Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

Dagor · Sep 19, 2018

I've just followed Method 1 to install a trinket

It works, I had to reopen the case three times to adjust the bending of the metal cover, otherwise the switch showed error yielding to a reboot - I think the cover produced shorts on the trinket when touching the solder spots. I covered the trinket with kapton and also secured it that way.
I used AWG30, because I had no access to 40 wire.

1. Be careful to use the "upper" side of the new 3.3V spot.
My first attempt was to solder the wire to the "lower" side of the capacitor for 3.3V, which yielded in no power to the trinket. I simply didn't follow the picture guide correctly.
Sadly, when I used a multi meter to confirm I need to use the "upper" side of that tiny capacitor, two bzzzrt noises and tiny bit of smoke occurred. I guess the multi meter probe was too fat and touched two components. The other probe was touching ground. Luckily, the switch works just fine - maybe down the road the damage will show. Not sure what exactly happened, I was trying to be as careful as possible.

2. The ground test pad is not cooperating nicely
Also, the ground testpad really didn't want to accept my solder. I used flux and around 320°C and it took me some tries alternating between flux, cleaning and soldering to get it to stick.

3. Be careful with the screws
The screws of the switch are really, really soft. You need perfectly fitting screwdrivers. On one of the screws for the joycon rails Nintendo used too much locktite and I couldn't loosen it. I had to resort to other means to open the backcover, because that screw has no more threads.

But now it all works. I can press the reset button through the casing. Some minor (or hidden major) damage along the way. Not recommended for newbies or reckless newbies (like me)

evilsperm · Sep 19, 2018

Dagor said:
I've just followed Method 1 to install a trinket

It works, I had to reopen the case three times to adjust the bending of the metal cover, otherwise the switch showed error yielding to a reboot - I think the cover produced shorts on the trinket when touching the solder spots. I covered the trinket with kapton and also secured it that way.
I used AWG30, because I had no access to 40 wire.

1. Be careful to use the "upper" side of the new 3.3V spot.
My first attempt was to solder the wire to the "lower" side of the capacitor for 3.3V, which yielded in no power to the trinket. I simply didn't follow the picture guide correctly.
Sadly, when I used a multi meter to confirm I need to use the "upper" side of that tiny capacitor, two bzzzrt noises and tiny bit of smoke occurred. I guess the multi meter probe was too fat and touched two components. The other probe was touching ground. Luckily, the switch works just fine - maybe down the road the damage will show. Not sure what exactly happened, I was trying to be as careful as possible.

2. The ground test pad is not cooperating nicely
Also, the ground testpad really didn't want to accept my solder. I used flux and around 320°C and it took me some tries alternating between flux, cleaning and soldering to get it to stick.

3. Be careful with the screws
The screws of the switch are really, really soft. You need perfectly fitting screwdrivers. On one of the screws for the joycon rails Nintendo used too much locktite and I couldn't loosen it. I had to resort to other means to open the backcover, because that screw has no more threads.

But now it all works. I can press the reset button through the casing. Some minor (or hidden major) damage along the way. Not recommended for newbies or reckless newbies (like me)

I can't stress enough to not use those caps for power...
On top of that you have def burnt your charge controller and it's only a matter of time before it shows. I will give it a week or less before you can no longer even turn your switch on

I watched a friend on video burn his switch up this same exact way but he accidentally touched the 5v to the shield with meter leads set in cont mode.
Switched worked for about a week than started to show the signs the charge ic was going bad until one day it only went to the Nintendo logo and reboots.
I also had this same issue if you look it up in a thread where a power outlet fried one of my switches.

mattytrog · Sep 19, 2018

evilsperm said:
I can't stress enough to not use those caps for power...

Which caps was he using for power?

metaljay · Sep 19, 2018

evilsperm said:
I can't stress enough to not use those caps for power...
On top of that you have def burnt your charge controller and it's only a matter of time before it shows. I will give it a week or less before you can no longer even turn your switch on
I watched a friend on video burn his switch up this same exact way but he accidentally touched the 5v to the shield with meter leads set in cont mode.
Switched worked for about a week than started to show the signs the charge ic was going bad until one day it only went to the Nintendo logo and reboots.
I also had this same issue if you look it up in a thread where a power outlet fried one of my switches.

Is your recommendation to not use the “always on” points and use “upon boot” points on the rear of the nand board?

mattytrog · Sep 19, 2018

Dagor said:
I've just followed Method 1 to install a trinket

It works, I had to reopen the case three times to adjust the bending of the metal cover, otherwise the switch showed error yielding to a reboot - I think the cover produced shorts on the trinket when touching the solder spots. I covered the trinket with kapton and also secured it that way.
I used AWG30, because I had no access to 40 wire.

1. Be careful to use the "upper" side of the new 3.3V spot.
My first attempt was to solder the wire to the "lower" side of the capacitor for 3.3V, which yielded in no power to the trinket. I simply didn't follow the picture guide correctly.
Sadly, when I used a multi meter to confirm I need to use the "upper" side of that tiny capacitor, two bzzzrt noises and tiny bit of smoke occurred. I guess the multi meter probe was too fat and touched two components. The other probe was touching ground. Luckily, the switch works just fine - maybe down the road the damage will show. Not sure what exactly happened, I was trying to be as careful as possible.

Where did the tiny bit of smoke come from? If it was from the M92T36, I wouldn`t bet on it lasting too long. There are various "inputs" in the T36 that are selected by a device within the chip called a "power detector". Could have been one of the FETs within this.

Could have been from one of those ceramic caps. Doubtful though.

The smoothing cap on Pin 6 on M92T36 is perfectly safe, AS LONG AS IT IS SOLDERED CORRECTLY. It is a direct trace to the new point on the NAND daughterboard. Continuity checks confirm this. All points (the new 3v NAND point, pin 6 capacitor and the testpoint on the back of the board) are all the same trace.

But on account of it being too difficult, I think I will change the graphics. Just be so careful with that BTB connector.

Resoldering a QFN (M92T36) is difficult enough without having to solder a new BTB (NAND) connector (0.4mm pitch between pins, 0.6mm between rows) or even that BGA NAND chip.

There are pitfalls with all points.

The cap - Could pop the M92T36 USB power controller, or the battery PMIC
Point on NAND - Fook the NAND daughterboard or stacking connector
Remove board - Could rip ribbon cables or break a latch on one of those FPCs

Alternatives are method 3 with or without straps as evilsperm said. You could put a reed switch in, or desolder the EN leg on the LDO regulator and find a 1.8v point to power the chip on that way.

na0339 · Sep 19, 2018

I'm on 6.0 and can't get ReiNX (9/11 nightly) or RajNX (0.7.5.1) to boot with SwitchME. Anyone else running into this? Someone in one of those CFW threads mentioned updated payloads. FWIW, my (unlicensed) SX OS 1.9 boots fine.

mattytrog · Sep 19, 2018

na0339 said:
I'm on 6.0 and can't get ReiNX (9/11 nightly) or RajNX (0.7.5.1) to boot with SwitchME. Anyone else running into this? Someone in one of those CFW threads mentioned updated payloads. FWIW, my (unlicensed) SX OS 1.9 boots fine.

If it was booting OK prior to installing 6.0, then that is an issue for the ReiNX / RajNX thread. Having said that, my payloads may need updating. Check back in a bit

mattytrog · Sep 19, 2018

Updated Method 1 pics so "hopefully" fewer dead switches.

Just remember, the NAND is the most important part of the switch. The keys, PRODINFO etc etc is stored on there. Don`t fuck it up!

It is easier to solder, but if you do something wrong, ie don`t seat it back in the BTB connector right, leave a bit of crap in there, or otherwise damage the pins or the mating faces of that BTB stacking connector, you WILL need a professional to repair. They are a f**king nightmare to hand solder. Doable though.

I have seen many many damaged stacking connectors over the years (not just on the switch) and just finding the right one is hard. Also, if you do somehow damage the daughterboard beyond repair, it will need replacing by either buying a new NAND or getting the BGA package off it and on to another daughterboard.

Back up NAND before you even disconnect it.

Am I scaremongering? Am I heck.

The actual point is easier than pin 6 on M92T36, so if you are sober and not full of caffeine, this can save you a lot of stress and it may save your M92T36 too. CHOOSE CAREFULLY!!!!!!!

It`s a bit like asking if you want to step in dog shit or cow shit really...

kuze · Sep 20, 2018

OK so I'm attempting a SwitchMe install with the new '4 wire on at powerup' method.

AutoRCM is already enabled on my Switch and I did not pre-flash the SwitchMe prior to installing.

It seems that the SwitchMe prevents RCM from starting so I can inject a payload and get to the home screen to flash the modchip.

Is that the case or did I do something wrong in my install? When I hook it up to my PC I get a message that it is an unknown USB device.

Is the only way to proceed to undo the install, flash the SwitchMe, then reinstall?

Or is there a better workaround I could use? (I tried holding down RESET on the SwitchMe, but still no go...)? I mostly have the thing put back together so it would kinda suck to have to take back apart.

Dagor · Sep 20, 2018

mattytrog said:
Where did the tiny bit of smoke come from? If it was from the M92T36, I wouldn`t bet on it lasting too long. There are various "inputs" in the T36 that are selected by a device within the chip called a "power detector". Could have been one of the FETs within this.

Could have been from one of those ceramic caps. Doubtful though.

The smoothing cap on Pin 6 on M92T36 is perfectly safe, AS LONG AS IT IS SOLDERED CORRECTLY. It is a direct trace to the new point on the NAND daughterboard. Continuity checks confirm this. All points (the new 3v NAND point, pin 6 capacitor and the testpoint on the back of the board) are all the same trace.

But on account of it being too difficult, I think I will change the graphics. Just be so careful with that BTB connector.

Resoldering a QFN (M92T36) is difficult enough without having to solder a new BTB (NAND) connector (0.4mm pitch between pins, 0.6mm between rows) or even that BGA NAND chip.

There are pitfalls with all points.

The cap - Could pop the M92T36 USB power controller, or the battery PMIC
Point on NAND - Fook the NAND daughterboard or stacking connector
Remove board - Could rip ribbon cables or break a latch on one of those FPCs

Alternatives are method 3 with or without straps as evilsperm said. You could put a reed switch in, or desolder the EN leg on the LDO regulator and find a 1.8v point to power the chip on that way.

The tiny tiny bit of smoke came directly, or very closely from the cap. I'm pretty sure I haven't touched the IC - I wasn't that clumsy. So far the Switch charges and de-charges properly. If the IC does fail, have I fried my switch for good? I'm just not doing a full NAND raw backup to put it back into a new switch should this rne really leave me.

My battery was disconnected when I did the solder job.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

evilsperm said:
I can't stress enough to not use those caps for power...
On top of that you have def burnt your charge controller and it's only a matter of time before it shows. I will give it a week or less before you can no longer even turn your switch on
I watched a friend on video burn his switch up this same exact way but he accidentally touched the 5v to the shield with meter leads set in cont mode.
Switched worked for about a week than started to show the signs the charge ic was going bad until one day it only went to the Nintendo logo and reboots.
I also had this same issue if you look it up in a thread where a power outlet fried one of my switches.

Was your friend able to salvage the switch or is it gone?

mattytrog · Sep 20, 2018

kuze said:
OK so I'm attempting a SwitchMe install with the new '4 wire on at powerup' method.

AutoRCM is already enabled on my Switch and I did not pre-flash the SwitchMe prior to installing.

It seems that the SwitchMe prevents RCM from starting so I can inject a payload and get to the home screen to flash the modchip.

Is that the case or did I do something wrong in my install? When I hook it up to my PC I get a message that it is an unknown USB device.

Is the only way to proceed to undo the install, flash the SwitchMe, then reinstall?

Or is there a better workaround I could use? (I tried holding down RESET on the SwitchMe, but still no go...)? I mostly have the thing put back together so it would kinda suck to have to take back apart.

If you have your switch turned off, connect your console to PC usb, you should be in RCM and use Tegra RCM smash to get you booted up. Once booted, you can disconnect, double press reset and reconnect as per OP.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Dagor said:
The tiny tiny bit of smoke came directly, or very closely from the cap. I'm pretty sure I haven't touched the IC - I wasn't that clumsy. So far the Switch charges and de-charges properly. If the IC does fail, have I fried my switch for good? I'm just not doing a full NAND raw backup to put it back into a new switch should this rne really leave me.

My battery was disconnected when I did the solder job.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Was your friend able to salvage the switch or is it gone?

The M92T36 isn't that robust. Any magic smoke would have come from a surrounding component (used for bias / smoothing) in my opinion.

If it was from the M92T36, it would have been dead by now. I'm confident of that. Though I have seen them fail later.

See how it goes. If it starts freezing or crashing but still charging etc, then you would have popped one of those caps possibly. Replace them if you are having problems.

evilsperm · Sep 20, 2018

kuze said:
OK so I'm attempting a SwitchMe install with the new '4 wire on at powerup' method.

AutoRCM is already enabled on my Switch and I did not pre-flash the SwitchMe prior to installing.

It seems that the SwitchMe prevents RCM from starting so I can inject a payload and get to the home screen to flash the modchip.

Is that the case or did I do something wrong in my install? When I hook it up to my PC I get a message that it is an unknown USB device.

Is the only way to proceed to undo the install, flash the SwitchMe, then reinstall?

Or is there a better workaround I could use? (I tried holding down RESET on the SwitchMe, but still no go...)? I mostly have the thing put back together so it would kinda suck to have to take back apart.

Mattytrog said it best, just boot the console the way you have been booting it before to get to the OS. Than you can plug it in and it will show the bootloader instantly because it hasnt been flashed with a payload yet.
Remember we dont sell these as modchips so the only thing they are flashed with is the low level bootloder (sam-ba)

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Dagor said:
The tiny tiny bit of smoke came directly, or very closely from the cap. I'm pretty sure I haven't touched the IC - I wasn't that clumsy. So far the Switch charges and de-charges properly. If the IC does fail, have I fried my switch for good? I'm just not doing a full NAND raw backup to put it back into a new switch should this rne really leave me.

My battery was disconnected when I did the solder job.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Was your friend able to salvage the switch or is it gone?

Only way he got it back up was a new IC.
Also you can not take your rw nand fomr this console and flash it on another...
That will insta brick the new console.

kuze · Sep 20, 2018

mattytrog said:
If you have your switch turned off, connect your console to PC usb, you should be in RCM and use Tegra RCM smash to get you booted up. Once booted, you can disconnect, double press reset and reconnect as per OP.

evilsperm said:
Mattytrog said it best, just boot the console the way you have been booting it before to get to the OS. Than you can plug it in and it will show the bootloader instantly because it hasnt been flashed with a payload yet.
Remember we dont sell these as modchips so the only thing they are flashed with is the low level bootloder (sam-ba)

This doesn't work with software AutoRCM, at least in my case with the brand new SwitchMe. The console may have booted into RCM, but my PC could not detect RCM nor the SwitchMe - from the errors I was getting in Windows, the SwitchMe seemed to be in conflict with the Switch RCM so neither worked properly.

What I ended up doing to get around this was to desolder the D+ and D- wires connected to the SwitchMe, then I was able to boot into RCM, flash a payload and make it to the home screen.

Once at the home screen, I re-connected D+ and D- then I was able to flash the SwitchMe successfully.

Might be worth adding to the notes in the OP, or someone else can perhaps confirm whether they have had the same problem.

Anyhow now that it's sorted out, I'm very happy with the product!

I used the new eMMC 3v point by the way. The entire eMMC module was glued down to the board, so it wasn't the easiest to remove, but still probably better than using the capacitor 3v source.

na0339 · Sep 20, 2018

My SwitchMe has stopped automatically injecting the payload in RCM. I'm able to inject manually by pressing the board's button, but what can I do to get back to automatic injection?

Edit: apparently this is a limitation of the old 4-wire "always on" method. Use the new 4-wire "on at power-up" method to avoid this headache.

darkovo · Sep 20, 2018

I installed the Switchme today, just trying to get it detected by the laptop but a drive doesn't come up.
The switchme's Data LED is just flashing, what does that mean?

I did the latest 4-wire install and 3.3V to NAND point, Switch turns on fine etc.

(already posted in the 'Team Rebug SwitchMe UP - Modchip installed and working' thread but hoping this may get more views/replies).
Thanks

mattytrog · Sep 20, 2018

kuze said:
This doesn't work with software AutoRCM, at least in my case with the brand new SwitchMe. The console may have booted into RCM, but my PC could not detect RCM nor the SwitchMe - from the errors I was getting in Windows, the SwitchMe seemed to be in conflict with the Switch RCM so neither worked properly.

What I ended up doing to get around this was to desolder the D+ and D- wires connected to the SwitchMe, then I was able to boot into RCM, flash a payload and make it to the home screen.

Once at the home screen, I re-connected D+ and D- then I was able to flash the SwitchMe successfully.

Might be worth adding to the notes in the OP, or someone else can perhaps confirm whether they have had the same problem.

Anyhow now that it's sorted out, I'm very happy with the product!

I used the new eMMC 3v point by the way. The entire eMMC module was glued down to the board, so it wasn't the easiest to remove, but still probably better than using the capacitor 3v source.

darkovo said:
I installed the Switchme today, just trying to get it detected by the laptop but a drive doesn't come up.
The switchme's Data LED is just flashing, what does that mean?

I did the latest 4-wire install and 3.3V to NAND point, Switch turns on fine etc.

(already posted in the 'Team Rebug SwitchMe UP - Modchip installed and working' thread but hoping this may get more views/replies).
Thanks

OK...
Boot up into normal switch os
Disconnect everything from USB
double-press reset on Switchme
plug into USB. REBUGBOOT should pop right up.
Drag and drop your chosen UF2 to this drive
Turn off switch
Get into RCM
Payload should send automatically.
Set up autoRCM.

Done.

darkovo · Sep 20, 2018

mattytrog said:
OK...
Boot up into normal switch os
Disconnect everything from USB
double-press reset on Switchme
plug into USB. REBUGBOOT should pop right up.
Drag and drop your chosen UF2 to this drive
Turn off switch
Get into RCM
Payload should send automatically.
Set up autoRCM.

Done.

Thanks for the quick reply, unfortunately still nothing on the PC, no USB drive detected. I've tried all different techniques to try and get it detected.
I assume the Ground and Live must be solderered correctly, maybe D- or D+ arent, before I try resoldering these 2 I was hoping someone may know if the Switchme Data LED always flashes, its constantly flashing on mine as soon as it gets power, is this normal?

mattytrog · Sep 20, 2018

darkovo said:
Thanks for the quick reply, unfortunately still nothing on the PC, no USB drive detected. I've tried all different techniques to try and get it detected.
I assume the Ground and Live must be solderered correctly, maybe D- or D+ arent, before I try resoldering these 2 I was hoping someone may know if the Switchme Data LED always flashes, its constantly flashing on mine as soon as it gets power, is this normal?

Yes normal. Double-check your wiring. Use a KNOWN GOOD DATA usb cable. Lots of folk have been using those shyte "charge only" ones.

darkovo · Sep 20, 2018

mattytrog said:
Yes normal. Double-check your wiring. Use a KNOWN GOOD DATA usb cable. Lots of folk have been using those shyte "charge only" ones.

OK will do, I got a brand new Anker, Windows 10 did detect a Nintendo Switch when I 1st connected it (just not the Switchme). It's the first mod on the Switch and also 1st time connecting to this laptop.
So the Data LED always flashes to show its Live?

mattytrog · Sep 20, 2018

darkovo said:
OK will do, I got a brand new Anker, Windows 10 did detect a Nintendo Switch when I 1st connected it (just not the Switchme). It's the first mod on the Switch and also 1st time connecting to this laptop.
So the Data LED always flashes to show its Live?

Unsure. If its detecting the switch, then thats all good. You need to disconnect it then and press-press reset. Then reconnect. You may have to adjust your timing of the presses.

You will know when you hit it right, the REBUGBOOT will pop straight up as a flash-drive.

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