?

The two points that hold the resistor are clean so I didn’t damage the board.

I just stopped at this point and not tested.

 

[RetroDude]

Vol+ Strap (Optional) resistor came off. I still have it but its too tiny to even put back. Does anyone know what I can do?

The two points that hold the resistor are clean so I didn’t damage the board.

I just stopped at this point and not tested.

in my understanding, this connection is optional, if you leave it off you have dual boot. power button = original firmware, and power + vol + = custom firmware. this is better than ruining your switch by trying to make this optional connection work.

here is mine

 

[Tag234]

I attempted install today and everything went well... except for the 3.3V 0402 point. Ended up bridging the lower cap top contact with the upper cap that handles VCC. Battery was fully disconnected. I had to remove the lower cap in order to clear the short. Currently, I have removed the cap who's top pad is normally used as 3v source for universal trinket install.

(can't post image, too new)

Unfortunately, I lost the component. I see that it's supposed to be a 2.2uF 0402 replacement. I've got an 0402 4.7uF, but no 2.2uF... Can I replace it with this cap and be OK??

I do have 2.2uF through hole capacitors but I'm not sure I can utilize those. Is there some way I can use the pad as 3.3v source and then use my 2.2uF through hole to accomplish the same thing?

This is my fault and could have been avoided. I didn't see the alternate 3.3v on the NAND daughter board which looks so much easier...

Appreciate any help!! Thanks

So I went ahead and completed the install. I used an alternate 3V point, and I replaced the missing 2.2uF cap with a 4.7uF cap.

Everything seems to be working well for the most part except for charging. In Switchboot, the displayed current while plugged in is usually about 200mA. When I boot into Horizon and then plug in the switch, I get "Unable to Charge"... Is this caused by my 4.7uF cap? Should I just bite the bullet and buy a set of 2.2uF 0402 off of digikey? Is it maybe ok to remove the cap instead?

 

[Chocola]

So I went ahead and completed the install. I used an alternate 3V point, and I replaced the missing 2.2uF cap with a 4.7uF cap.

Everything seems to be working well for the most part except for charging. In Switchboot, the displayed current while plugged in is usually about 200mA. When I boot into Horizon and then plug in the switch, I get "Unable to Charge"... Is this caused by my 4.7uF cap? Should I just bite the bullet and buy a set of 2.2uF 0402 off of digikey? Is it maybe ok to remove the cap instead?

There is a big difference on 2.2uF and 4.7uF (more than x2), on micro electronic components you should respect the specifications, on the case of capacitors you can use capacitors of more voltage if you didn't find them, but the capacitance should be the same or you alter the voltages of the line of PBC, probably be the cause of your charging issue.