Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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mattytrog

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Lol I've been there. Returned to half completed work that I forgot about months ago. Forgot what stage of work I was at.

You can stop pulling your hair out now!
 

mattytrog

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Awesome! My switch is in the hands of the modder.

Thanks so much for all of this! You should setup a donate link.
Thanks!

But I hate asking for money.

I`d rather folk buy themselves a pint in celebration of their own success of modifying these fooking things...
 
D

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Thanks!

But I hate asking for money.

I`d rather folk buy themselves a pint in celebration of their own success of modifying these fooking things...
Nah, let us give you some pub money. You deserve some sort of $ outside of your mod cashflow. The info you're giving out for free is awesome.
 
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IAmBeave

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I'm sad about my switch and it's it's sudden inability to charge itself. :sad: Unfortunately I don't have to knowledge or equipment to diagnose and repair/replace whatever is wrong with it. @mattytrog Don't suppose you do repairs as well as mod installs?
 

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I'm sad about my switch and it's it's sudden inability to charge itself. :sad: Unfortunately I don't have to knowledge or equipment to diagnose and repair/replace whatever is wrong with it. @mattytrog Don't suppose you do repairs as well as mod installs?
I've been known to yes. Only just getting caught up with other stuff due to equipment problems.

Poor old @Canna has been waiting for his back for bloody ages. With one thing and another, that one has taken about 6 weeks from start to finish. Squeezing work in when I can. However that needed quite substantial work. Still, royal snail have it now and I'm getting caught up.

I don't mind taking a look. I have rework and test facilities here :)
 

Gismor

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now i have a very interesting question:
i have an Rebug SwitchMe and use the newest: Version 1 bootloader - dual-boot

Im on firmware 6.0 and i will do an upate to the newest version with ChoiDujourNX.
I have autoRCM not enable (dont need it).
When i will update with the programm there is a checkfield for install autoRCM.
Any expirence with the modchip and this tool to update the firmware?
Can i uncheck this or must i check it?
 

mattytrog

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now i have a very interesting question:
i have an Rebug SwitchMe and use the newest: Version 1 bootloader - dual-boot

Im on firmware 6.0 and i will do an upate to the newest version with ChoiDujourNX.
I have autoRCM not enable (dont need it).
When i will update with the programm there is a checkfield for install autoRCM.
Any expirence with the modchip and this tool to update the firmware?
Can i uncheck this or must i check it?
Depends if you want your fuses burning or not. You can use autoRCM if you wish. You can use any firmware. It will work on all future firmwares
 
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Gismor

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sorry for my many many question but im complete new and have nothing expierence with the modchips.

hope i understand this right. when i have install version 1 and ich will change to version 2 are these following steps are right?
i press the dip twice and my rebug drive goes open i installed the version 2 bootloader and after this i do it again and install the chainloader for the right version.

i can change my version when i want right?

thanks for all your help and sorry for these question xD
 

mattytrog

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sorry for my many many question but im complete new and have nothing expierence with the modchips.

hope i understand this right. when i have install version 1 and ich will change to version 2 are these following steps are right?
i press the dip twice and my rebug drive goes open i installed the version 2 bootloader and after this i do it again and install the chainloader for the right version.

i can change my version when i want right?

thanks for all your help and sorry for these question xD
Yes you can change when you like. If you want to change bootloader to enable the vol+ strap if you fitted it, you can change the UF2 bootloader yes.

If you just want to change the chainloader, you can either... Drop the other UF2 on there, change the mode with the mode change pad or hex edit it as I described in the op of this thread .Or might have been my other basic uf2 files thread.

Make sure your 0 folder is right if you are using it and you are done.
 
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ErAzOr

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Hi,

I also have the problem, that my battery drained completely. Now I'm not able to charge the battery anymore. I'm unable to power on my switch... :(
As suggested to an other member I checked the VCC-IN voltage. I only get 1,9V, even with power cable plugged in (but keep in mind battery is completely drained).

What could this mean in my case? Where could be the issue?
 

mattytrog

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Hi,

I also have the problem, that my battery drained completely. Now I'm not able to charge the battery anymore. I'm unable to power on my switch... :(
As suggested to an other member I checked the VCC-IN voltage. I only get 1,9V, even with power cable plugged in (but keep in mind battery is completely drained).

What could this mean in my case? Where could be the issue?
What do you get with battery disconnected?
 

mattytrog

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it's also 1,9V with disconnected battery (and plugged in power cable)
Ok it's looking like the m92t36 is toast.

If you can test with a charged battery and you would get the same, then this likely confirms it. You could try booting hekate with battery discontented. It won't actually boot the console, but see if the menu Comes up
 

karloz25

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can i get a picture or diagram of the 5 wires needed to be soldered on rebug switchme.
also the heat plate must be cut to fit the modchip?
what would i need the modchip onboard button for?
 

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