Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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mattytrog

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@mattytrog: Thanks a lot for your efforts.
Was running the old 4 wire method 1 a couple of months now without an major issue.
Stumbled upon your new universal wiring and SWITCHBOOT + Simple-UF2 and have a few questions.
Want to add the two straps to prevent burning fuses.

Here are my questions:

  • Does SWITCHBOOT with booth straps (rcm & vol+) always boots into RCM without AUtoRCM?
    Asking this because in the past the Trinket/UF2 was too slow to pull those.

  • Can i safely disable autorcm and prevent burnt fuses?

  • WIth my current method when switch is powered off also the trinket has no power.
    I think i have connected VCC to the USB IC capacitor.
    When ill plug the switch into the dock all is working correclty and CFW boots.
    But when the switch is off, and ill plug an charger in it doesnt boot into horizon or doesnt show anything on screen.
    We have talked this about earlier in this thread and you confirmed me that this is normal behaviour.

    Is this minor "issue" solved with the new universal wiring and SWITCHBOOT?

  • Whats the difference betwenn the two VCC points on the switch MB (on the cap of the USB IC and the one near the IC near the rcm strap) ?
    Which one is recommended?
    Does changing the VCC point changing the behaviour that the trinket is powered in "standby"?
Thanks a lot
pOpY

Hello sir!

Right... Lets break this down. I`ll quote your sections and answer them.

Does SWITCHBOOT with booth straps (rcm & vol+) always boots into RCM without AUtoRCM?
Asking this because in the past the Trinket/UF2 was too slow to pull those.
Can i safely disable autorcm and prevent burnt fuses?

Yes it was too slow. Thats why I have made this bootloader. As long as you MAKE EXTRA SURE you have soldered your straps correctly (with autorcm still enabled... Put a joycon in the rail... check by flashing a "both" SWITCHBOOT, power on your switch to the home menu... Press RESET on chip. If volume goes up or attempts to AND you get a "disconnected" symbol and it is working EVERY TIME you press reset) then yes. You can safely disable autoRCM. Nintendo updates will not burn fuses from now on because SWITCHBOOT controls the straps.

WIth my current method when switch is powered off also the trinket has no power.
I think i have connected VCC to the USB IC capacitor.
When ill plug the switch into the dock all is working correclty and CFW boots.
But when the switch is off, and ill plug an charger in it doesnt boot into horizon or doesnt show anything on screen.
We have talked this about earlier in this thread and you confirmed me that this is normal behaviour.

The trinket has no power when off. We have fixed that, again with SWITCHBOOT.
When the switch is off and you plug anything USB(apart from the dock), yes. It will go into RCM.
Nothing we can do about this sadly. It is the nature of a combination of the power management of the T210 and Horizon. This is common to ALL fitting methods, past or present, done by me or not done by me.

HOWEVER... I have a workaround, which I think is the ideal solution. The best of all worlds.

You know that connecting to USB puts you into RCM... So, I have fitted and programmed another strap (its on a testpoint, so nice and easy!) to send a payload the moment USB is disconnected. This is in testing right now. I need to test with various peripherals to make sure all is well.

Whats the difference betwenn the two VCC points on the switch MB (on the cap of the USB IC and the one near the IC near the rcm strap) ?
Which one is recommended?
Does changing the VCC point changing the behaviour that the trinket is powered in "standby"?

No difference at all. It is the same 3v trace that runs all over the board (on the opposite side). Test yourself. Impedance between the two points is zero.
 
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Hello sir!

Right... Lets break this down. I`ll quote your sections and answer them.

Does SWITCHBOOT with booth straps (rcm & vol+) always boots into RCM without AUtoRCM?
Asking this because in the past the Trinket/UF2 was too slow to pull those.
Can i safely disable autorcm and prevent burnt fuses?

Yes it was too slow. Thats why I have made this bootloader. As long as you MAKE EXTRA SURE you have soldered your straps correctly (with autorcm still enabled... Put a joycon in the rail... check by flashing a "both" SWITCHBOOT, power on your switch to the home menu... Press RESET on chip. If volume goes up or attempts to AND you get a "disconnected" symbol and it is working EVERY TIME you press reset) then yes. You can safely disable autoRCM. Nintendo updates will not burn fuses from now on because SWITCHBOOT controls the straps.

WIth my current method when switch is powered off also the trinket has no power.
I think i have connected VCC to the USB IC capacitor.
When ill plug the switch into the dock all is working correclty and CFW boots.
But when the switch is off, and ill plug an charger in it doesnt boot into horizon or doesnt show anything on screen.
We have talked this about earlier in this thread and you confirmed me that this is normal behaviour.

The trinket has no power when off. We have fixed that, again with SWITCHBOOT.
When the switch is off and you plug anything USB(apart from the dock), yes. It will go into RCM.
Nothing we can do about this sadly. It is the nature of a combination of the power management of the T210 and Horizon. This is common to ALL fitting methods, past or present, done by me or not done by me.

HOWEVER... I have a workaround, which I think is the ideal solution. The best of all worlds.

You know that connecting to USB puts you into RCM... So, I have fitted and programmed another strap (its on a testpoint, so nice and easy!) to send a payload the moment USB is disconnected. This is in testing right now. I need to test with various peripherals to make sure all is well.

Whats the difference betwenn the two VCC points on the switch MB (on the cap of the USB IC and the one near the IC near the rcm strap) ?
Which one is recommended?
Does changing the VCC point changing the behaviour that the trinket is powered in "standby"?

No difference at all. It is the same 3v trace that runs all over the board (on the opposite side). Test yourself. Impedance between the two points is zero.

Thanks a lot for your detailed answer.
So i will add the two straps and flash SWITCHBOOT + Simple-UF2 to prevent burning fuses.
And looking forward to your new workaround.
Take your time an keep up the good work.

thx
pOpY
 
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RCM on USB plugin workaround, testing is complete. As soon as USB disconnects in RCM, payload is pushed.

Deleted the video. I hate my voice.

Not crucial to add it, but it may help. Shall I edit all the pics for it or isnt it worth it?

It`s only one strap that makes your switch / chip 100% idiot-proof. Which is vital in my case ;)
 
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RCM on USB plugin workaround, testing is complete. As soon as USB disconnects in RCM, payload is pushed.

Deleted the video. I hate my voice.

Not crucial to add it, but it may help. Shall I edit all the pics for it or isnt it worth it?

It`s only one strap that makes your switch / chip 100% idiot-proof. Which is vital in my case ;)

Thats a great idea.

Regarding our conversation yesterday.
Have soldered the joycon & vol+ strap and in horizon the volume goes up & in the left corner an short disconnect message shows up everytime ill press reset.
So i am good to go to test without autoRCM :D

pOpY
 

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Thats a great idea.

Regarding our conversation yesterday.
Have soldered the joycon & vol+ strap and in horizon the volume goes up & in the left corner an short disconnect message shows up everytime ill press reset.
So i am good to go to test without autoRCM :D

pOpY
Yep you are good
 
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@mattytrog: thanks for the update regarding the strap.
Any chance to get an schematic & files for trinket because i have the switch opened right now :D
I can test the new feature.
 

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OK... v0.9.4 coming tomorrow. Ran out of time tonight.

Changelog...

  • Very nasty bug killed that would completely lock the console during boot if using Hekate CFW options. This is to do with the BLZ graphic I placed in. Therefore, if you are using the onboard graphic (oem style), you may have noticed a problem. This is fixed. Memory was getting overwritten and... yep. would lock it solid. Something I should have checked more thoroughly. But I didn`t. Won`t be making that mistake again...
  • New strap support code to prevent RCM accidents. Battery drain is TRUELY A THING FROM THE PAST (as long as you have the easy to fit strap connected that is... ;) )
  • Removed mode pin from internal modchips. Nobody used it anyway. You can still change mode for now by changing the not-yet-posted offsets. Dongles are unaffected.
  • ***WIP In 0.9.5, combined mode / payload selector coming in one pin/pad
Thats all for now folks.
Team Twat - Rocking your Amiga in 1987 and beyond!
 
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OK... Graphics updated for new strap. In brown in OP. Zoom in as usual.

Nice and easy testpoint there.

Next... Simple-UF2 UF2s updating.
 
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OK... Graphics updated for new strap. In brown in OP. Zoom in as usual.

Nice and easy testpoint there.

Next... Simple-UF2 UF2s updating.

Installed the new strap and 0.94, all is working fine after a wuick test.
When ill disconnect usb the payload is pushed ans started :D
I have now disabled autoRCM and my switch always goes into rcm (thanks because of the rcm & vol+ strap) and your hard work!
Using SX OS payload and now everytime the payload gets started the boot menu comes up (custom fw or orig fw).
I'll think this has todo with disable autoRCM.
Is it possible always start custom FW (SX OS) without the need to press on touch?

Thanks a lot again for your efforts.
Really nice!

pOpY
 

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Installed the new strap and 0.94, all is working fine after a wuick test.
When ill disconnect usb the payload is pushed ans started :D
I have now disabled autoRCM and my switch always goes into rcm (thanks because of the rcm & vol+ strap) and your hard work!
Using SX OS payload and now everytime the payload gets started the boot menu comes up (custom fw or orig fw).
I'll think this has todo with disable autoRCM.
Is it possible always start custom FW (SX OS) without the need to press on touch?

Thanks a lot again for your efforts.
Really nice!

pOpY
I`m not entirely sure about that. I`ll check. Be right back.
 

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I`m not entirely sure about that. I`ll check. Be right back.
ok, thanks.

I think i'll know why:
Normally, with the SX PRO Dongle, when you press VOL+ & RCM pin and leave vol+ pressed you'll get into SX OS Boot Menu.

Maybe the Vol+ strap is hold LOW too long and SX OS is thinking we want to get into boot menu?

pOpY
 

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ok, thanks.

I think i'll know why:
Normally, with the SX PRO Dongle, when you press VOL+ & RCM pin and leave vol+ pressed you'll get into SX OS Boot Menu.

Maybe the Vol+ strap is hold LOW too long and SX OS is thinking we want to get into boot menu?

pOpY
I`ve just tested. It is booting staight away with no menu.

Try this:
Run Rajkosto`s Briccmii payload and check your cust_data is correct.
 

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All Pubkeys & BCT are correct (= UNBRICC), do you have briccme = autoRCM enabled thus booting always into SX OS?
Of course not ;)

Yes it will say UNBRICCed... Its the bit after the UNBRICCD. cust_data correct? Try briccing and unbriccing.
 

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