Help/Service Request: Unbrick HWFLY OLED chip

[Ka0tiK]

Hi folks,
I had a working HWFLY OLED which I used to do all my initial setups. I decided to update the firmware to increase capability (although I had no issues before) and now the Switch will no longer successfully boot with the HWFLY OLED. I opened the Switch and found it is blinking PURPLE and then RED - I am thinking the firmware if bricked as it was the last thing I did. I do not have the tools to unbrick/re-flash this myself.

Can anyone help with unbricking this if I send it out to you?

 

[gokuz]

How did you update?

 

[randy_w]

Red LED means bad connection. Can you check point A, C and D connection with multimeter?

 

[Ka0tiK]

How did you update?

I followed these set of instructions from github's hwfly-nx/hwfly-toolbox/releases:

Instructions:

1. place hwfly_toolbox.bin in sdcard:/bootloader/payloads
2. run hwfly_toolbox from hekate
3. update SD loader from menu
4. power off switch from menu
5. place firmware.bin and sdloader.enc from hwfly firmware into sdcard root
6. put SD in switch and power on while holding VOL+ (verify: modchip green light stays on)
7. run hwfly_toolbox from hekate again
8. update firmware from menu
9. reboot while holding VOL+ again
10. now all functions in hwfly_toolbox work upon next run

 

[Ka0tiK]

Red LED means bad connection. Can you check point A, C and D connection with multimeter?

I have checked that points A, C and D connections are good. Here are my diode readings from ribbon points to ground:

• Point A: 0.73
• Point C: 0.79
• Point D: 0.76

 

[gokuz]

I followed these set of instructions from github's hwfly-nx/hwfly-toolbox/releases:

Try the direct usb method instead.

 

[randy_w]

I have checked that points A, C and D connections are good. Here are my diode readings from ribbon points to ground:

• Point A: 0.73
• Point C: 0.79
• Point D: 0.76

that seems normal, yeah try re-flashing the chip with usb

 

[doom95]

run a diagnose with putty and send me the console output please

 

[Ka0tiK]

I tried connecting via USB - perhaps I'm doing something wrong as I was not able to connect.
Whether I have the battery plugged or not, I plug in the USB-C to my laptop but I do not see any COM device (I think I saw something like "APX", but I cannot recall now).

The console has been in this state for almost a week with each boot resulting the same. I gave up and put it aside for a full day.

Taking up doom95's help, today I plugged in via USB to see if I can run putty and dump the console output. I had noticed a sound and found the console booted to Hekate (without battery plugged). I powered it off, plugged the battery pack, and booted again - it worked. I have been having many successful boots since then. I have tried booting when the console is cold, hot, and with different pressure with the assumption there is a bad solder joint (even though I have already re-touched all the joints).

At this point, I am not able to reproduce the many-consecutive (and persistent) failures. I would say it was a result of capacitance between boots (i.e. I never let the console fully power off), but even that is a stretch. I honestly wish I knew what went wrong and how to avoid it again.

tldr; I am no longer having an issue and unable to reproduce it at this time

PS - thank you all for the support; I will update the subject I see I cannot edit the subject as CLOSED. I'm a long time member, but rarely post anything.

 

[estm13]

I tried connecting via USB - perhaps I'm doing something wrong as I was not able to connect.
Whether I have the battery plugged or not, I plug in the USB-C to my laptop but I do not see any COM device (I think I saw something like "APX", but I cannot recall now).

The console has been in this state for almost a week with each boot resulting the same. I gave up and put it aside for a full day.

Taking up doom95's help, today I plugged in via USB to see if I can run putty and dump the console output. I had noticed a sound and found the console booted to Hekate (without battery plugged). I powered it off, plugged the battery pack, and booted again - it worked. I have been having many successful boots since then. I have tried booting when the console is cold, hot, and with different pressure with the assumption there is a bad solder joint (even though I have already re-touched all the joints).

At this point, I am not able to reproduce the many-consecutive (and persistent) failures. I would say it was a result of capacitance between boots (i.e. I never let the console fully power off), but even that is a stretch. I honestly wish I knew what went wrong and how to avoid it again.

tldr; I am no longer having an issue and unable to reproduce it at this time

PS - thank you all for the support; I will update the subject I see I cannot edit the subject as CLOSED. I'm a long time member, but rarely post anything.

i think you used dat0 adapter and had a cool joint when console warm up

 

[Bubbles21]

can you share how to run putty and dump the console putput thing thank tou

 

[lagrave]

Hi folks,
I had a working HWFLY OLED which I used to do all my initial setups. I decided to update the firmware to increase capability (although I had no issues before) and now the Switch will no longer successfully boot with the HWFLY OLED. I opened the Switch and found it is blinking PURPLE and then RED - I am thinking the firmware if bricked as it was the last thing I did. I do not have the tools to unbrick/re-flash this myself.

Can anyone help with unbricking this if I send it out to you?

Hi. Did you solve your problem? Stucked at the same situation

 

[impeeza]

I tried connecting via USB - perhaps I'm doing something wrong as I was not able to connect.
Whether I have the battery plugged or not, I plug in the USB-C to my laptop but I do not see any COM device (I think I saw something like "APX", but I cannot recall now).

The console has been in this state for almost a week with each boot resulting the same. I gave up and put it aside for a full day.

Taking up doom95's help, today I plugged in via USB to see if I can run putty and dump the console output. I had noticed a sound and found the console booted to Hekate (without battery plugged). I powered it off, plugged the battery pack, and booted again - it worked. I have been having many successful boots since then. I have tried booting when the console is cold, hot, and with different pressure with the assumption there is a bad solder joint (even though I have already re-touched all the joints).

At this point, I am not able to reproduce the many-consecutive (and persistent) failures. I would say it was a result of capacitance between boots (i.e. I never let the console fully power off), but even that is a stretch. I honestly wish I knew what went wrong and how to avoid it again.

tldr; I am no longer having an issue and unable to reproduce it at this time

PS - thank you all for the support; I will update the subject I see I cannot edit the subject as CLOSED. I'm a long time member, but rarely post anything.

you need to use the USB connector of the Hwfly chip NOT the USB port of the console.

 

[Ka0tiK]

Hi. Did you solve your problem? Stucked at the same situation

I re-soldered some joints. I suspect I had a cold joint which eventually failed until I re-soldered some areas. It has been working flawlessly since.