Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[mattytrog]

Hi, what capacitors are those?

Resistors. 150r 0201 size 50mW

 

[ST_inger]

Resistors. 150r 0201 size 50mW

If I have destroid these resistors, can I bridge them?

 

[mattytrog]

If I have destroid these resistors, can I bridge them?

Yes. Gpio will not be harmed if you bridge them.

 

[ST_inger]

Yes. Gpio will not be harmed if you bridge them.

Thanks a lot.

 

[roamin]

Just AutoRCM and use sleep mode ..... get ya a payload injector

why the heck would i want to carry anything around besides the switch? best mod anyone can do to a switch is to run a trinket.
anywhere anytime, just turn it on, want to change files on sd card? just put the card back in and turn it on and it boots.
your out and about and homebrew crashes, which homebrew does a lot, just turn it back on as nintendo intended.
a trinket is $10 and soldering is free. how is it a waste? you probably paid more for your jig that you need to keep shoving in and carrying around.

ask anyone here who actually has done it is it a waste or a stupid idea, they will tell you its the best thing they did to there switch.

 

[Undwiz]

why the heck would i want to carry anything around besides the switch? best mod anyone can do to a switch is to run a trinket.
anywhere anytime, just turn it on, want to change files on sd card? just put the card back in and turn it on and it boots.
your out and about and homebrew crashes, which homebrew does a lot, just turn it back on as nintendo intended.
a trinket is $10 and soldering is free. how is it a waste? you probably paid more for your jig that you need to keep shoving in and carrying around.

ask anyone here who actually has done it is it a waste or a stupid idea, they will tell you its the best thing they did to there switch.

Never said it was a waste or a stupid Idea. Have not had to use the Jig in months that's the point of AutoRCM. My switch stays Docked in sleep mod. Only have to inject payload after I had games to SD and still don't need the Jig. Hit the power button put the Payload injector in for a few seconds and take it out.

Got the Payload injector for $10 and came with the Jig. Don't have to take it apart and risk damage.

What I said "every one has a opinion, but to me this is so pointless vs what you get"

Like I said every one has a opinion and that one was mine. Never did I say it was stupid and a waste of time so please don't put words in my mouth then act offended by the words you put in my mouth LOL. anyways to each there own. I have no reason to take my switch apart do all this work that takes time just to not use my injector that I only use maybe once a month.

 

[jaebear]

What currently is the best/easiest chip to buy for this? Preferably one that requires no pre-prep.

 

[metaljay]

What currently is the best/easiest chip to buy for this? Preferably one that requires no pre-prep.

Rebugs SwitchMe, although if its the prep your worried about then maybe this isn't for you. The soldering is incredibly tiny (the straps are much smaller than anything I've soldered before!)

 

[Deleted User]

@xstre pwnsx


You could check continuity from the ribbon cable latch to the contacts at the joycon rail.


Solder like me. It works, trust me


You could solder on a alternative vol + solderpad. On the backside of switch maiboard you have testpadcluster G, G4 is testpad for vol +. Solder there.


View attachment 160971
View attachment 160972

These supposed to be alt for joy and vol+? Just tried them and no go

 

[mattytrog]

Updated (Well, simplified the OP... Was getting far far too messy)

 

[cmcollander]

Thanks for the updated post! I finally had the courage (could have been stupidity if it went wrong!) to do this about a month ago, and it took a couple days to get it right with all straps. Screwed up a couple things, fixed them again. I've had tons of soldering experience, but this is the first time I've worked with anything this small. Crazy scary, but absolutely rewarding just knowing I was able to do it. My friends are coming to me now asking me to do this to their system! HELL NO! It was scary enough working on my own property...

 

[mattytrog]

They do get easier, the more of them you do...

The only golden rule(s) of fitting a chip is:

Tape then solder - Tape your wires down before you solder to board side.
0.3mm conical tip iron - no more than say 350 degrees
Use Kapton.
Use flux, especially for the vol+ strap, I recommend the polish TK85 stuff... No-clean, non corrosive - though it can leave things slightly sticky
Remember, in this game, the poisonous something is, the better it is. That means use leaded solder. Chuck that lead-free crap in the dustbin

 

[Nelmeco]

Hello, I currently have a switch, a jig, and a trinket m0. I have tried reading the directions a few times but I am still somewhat confused and am encountering issues.

Form what I can tell...
1) I need to flash the bootloader for the trinket m0, which is done here on the SWITCHBOOT_PART1 link on the first page

1a) I would use Joycon Control Only -> Trinket -> Switchboot_Trinket_Joycon.uf2 and copy it over to my standard Trinket m0 (As I want to dual boot). I have done this, and now have "SWITCHBOOT" as the drive (which I understand is correct).​

2) I need to flash a secondary SWITCHBOOT UF2 b/c I am using the Universal Method. At this point I am not sure which one to use as my only options are on the SWITCHBOOT_PART2 link on the first page.

2a) I have used the Trinket_Rebug****.uf2 however I am not sure if this one is correct. I dont see a Simple-UF2.uf2, and I'm not using the "Method3" or "Legacy 3" as I am doing the Universal Method with just the joycon strap.
​

Is this correct or do I need to use different UF2 files? If this is correct, I have attempted to test this (as I have not soldered it yet or removed the usb port) by using a usb cord with the trinket m0 attached to one end, and the switch connected at the other.

I have confirmed that it is entering RCM mode as I have connected it to the PC first to make sure the jig is working correctly.

However, when I connected the switch to the trinket using a USB cord, the trinket m0 is not powering on at all or sending any data to the switch as the switch stays on a black screen. (I am powering it on and holding the vol+ button)

What am I doing wrong? Can I not test it using a USB cord?

Suggestions and advice are appreciated.

Thank you!

 

[mattytrog]

Hello, I currently have a switch, a jig, and a trinket m0. I have tried reading the directions a few times but I am still somewhat confused and am encountering issues.

Form what I can tell...
1) I need to flash the bootloader for the trinket m0, which is done here on the SWITCHBOOT_PART1 link on the first page

1a) I would use Joycon Control Only -> Trinket -> Switchboot_Trinket_Joycon.uf2 and copy it over to my standard Trinket m0 (As I want to dual boot). I have done this, and now have "SWITCHBOOT" as the drive (which I understand is correct).​

2) I need to flash a secondary SWITCHBOOT UF2 b/c I am using the Universal Method. At this point I am not sure which one to use as my only options are on the SWITCHBOOT_PART2 link on the first page.

2a) I have used the Trinket_Rebug****.uf2 however I am not sure if this one is correct. I dont see a Simple-UF2.uf2, and I'm not using the "Method3" or "Legacy 3" as I am doing the Universal Method with just the joycon strap.
​

Is this correct or do I need to use different UF2 files? If this is correct, I have attempted to test this (as I have not soldered it yet or removed the usb port) by using a usb cord with the trinket m0 attached to one end, and the switch connected at the other.

I have confirmed that it is entering RCM mode as I have connected it to the PC first to make sure the jig is working correctly.

However, when I connected the switch to the trinket using a USB cord, the trinket m0 is not powering on at all or sending any data to the switch as the switch stays on a black screen. (I am powering it on and holding the vol+ button)

What am I doing wrong? Can I not test it using a USB cord?

Suggestions and advice are appreciated.

Thank you!

Hello!

You just need Trinket / Rebug part 2.

Flash part 1 and forget it. Thats it. Done. Until you want to change from dual-boot to perma-cfw boot that is

Then flash part 2. Trinket / rebug will do fine.

 

[Nelmeco]

Hello!

You just need Trinket / Rebug part 2.

Flash part 1 and forget it. Thats it. Done. Until you want to change from dual-boot to perma-cfw boot that is

Then flash part 2. Trinket / rebug will do fine.

Thanks! Still running into an issue though.

I completely started over. I downloaded the Kosmos defaults and moved it to my sd card. Downloaded from sdsetup link in your directions.

I then only flashed Trinket PART1:Switchboot_PART_1/Joycon_Control_Only/Trinket/SWITCHBOOT_TRINKET_JOYCON.uf1 to my Trinket.

I hooked up the switch and trinket with a usb cord, attached the right joycon jig, then held vol+ and pwr. I still get no power to the trinket, however if I disconnect the trinket and hook up the switch to my pc, I can see it is in RCM mode via TegraRcmGUI.

Am I missing a step? Why is the trinket not powering on and triggering a payload when RCM mode is toggled?

EDIT: I also tried flashing PART1 and PART2 with the same outcome, no power on the trinket when the switch enters into RCM mode. I have made no hardware modifications to the trinket yet as I am doing a test run before soldering.

 

[mattytrog]

Thanks! Still running into an issue though.

I completely started over. I downloaded the Kosmos defaults and moved it to my sd card. Downloaded from sdsetup link in your directions.

I then only flashed Trinket PART1:Switchboot_PART_1/Joycon_Control_Only/Trinket/SWITCHBOOT_TRINKET_JOYCON.uf1 to my Trinket.

I hooked up the switch and trinket with a usb cord, attached the right joycon jig, then held vol+ and pwr. I still get no power to the trinket, however if I disconnect the trinket and hook up the switch to my pc, I can see it is in RCM mode via TegraRcmGUI.

Am I missing a step? Why is the trinket not powering on and triggering a payload when RCM mode is toggled?

EDIT: I also tried flashing PART1 and PART2 with the same outcome, no power on the trinket when the switch enters into RCM mode. I have made no hardware modifications to the trinket yet as I am doing a test run before soldering.

The trinket need to be powered externally if not fitting inside console.

As long as you have flashed part one and part 2 then fit it as per the op. It will work. Unless your soldering isn't up to scratch. Or send it to be done if unsure

 

[Nelmeco]

The trinket need to be powered externally if not fitting inside console.

As long as you have flashed part one and part 2 then fit it as per the op. It will work. Unless your soldering isn't up to scratch. Or send it to be done if unsure

Thanks! I'll give it a shot.

 

[Sethtimus Prime]

Where would one even get a Rebug SwitchMe now?

 

[mattytrog]

Where would one even get a Rebug SwitchMe now?

Dunno... Think the Eagle PCB files are out there somewhere. Get the ferric chloride & laser toner out and make some!

If you can get SAMD21E18, fit your own "stealth" chip underneath the console. That will put some hairs on your soldering chest!

 

[rogras]

Thx