Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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    Trinket equivalent.png
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Last edited by mattytrog,

mattytrog

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Ok, measured for continuity bottom side of the cap to, I think you meant the pin on the ic going to the top side of the cap right? There is no continuity. I am not sure I can repair this, since i dont have the proper tools for such small components. Looks I am out of luck.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------


Ok thanks Matty, Canna. Will reflow the cap and let you know the outcome.

Will be fine. I`ve just repaired a switch with both of those 0402 size caps missing, and the 0201 sized cap in the row of 4 above it. Don`t attempt THAT one when full of caffeine and shaking!

The values of the capacitors are (the upper one) - 4.7uF 6.3v 0402 MLCC cap
the lower one (circled) is 2.2uF 6.3v 0402 MLCC

You will probably get away with 4v caps. But the bigger the better.
 
Last edited by mattytrog,
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Kobazzoni

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No continuity not connection reflow like we said and ur going to do. take ya time budd.
It may indeed be dry joints, because i used wick to remove solder after i bridged the two components, but didnt cut in between with a tool or something. I did think about doing it tho.
 
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morganno

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Can you post your openocd.cfg? Image of my backup uploading now. This is for pi2 btw. If you want to change, you need to change in openOCD.cfg
Write with disk imager... Download here > coming...

I thank you very much

I use a raspberry PI 3 and I use win32diskimager.

I block at the level of the file opneocd.cfg I did as in the picture as an attachment.

I connect my trinket rience pass?

a question is necessary to connect this pin (nRst pin 18 Pi to Rst pin 26 trinket) and I connect little GND and 3v on the PI or I little use the USB port for the power supply.

Capture1.JPG Capture.JPG Capture3.JPG
 

mattytrog

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I thank you very much

I use a raspberry PI 3 and I use win32diskimager.

I block at the level of the file opneocd.cfg I did as in the picture as an attachment.

I connect my trinket rience pass?

a question is necessary to connect this pin (nRst pin 18 Pi to Rst pin 26 trinket) and I connect little GND and 3v on the PI or I little use the USB port for the power supply.

View attachment 141092 View attachment 141093 View attachment 141094

Here is OpenOCD image

https://drive.google.com/open?id=18IdiYcu-H3hP_tZqqTh_gy4-Yxs9osdX

Vous pouvez m'envoyer un message directement si vous préférez en français.
 
Last edited by mattytrog,

morganno

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Here is OpenOCD image

https://drive.google.com/open?id=18IdiYcu-H3hP_tZqqTh_gy4-Yxs9osdX

Vous pouvez m'envoyer un message directement si vous préférez en français.

Merci de beaucoup de ta réponse. je vais testé ton image disk de suite, elle est bien compatible Pi 3.
franchement félicitation à vous tous.

juste un petit truc tu ne ma pas confirmer si le nRst du Pi il est obligatoire. sur le tuto il mette 3 fils? tu as dit sur un autre message que javais besoin que 2 fils et d'un condo?
merci par avance.
 

mattytrog

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salut! Si nous parlons français, nous devrions le faire en message privé.
Seuls deux câbles sont requis

SWCLK et SWDIO

Translated... If speaking French we should do it in private. Wires are required only 2.
 

Canna

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salut! Si nous parlons français, nous devrions le faire en message privé.
Seuls deux câbles sont requis

SWCLK et SWDIO

Translated... If speaking French we should do it in private. Wires are required only 2.
Get a room use 2 :wub::rofl2:
 

mattytrog

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Lol. OP updated with a new file for ItsyBitsy M0 users. Can port to Gemma or Trinket if people want. Two minute job.
 

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View attachment 141079

Check this cap here in red, use a multimeter for continuity connect to the bottom of cap towards usb connector, and the pin on the ic connected to the trace under the cap

Looking at that picture tho it looks like you used a tool to cut and you may of grounded your trace or cap

Hello, everyone.
I wanna ask about this cap. Why is it needed? I accidentally broke it off, but my switch works and charges fine without it.
 

azxc

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Lol. OP updated with a new file for ItsyBitsy M0 users. Can port to Gemma or Trinket if people want. Two minute job.

Thank you for the ItsyBitsy trinket update! :) I was afraid you abandoned it and i almost bought the regular trinket m0...saved me like 20 bucks!

I am having similar issues as others with the 3v point, i can do micro soldering but that's a bit too micro...unless i buy a really expensive electron microscope

is there any alternative to that 3v that doesn't bork with usb devices? I completely took the metal shielding out of my console to show off the electronics for my clear housing, so i assume i won't need any shielding modifications

EDIT: Also I've realized that our trinkets are sitting on top of the ram heat sink...I wonder if there will ever be any temperature problems with the trinket or ram chips.
 
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mattytrog

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Thanks for the ItsyBitsy trinket update! :) I was afraid you abandoned it and i almost bought the regular trinket m0...saved me like 20 bucks!

I am having similar issues as others with the 3v point, i can do micro soldering but that's a bit too micro...unless i buy a really expensive electron microscope

is there any alternative to that 3v that doesn't bork with usb devices? I completely took the metal shielding out of my console to show off the electronics for my clear housing, so i assume i won't need any shielding modifications

Method 3 mate.

Or remove motherboard and go from a testpoint. Will have a probe around later to see if I can find any more safe points. I may have done, but I`ve forgotten them or not ducumented them.

Fix the wire first before you solder it.

It isn`t a heatsink. It is a shield. The ram chips are not in contact with it. Take it off and take a look!

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Thanks for answer, I understand correctly that power on this cap on only when switch on?

Correct.
 
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azxc

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so i borked the 3v point on the originial cap and still tried sticking solder to it, but ended up borking the cap right above it completely off the board. Next time i know how not to bork the 3v point, and if it is borked, properly identify the borked and not continue trying to stick wires to it.

The 3v line on the original cap still seems to be making contact with the M92T36 through multi meter testing. I'm thinking about trying to solder the 3v directly to the M92T36.

I mean, worst case scenario i will buy a new switch but everything (charging, devices, etc) seems to be working as intended. If i notice any issues i can probably get the cap that flew off back on the board, by running some wires to the ripped pads.

Where are these test points behind the motherboard? i cannot use the original 3v point anymore, and i prefer a slightly larger pad to work with than directly to the M92T36. I can't use method 3 because the cap for point "9" on the ItsyBitsy flew off the switch mobo.



And indeed, it appears it is just a shielding over the ram chips!

Thanks
 
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Here's my install so far! Just need a way to get 3V :) you can see where i borked a cap and the original 3v line guys...


IMG_20180826_115245.png
IMG_20180826_115732.jpg
 
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azxc

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Ended up soldering the 3v line directly to the M92T36 and it appears to be working! :)

when i'm in RCM the trinket just slowly flashes a green LED, and pressing reset on it does nothing but light up both LEDs and then go back to the flashing green LED.

when i boot normally, it boots normally and has the flashing green LED while the switch is being played. I have the files on my SD card, 001.dat etc

could i have not flashed it correctly?

EDIT: plugging in the trinket to PC seems to not show up anything anymore... perhaps it's an issue with the wiring on the usb data lines
 
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morganno

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salut! Si nous parlons français, nous devrions le faire en message privé.
Seuls deux câbles sont requis

SWCLK et SWDIO

Translated... If speaking French we should do it in private. Wires are required only 2.

ok je veux bien mais je n'ai pas trouvé option PV dans ce forum ?

ok I want but I have not found the private message option in this forum?
 
Last edited by morganno,

mattytrog

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Ended up soldering the 3v line directly to the M92T36 and it appears to be working! :)

when i'm in RCM the trinket just slowly flashes a green LED, and pressing reset on it does nothing but light up both LEDs and then go back to the flashing green LED.

when i boot normally, it boots normally and has the flashing green LED while the switch is being played. I have the files on my SD card, 001.dat etc

could i have not flashed it correctly?

EDIT: plugging in the trinket to PC seems to not show up anything anymore... perhaps it's an issue with the wiring on the usb data lines

Have you been into ITSYBOOT and put the UF2 files on there?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

ok je veux bien mais je n'ai pas trouvé option PV dans ce forum ?

ok I want but I have not found the private message option in this forum?

The envelope at the top
 

azxc

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Have you been into ITSYBOOT and put the UF2 files on there?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------



The envelope at the top

I plugged trinket in before installing it, and deleted everything on it. then dragged and droped the three files from the zip into the itsyboot storage device.
 

mattytrog

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I plugged trinket in before installing it, and deleted everything on it. then dragged and droped the three files from the zip into the itsyboot storage device.
Is it a trinket or itsy? If trinket, I haven`t uploaded a trinket version yet. So chances are it will not work.
 

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Itsy, i meant. It won't show up now after it's installed in the switch as a usb device. i have the switch powered off.
 

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