Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

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RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

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Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

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ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

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Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[xstre pwnsx]

Yes, you're correct. The solder job on those points was fine seemingly.... anyways in the process of removing that strap... for testing. I lifted the pads up and am now in the process of repairing the trace. :/

 

[Prime420]

Hello guys,

@xstre pwnsx
@mattytrog
@barnhilltrckn

so im finished. I'm fixed my issue. For everybody who have the same problem like me (joycon strap lifted little solder pads and don't have any connection, no RCM and switch don't check if joycon connected). On the backside of switch mainboard you have a testpoint cluster G near the ribbon cable connector for right joycon. Testpad G9 is the RCM Strap. So you can solder joycon rail pin 10 to testpad G9 and from G9 to pin 3 on the trinket M0. Or you solder from joycon rail pin 10 to pin 3 on trinket and from testpad G9 to pin 3 on trinket. It's the same. For me it worked like a charm.

@M-O-B I used the joycon picture from your topic, i hope its okay.

With bet regards
Prime420

 

[xstre pwnsx]

@Prime420, did you repair the lifted pads? Or did you leave those broken pads as is.

 

[Prime420]

@xstre pwnsx
I leaved them as they are. You bridges the broken pads with my method. When you want you can measure with a multimeter the resistance from broken pads (when you see some copper) to testpad G9. You will see a resistance under 0,5 Ohm.

Very important! --> Check every strap you soldered with a multimeter, so you can find issues much better and faster.

I hope you can understand my broken english :/

With best regards
Prime420

 

[mattytrog]

Sorry everyone for lack of help. I`m not getting notifications

No idea where we are at so if anyone could PM me if they have a problem

 

[xstre pwnsx]

How do you solder two wires to one pad, one always comes loose for me..

 

[mattytrog]

How do you solder two wires to one pad, one always comes loose for me..

You don`t. What are you soldering to two pads?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

one pad even?

 

[xstre pwnsx]

"So you can solder joycon rail pin 10 to testpad G9 and from G9 to pin 3 on the trinket M0. Or you solder from joycon rail pin 10 to pin 3 on trinket and from testpad G9 to pin 3 on trinket. It's the same. For me it worked like a charm." from Prime420's post.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Though my issue is I lifted up the two joycon strap solder points, should I attempt to repair that trace... or is there a way I can work around that.

 

[mattytrog]

"So you can solder joycon rail pin 10 to testpad G9 and from G9 to pin 3 on the trinket M0. Or you solder from joycon rail pin 10 to pin 3 on trinket and from testpad G9 to pin 3 on trinket. It's the same. For me it worked like a charm." from Prime420's post.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Though my issue is I lifted up the two joycon strap solder points, should I attempt to repair that trace... or is there a way I can work around that.

You need to repair the trace. Can`t you rebuild the trace with copper wire?

 

[xstre pwnsx]

I have some thin enameled copper wire I'm trying to use, I'll keep going that route then. Would you happen to have any clue though about what prime420 is talking about?

 

[xstre pwnsx]

It just occured to me that the reason I may have not been getting response from right joycon, could be due to the ribbon cable.

 

[xstre pwnsx]

I'm going crazy to repair this trace anybody got any advice on this sort of thing...

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

I'll have pics up in a moment and more details maybe someone here can offer advice..

 

[xstre pwnsx]

current issue

 

[xstre pwnsx]

Blue represents the wire I just put down, the light green area is copper I accidentally exposed on the pcb. I am afraid that if the blue wire makes contact with the highlighted green area will cause problems. Does anyone know if this is likely to be an issue.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Also the entire length of the wire is tinned and exposed

 

[Prime420]

Sry i don't got any notification.

@xstre pwnsx
With my method you can bridge the trace so you don't need to repair it.
I can't repair the trace because my soldering iron and wire was to big for this little trace.
When you can't fit 2 wires on one pad, solder from joycon rail pin 10 to pin 3 on trinket and from testpad G9 to trinket pin 3.
On trinket pin 3 you should easy fit 2 wires.

When you afraid:
You can measure resistance from the light green area to GND, if you see something under 1 Ohm you don't solder there

 

[xstre pwnsx]

@Prime420 thanks for the advice.

 

[jeb101]

Would anybody have a high res scan of the switch pcb with no markings? I'm trying to repair a ripped pad for the volume + button. I need to figure out where the trace leads to, and it's simply too small to do by eye with the gear I have.

I know the source, pin 3 on the header, just not sure where it ends.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

 

[mattytrog]

Would anybody have a high res scan of the switch pcb with no markings? I'm trying to repair a ripped pad for the volume + button. I need to figure out where the trace leads to, and it's simply too small to do by eye with the gear I have.

I know the source, pin 3 on the header, just not sure where it ends.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

 

[jeb101]

That is awesome, thank you!

Curious, the line you run from the bottom of the resistor, does that go to the empty pad next to it and connects to the bottom, or directly below there?

I tried using the pad next to it, in hope to fix it there, but it was like it shorted Power and Vol+ together. Would boot my payload but once there pressing it would power the screen off, but increase the volume!

 

[xstre pwnsx]

Ok several problems atm, right joycon not being detected.... and volume + button not working.... I'm thinking there may be flux on the contact for the vol+ so I cleaned it good and I'll give another try... also as for the right joycon issue it could be that the ribbon cable, and ribbon cable latch have issues... or the jumper wire I put down isn't doing it's job... I'll try to get the vol + button working to see if the speaker works... blue is my jumper wire

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Also the right joycon ribbon cable won't even stay in place the latch for the ribbon cables hinge plastic broke on the right side