Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[popy]

Of course not

Yes it will say UNBRICCed... Its the bit after the UNBRICCD. cust_data correct? Try briccing and unbriccing.

Buttons Vol+ - doesnt work in briicme but in horizoin they are working normal!?
So i cant brick unbrick in bricmii.

 

[mattytrog]

Buttons Vol+ - doesnt work in briicme but in horizoin they are working normal!?
So i cant brick unbrick in bricmii.

Strange... All working here... Just checked.

Double-check in Horizon. If working in Horizon, MUST be working in everything.

 

[popy]

Strange... All working here... Just checked.

Double-check in Horizon. If working in Horizon, MUST be working in everything.

ok, so replaced the payload.bin (SX OS one) with briccmii one an then the buttons are working and i can bric and unric it.
it was unbricced, i bricced it and unbricced it. Nothing changed after replacing the payload with the SX OS one -> i'll got the menu.
Also strange is the when i am launching the briccmii payload from SX OS the vol+ seems to be pressed and bricmii is unbricing immidiattly.
This does'nt happen if i'll use briccmee injected by the trinket.

Really strange also double checked in horizon, there power, vol+ & - are working like they should!?
Maybe the cause is that TRINKETBOOT is holding Vol+ down for 100ms?
Should i'll try another TRINKETBOOT which does not raise straps?

Another question, when i am updating my trinket, do i have to flash TRINKETBOOT again FIRST and then UF2? ALso on Update?
Because i have just flashed UF2 0.94 and not TRINKETBOOT again.

 

[mattytrog]

ok, so replaced the payload.bin (SX OS one) with briccmii one an then the buttons are working and i can bric and unric it.
it was unbricced, i bricced it and unbricced it. Nothing changed after replacing the payload with the SX OS one -> i'll got the menu.
Also strange is the when i am launching the briccmii payload from SX OS the vol+ seems to be pressed and bricmii is unbricing immidiattly.
This does'nt happen if i'll use briccmee injected by the trinket.

Really strange also double checked in horizon, there power, vol+ & - are working like they should!?
Maybe the cause is that TRINKETBOOT is holding Vol+ down for 100ms?
Should i'll try another TRINKETBOOT which does not raise straps?

Another question, when i am updating my trinket, do i have to flash TRINKETBOOT again FIRST and then UF2? ALso on Update?
Because i have just flashed UF2 0.94 and not TRINKETBOOT again.

the straps HAVE to be dropped by using vol+. If you flash TRINKETBOOT back without autoRCM, you will burn fuses.

Yes. Your chip is working correctly. You will find that if you plug your console into PC, your volume icon will appear and disappear.

Strap time is not relavent.

So, cust_data is correct?
Next, do you have licence-request.dat still on there? Get rid of it.

Thinking of solutions...

 

[popy]

the straps HAVE to be dropped by using vol+. If you flash TRINKETBOOT back without autoRCM, you will burn fuses.

ok so i have done the folowing:

• added vol+ & rcm straps
• FLASH trinketboot yesterday
• FLASH Simple-UF2 0.93 yesterday
• disabled autoRCM
• added usb strap today
• flashed Simple-UF2 0.94 today

Just to be sure, thats correct and i dont have to reflash all in the correct order (TRINKETBOOT + Simple-UF2)?

Yes. Your chip is working correctly. You will find that if you plug your console into PC, your volume icon will appear and disappear.

I also think the chip is working and is soldered correctly.
When i'll plug in an charger into the switch (booted into horizon), the vol+ & joycon disconnect/connect icon appears shortly and goes away.
That means the USB strap was recognized and chip reseted, so trinketboot was pushing the vol+ & rcm strap low, correct?

Strap time is not relavent.

That was my first thoughts because when no vol+ strap is fitted (with active autorcm), SX OS is booting straigth to horizon.
When i'll press vol+ and leave it pressed and shortly press power (with active autorcm) the SX OS boot menu pops up.
So my idea was that the volume+ strap is helt down too long!?
What do you think about this?

So, cust_data is correct?

yep, is correct!

Next, do you have licence-request.dat still on there? Get rid of it.

already deleted months ago.

Thinking of solutions...

Its really strange.
Thich FW version you have?
i am on 5.1

Thanks pOpY

 

[mattytrog]

ok so i have done the folowing:

• added vol+ & rcm straps
• FLASH trinketboot yesterday
• FLASH Simple-UF2 0.93 yesterday
• disabled autoRCM
• added usb strap today
• flashed Simple-UF2 0.94 today

Just to be sure, thats correct and i dont have to reflash all in the correct order (TRINKETBOOT + Simple-UF2)?



I also think the chip is working and is soldered correctly.
When i'll plug in an charger into the switch (booted into horizon), the vol+ & joycon disconnect/connect icon appears shortly and goes away.
That means the USB strap was recognized and chip reseted, so trinketboot was pushing the vol+ & rcm strap low, correct?



That was my first thoughts because when no vol+ strap is fitted (with active autorcm), SX OS is booting straigth to horizon.
When i'll press vol+ and leave it pressed and shortly press power (with active autorcm) the SX OS boot menu pops up.
So my idea was that the volume+ strap is helt down too long!?
What do you think about this?



yep, is correct!



already deleted months ago.



Its really strange.
Thich FW version you have?
i am on 5.1

Thanks pOpY

Update firmware. Nothing to do with straps. Enable AutoRCM in sxos... Reboot, then disable.

 

[popy]

Update firmware. Nothing to do with straps. Enable AutoRCM in sxos... Reboot, then disable.

ok, enabled autoRCM in SX OS rebooted, SX OS bootmenu comes up, disabled autoRCM, rebooted SX OS menu comes up.
So sadly no change?
Any idea? It seems that vol+ gets recognized by SX OS payload/menu.
SHould ill try "Trinket_Joycon.uf2" instead of the both to check if its software or hardware related?

 

[mattytrog]

ok, enabled autoRCM in SX OS rebooted, SX OS bootmenu comes up, disabled autoRCM, rebooted SX OS menu comes up.
So sadly no change?
Any idea? It seems that vol+ gets recognized by SX OS payload/menu.
SHould ill try "Trinket_Joycon.uf2" instead of the both to check if its software or hardware related?

Strange one that is. I've never had a problem on 6.x firmware.

Joycon uf2 will burn your fuses up to your current firmware. But you will have dual boot.

 

[popy]

Strange one that is. I've never had a problem on 6.x firmware.

Joycon uf2 will burn your fuses up to your current firmware. But you will have dual boot.

I am officially upgraded to 5.1, so my fuses are burnt to that, so for my tests that wouldnt matter.
Just want to check if the issue is gone.

 

[mattytrog]

I am officially upgraded to 5.1, so my fuses are burnt to that, so for my tests that wouldnt matter.
Just want to check if the issue is gone.

I think the problem is your old firmware. I'll place a fiver on it.

 

[popy]

I think the problem is your old firmware. I'll place a fiver on it.

What do you mean with "I'll place a fiver on it.".
Did you reproduced the issue with 5.2?
All was working well for me on 5.2 so i didnt want to update.
Just a question when the RCM is starting and SX-OS with its payload there is nothing running from the switch firmware & bootloader, so how can the 5.2 be the problem?

I have done the test and flashed "Trinket_Joycon.uf2" and activated autoRCM -> checked just joycon icon on usb connect in horizon -> issue is gone!
Done the opposite, flahed back "Trinket_Both.uf2"-> checked volume up & joycon icon on usb connect in horizon -> issue back (regardless of autoRCM).

So my soldering & trinket is 100% ok.
It seems that the 100ms which the vol+ is held low is to much?
How long must it be pulled to enter RCM, are any tests?

Another idea is that the pin is switched to input direction and missing an pullup!?
Do you know if the pins (RCM & vol+) are pulled low or high to trigger volume up or rcm?

If the are pulled low, we can activate an internal pullup on the pins to not leave it in "high-z".
I looked in the code and you are just switching the direction to input put the datasheet says that no pullup is enabled by default.

pOpY

 

[mattytrog]

What do you mean with "I'll place a fiver on it.".
Did you reproduced the issue with 5.2?
All was working well for me on 5.2 so i didnt want to update.
Just a question when the RCM is starting and SX-OS with its payload there is nothing running from the switch firmware & bootloader, so how can the 5.2 be the problem?

I have done the test and flashed "Trinket_Joycon.uf2" and activated autoRCM -> checked just joycon icon on usb connect in horizon -> issue is gone!
Done the opposite, flahed back "Trinket_Both.uf2"-> checked volume up & joycon icon on usb connect in horizon -> issue back (regardless of autoRCM).

So my soldering & trinket is 100% ok.
It seems that the 100ms which the vol+ is held low is to much?
How long must it be pulled to enter RCM, are any tests?

Another idea is that the pin is switched to input direction and missing an pullup!?
Do you know if the pins (RCM & vol+) are pulled low or high to trigger volume up or rcm?

If the are pulled low, we can activate an internal pullup on the pins to not leave it in "high-z".
I looked in the code and you are just switching the direction to input put the datasheet says that no pullup is enabled by default.

pOpY

No. A pullup is not necessary. The straps are pulled low for 100mS, then changed to input to stop the gremlins that could be left from having the pin left high or low.

A DIRTGL call to flip output to input on PA07 / PA08 (from memory - different for different chips) is all that is needed. And that is only for safety.

Believe me. The issue is not my code. The issue is not strap time. I changed it to 100mS from 500 mS as it was not necessary.

The issue is SXOS looking for corrupted bytes in BOOT0/1.

It isn`t the code / straps or SWITCHBOOT. Could be the new strap causing an issue on 5.X but I`m doubting it... I haven`t got a problem. Test by using an old version of Simple-UF2 - 0.9.3 or below.

The issue will go with autoRCM enabled. Because thats what it being checked for. What I think is happening is SXOS is doing a BOOT0/1 sanity check and seeing that autoRCM is not enabled ON 5.X

Is this different in 6.0? Very possibly.

So... Use a "both" file... Choidujour up to 6.1 / 6.2 and test again.

And "I`ll place a fiver on it" is British for I`ll bet £5 that is what the issue is

 

[popy]

No. A pullup is not necessary. The straps are pulled low for 100mS, then changed to input to stop the gremlins that could be left from having the pin left high or low.

A DIRTGL call to flip output to input on PA07 / PA08 (from memory - different for different chips) is all that is needed. And that is only for safety.

Believe me. The issue is not my code. The issue is not strap time. I changed it to 100mS from 500 mS as it was not necessary.

The issue is SXOS looking for corrupted bytes in BOOT0/1.

It isn`t the code / straps or SWITCHBOOT. Could be the new strap causing an issue on 5.X but I`m doubting it... I haven`t got a problem. Test by using an old version of Simple-UF2 - 0.9.3 or below.

The issue will go with autoRCM enabled. Because thats what it being checked for. What I think is happening is SXOS is doing a BOOT0/1 sanity check and seeing that autoRCM is not enabled ON 5.X

Is this different in 6.0? Very possibly.

So... Use a "both" file... Choidujour up to 6.1 / 6.2 and test again.

And "I`ll place a fiver on it" is British for I`ll bet £5 that is what the issue is

ok flashed both version and will update with Choidujour.

Which firmware do you recommend 6.1 or 6.2?

 

[mattytrog]

ok flashed both version and will update with Choidujour.

Which firmware do you recommend 6.1 or 6.2?

It's like asking if you want to step in dog shit or cow shit.

If you aren't burning fuses... Use the "both" file. Make sure! I'd say 6.2. go for that.

 

[popy]

It's like asking if you want to step in dog shit or cow shit.

If you aren't burning fuses... Use the "both" file. Make sure! I'd say 6.2. go for that.

Running the both file and updated to 6.2, fuses count havent increased. I am on 6 (which is for 5.0 & 5.1) as i was before.
Sadly the issue is the same
Regardless if i am having autoRCM on or off ill see the SX OS menu at boot.

Any ideas, because with the joycon version the issue is gone.
The difference in the code is, that the joycon version just pulls the vol+ for a very short time so SX OS payload/loader cant handle it:

#if defined(JOYCON_PIN_ONLY)
PINOP(JOYCON_PIN, DIRSET); //Set to output
PINOP(VOLUP_PIN, DIRSET);
PINOP(VOLUP_PIN, DIRTGL);//Change direction to input to prevent gremlins
delay(STRAP_HOLD_TIME); //Value set in board_config.h
PINOP(JOYCON_PIN, DIRTGL); //Change direction to input to prevent gremlins
//PINOP(VOLUP_PIN, DIRTGL);
#endif
#if defined(BOTH_PINS)
PINOP(JOYCON_PIN, DIRSET); //Set to output
PINOP(VOLUP_PIN, DIRSET);
delay(STRAP_HOLD_TIME);
PINOP(JOYCON_PIN, DIRTGL); //Change direction to input to prevent gremlins
PINOP(VOLUP_PIN, DIRTGL);
#endif

Any ideas?

 

[mattytrog]

Running the both file and updated to 6.2, fuses count havent increased. I am on 6 (which is for 5.0 & 5.1) as i was before.
Sadly the issue is the same
Regardless if i am having autoRCM on or off ill see the SX OS menu at boot.

Any ideas, because with the joycon version the issue is gone.
The difference in the code is, that the joycon version just pulls the vol+ for a very short time so SX OS payload/loader cant handle it:



Any ideas?

Try the both file.

Then try Simple-UF2 0.9.3 without the new strap code. See if it is the same.

Forget the SWITCHBOOT code. Forget it. That is not the issue.

RCM is either triggered or it isn't. No half measures.

The switchboot code is not the problem. No amount of changing that will do anything.

I have never had the problem with switchboot. I made the bloody thing. Trust me, a lot of testing went into that.

We need to rule out the new strap. Can you test v0.9.3 please?

 

[popy]

Try the both file.

Then try Simple-UF2 0.9.3 without the new strap code. See if it is the same.

Forget the SWITCHBOOT code. Forget it. That is not the issue.

RCM is either triggered or it isn't. No half measures.

The switchboot code is not the problem. No amount of changing that will do anything.

I have never had the problem with switchboot. I made the bloody thing. Trust me, a lot of testing went into that.

We need to rule out the new strap. Can you test v0.9.3 please?

YEAH, its working with 0.9.3!!!!!!
Currently autoRCM is enabled.
I have tested the folllowing:

• 5x: Boot times normal -> SX OS CFW is always started (without boot menu)
• 5x: Restarted horizon 5x times -> SX OS CFW is always started (without boot menu)
• 5x: Press and hold vol+ after short PWR press -> SX OS menu is shown
• 5x: launch briccmii from SX OS menu: its waiting for keys correctly and not doing any action itself (like it was before when vol+ was pressed -> unbrick)

So it seems the new strap is the issue.

Should ill try to deactivate autoRCM to test if all is working without it? Not done yet i am scared
Is it a problem when i leave it soldered and using 0.9.3 -> because of the mode pin?

thx
pOpY

 

[goudje]

my + bottom don't work any more after i think Trinket M0 give bad voltage to a smc I have 2 switch white the same problem lol

 

[mattytrog]

YEAH, its working with 0.9.3!!!!!!
Currently autoRCM is enabled.
I have tested the folllowing:

• 5x: Boot times normal -> SX OS CFW is always started (without boot menu)
• 5x: Restarted horizon 5x times -> SX OS CFW is always started (without boot menu)
• 5x: Press and hold vol+ after short PWR press -> SX OS menu is shown
• 5x: launch briccmii from SX OS menu: its waiting for keys correctly and not doing any action itself (like it was before when vol+ was pressed -> unbrick)

So it seems the new strap is the issue.

Should ill try to deactivate autoRCM to test if all is working without it? Not done yet (:-))
Is it a problem when i leave it soldered and using 0.9.3 -> because of the mode pin?

thx
pOpY

Possibly. Nothing damaging...

Tell you what. I`ll cook up some new UF2s without the strap code. The other bugfixes are still there. Check later on. Some links will be up.

Told you it wasn`t SWITCHBOOT. Trust me. I`m a twat.

Thats a job to do then for next 0.9.5 release... Blag the BQ24193 code.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

my + bottom don't work any more after i think Trinket M0 give bad voltage to a smc I have 2 switch white the same problem lol

+ bottom?

You mean volume +? If so, you have damaged the 150R resistor soldering the strap in. Link it.

 

[goudje]

YEAH, its working with 0.9.3!!!!!!
Currently autoRCM is enabled.
I have tested the folllowing:

• 5x: Boot times normal -> SX OS CFW is always started (without boot menu)
• 5x: Restarted horizon 5x times -> SX OS CFW is always started (without boot menu)
• 5x: Press and hold vol+ after short PWR press -> SX OS menu is shown
• 5x: launch briccmii from SX OS menu: its waiting for keys correctly and not doing any action itself (like it was before when vol+ was pressed -> unbrick)

So it seems the new strap is the issue.

Should ill try to deactivate autoRCM to test if all is working without it? Not done yet i am scared
Is it a problem when i leave it soldered and using 0.9.3 -> because of the mode pin?

thx
pOpY

nice job off you

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Possibly. Nothing damaging...

Tell you what. I`ll cook up some new UF2s without the strap code. The other bugfixes are still there. Check later on. Some links will be up.

Told you it wasn`t SWITCHBOOT. Trust me. I`m a twat.

Thats a job to do then for next 0.9.5 release... Blag the BQ24193 code.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------


+ bottom?

You mean volume +? If so, you have damaged the 150R resistor soldering the strap in. Link it.

yes I mean the + button don't work any more