Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[64Dp128k]

I`d remove the green LED. Clip it off, stratch it off. And the resistor next to it.

OK so i tested, the behavior is only when the switch is completely turned off and then inserted into the dock, the following occurs:

1. Cannot turn on from joypad, or when hdmi detects signal
2. Can turn on from power button, switch boots but no display on TV and blinking led. If I take out of dock and put back in tv image is displayed. I still have to unplug and re plug in power on dock to stop blinking led.
3. It always works from sleep or on power on state when inserting into dock.

Any way around the cold start dock issue by programming the trinket?

Thanks

 

[subcon959]

OK so i tested, the behavior is only when the switch is completely turned off and then inserted into the dock, the following occurs:

1. Cannot turn on from joypad, or when hdmi detects signal
2. Can turn on from power button, switch boots but no display on TV and blinking led. If I take out of dock and put back in tv image is displayed. I still have to unplug and re plug in power on dock to stop blinking led.
3. It always works from sleep or on power on state when inserting into dock.

Any way around the cold start dock issue by programming the trinket?

Thanks

Does it all work as intended if you take the Switch off the dock and power on, then replace it in dock?

 

[64Dp128k]

Yes as mentioned. Just from cold start no when docked.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Is not really an issue, I know I'm nit picking would be good if that would work also

 

[subcon959]

I don't use a dock, but sometimes I do try to turn the Switch on while it's plugged into the charger and nothing happens. It's not until I unplug the charger that I'm able to start the boot sequence. So maybe this is just something we have to deal with due to hijacking the USB port.

 

[64Dp128k]

I don't use a dock, but sometimes I do try to turn the Switch on while it's plugged into the charger and nothing happens. It's not until I unplug the charger that I'm able to start the boot sequence. So maybe this is just something we have to deal with due to hijacking the USB port.

Ye probably that's what I'm thinking if there'sa way of programming the trinket to delay payload when usb is plugged in maybe it could work.

I don't use a dock, but sometimes I do try to turn the Switch on while it's plugged into the charger and nothing happens. It's not until I unplug the charger that I'm able to start the boot sequence. So maybe this is just something we have to deal with due to hijacking the USB port.

Maybe there is a way to get the trinket to fix this behaviour @mattytrog any ideas

 

[mooglazer]

./

 

[mooglazer]

I don't use a dock, but sometimes I do try to turn the Switch on while it's plugged into the charger and nothing happens. It's not until I unplug the charger that I'm able to start the boot sequence. So maybe this is just something we have to deal with due to hijacking the USB port.

I ran into this yesterday, gave me a good scare.

I usually unplug everything from the switch, get everything started and then dock, etc. Didn't bother me having to do it this way, given the convenience of not having an external dongle.

 

[mattytrog]

I ran into this yesterday, gave me a good scare.

I usually unplug everything from the switch, get everything started and then dock, etc. Didn't bother me having to do it this way, given the convenience of not having an external dongle.

Yes. You will need to unplug the charger to begin boot. Unless you are not autoRCM of course...

 

[iriez]

Just a note to all trinket installers out there as I discovered this issue on my first install...then completely forgot about it and got flabbergasted on my second install as to why the trinket kept being non-functioanl after putting the case back on.


If you boot to horizon, connect usb, then leave usb connected while hitting power off, it will render the trinket non-functional until you press the reset button (or tap rst wire to gnd). I should note I've used method 1 from here and Quantum's install method and both have this same complication.

Im not sure how many times i got my switch closed, then suddenly it "stops working" forcing me to reopen everything, check wires, etc....but it wasted many hours of my patience. If only my memory was better

 

[mikeleuskaldunak]

..

 

[mooglazer]

If you boot to horizon, connect usb, then leave usb connected while hitting power off, it will render the trinket non-functional until you press the reset button (or tap rst wire to gnd). I should note I've used method 1 from here

I think I actually ran into this last night as well.

 

[mattytrog]

Just a note to all trinket installers out there as I discovered this issue on my first install...then completely forgot about it and got flabbergasted on my second install as to why the trinket kept being non-functioanl after putting the case back on.


If you boot to horizon, connect usb, then leave usb connected while hitting power off, it will render the trinket non-functional until you press the reset button (or tap rst wire to gnd). I should note I've used method 1 from here and Quantum's install method and both have this same complication.

Im not sure how many times i got my switch closed, then suddenly it "stops working" forcing me to reopen everything, check wires, etc....but it wasted many hours of my patience. If only my memory was better

This will happen. Because something is already talking to USB, so the trinket can`t get a word in. Once you unplug, the trinket needs to know it can "talk", so press reset.

There is no getting around this.

This has been mentioned many times throughout the thread.

Same as if anything is plugged in to the switch before power on and you are using method 1. It will stay in RCM until you press reset to send the payload.

OP updated... Should be obvious as well as covered in this thread elsewhere.

EDIT: Shit... quoted myself

 

[64Dp128k]

This will happen. Because something is already talking to USB, so the trinket can`t get a word in. Once you unplug, the trinket needs to know it can "talk", so press reset.

There is no getting around this.

This has been mentioned many times throughout the thread.

Same as if anything is plugged in to the switch before power on and you are using method 1. It will stay in RCM until you press reset to send the payload.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------



OP updated... Should be obvious as well as covered in this thread elsewhere.

EDIT: Shit... quoted myself

Any way for cold boot when docked without blinking light?

 

[mattytrog]

Any way for cold boot when docked without blinking light?

Can`t cold-boot while in the dock. Forget it. To do that would require dock modification.

Saying that though, the trinket may have "beat the dock to it" a couple of times...

 

[64Dp128k]

Can`t cold-boot while in the dock. Forget it. To do that would require dock modification.

Saying that though, the trinket may have "beat the dock to it" a couple of times...

I don't mind modifying my dock lol - new guide? the drinks on me . Sure you understand many family members using it.

 

[mattytrog]

I don't mind modifying my dock lol - new guide? the drinks on me I sure you understand many family members using it.

Noooooooo... (This isn`t aimed at anyone in particular) If it is too hard to press power to boot up (therefore let trinket push payload) before plugging it in to the dock, then maybe they should go back to stock.

All people have to do is just press power to boot before dock insertion. This mod hijacks the USB. The dock shouts louder than the trinket, so gets heard and overridden.

 

[64Dp128k]

granted, your absolutely right. Will end at that. thanks

 

[iriez]

This will happen. Because something is already talking to USB, so the trinket can`t get a word in. Once you unplug, the trinket needs to know it can "talk", so press reset.

There is no getting around this.

This has been mentioned many times throughout the thread.

Same as if anything is plugged in to the switch before power on and you are using method 1. It will stay in RCM until you press reset to send the payload.

OP updated... Should be obvious as well as covered in this thread elsewhere.

EDIT: Shit... quoted myself

Great, thank you! I thought I might try to reword your OP to make it a little more clear.

The nature of this modification is that, the trinket hijacks the USB port of the switch at boot-time, so the trinket can send the payload. If anything else is plugged in to USB, then this will override the trinket, making the trinket unable to send a payload...

So, the root of all troubleshooting with all methods, is:

1) Make sure nothing is plugged into USB
2) Ensure trinket light is OUT - tap reset on the trinket (either flex back cover, press power button, short wire to the screw you have wired reset to, whatever).
3) If it then goes WHITE (method 1), then it cannot send the payload for whatever reason. Either you are booted into Horizon, or something is plugged into USB. The white LED means "I cannot send the payload - I am not in RCM".
4) Remember... UNPLUG USB, RESET TRINKET. Once trinket has done its business, the USB port is yours again.
5) If you power off from Horizon with usb plugged in, it will freeze the trinket requiring a reset. You might think that removing USB before your next boot should make things OK, but I assure you it is not.



So, I get from your perspective that stating quite clearly "make sure nothing is plugged in" would cover it, but I'll try to explain what that is not the case. These are troubleshooting steps for a general install. You can install, have everything work, put it all back together, play on your switch for days, weeks, months, whatever, and then the moment you power down with usb plugged in bam, its not going to work anymore until you reset the trinket. This is why it is essential to have a RST wire or the chip positioned in a way that you can depress the case/button.

Also, its OK to have usb plugged in post-install....so this will naturally happen to a lot of people, and if its not well documented it will cause a lot of confusion.

I do not know what the LED does in this situation for method 1, but I do know using quantum's install method I would get no LED activity (if I recall correctly) on power press when its frozen from powering down with usb connected.

I think its important to highlight the difference here between general installation troubleshooting and post-install troubleshooting. A good general thumb rule would be "if in doubt, RESET!" regardless of pre-post install troubleshooting.

Thanks for your constant contributions mattrytog!

 

[mikeleuskaldunak]

..

 

[mattytrog]

TX OS 1.4 UF2 files for method 3? Thanks a lot for all your hard work!

You get the TXOS files from TX. Not me. My files include the loader thats it.

You need the 1.4 "boot.dat" which goes on your SD card.