Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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PSxed

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Hope you haven't blown something. Test your console is charging. Put in the dock. See if dock light remains steady and you get a picture on TV.

Then check soldering to usb points

The switch works perfectly except the trinket doesn’t run anything. When i press volume + and power the trinket led goes from purple to blinking green to solid solid red after that the switch just boots regular.
 

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Would it be possible to do the flashing stage again? Or do i have to resolder the usb connector to the m0?
 

mattytrog

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The switch works perfectly except the trinket doesn’t run anything. When i press volume + and power the trinket led goes from purple to blinking green to solid solid red after that the switch just boots regular.
OK... You have power to the chip, its LEDs seem to be flashing correctly and your console boot (without the chip sadly).

The solution HAS to be in how you have soldered your USB lines.

Have you lifted a trace? Can you confirm connectivity with the USB port and the chip?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

@PSxed

Put your joycon rail back in.
 

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OK... You have power to the chip, its LEDs seem to be flashing correctly and your console boot (without the chip sadly).

The solution HAS to be in how you have soldered your USB lines.

Have you lifted a trace? Can you confirm connectivity with the USB port and the chip?

I have resoldered both usb point again just in case, checked for continuity and check. When i insert a usb c cable from my mac to my switch the trinket led goes red for around 3s and then turns off. I really think i messed up the flashing stage somehow.

I tried getting into rcm with a jig (with everything still connected) and that also just boots directly to the nintendo os. Tried the rail with a joycon because i thought that was maybe faulty but the joycons still connect.

edit:

i have the switchboot partition mounted now through my switch
 
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mattytrog

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I have resoldered both usb point again just in case, checked for continuity and check. When i insert a usb c cable from my mac to my switch the trinket led goes red for around 3s and then turns off. I really think i messed up the flashing stage somehow.

I tried getting into rcm with a jig (with everything still connected) and that also just boots directly to the nintendo os. Tried the rail with a joycon because i thought that was maybe faulty but the joycons still connect.
OK...

Disconnect from PC your Switch.
Boot to normal Switch OS.
Double-press reset on the back. You might have to press RESET - wait a second - RESET.

When your chip red LED is "breathing", you are in bootloader mode. Connect switch to PC. Does a drive open?
 

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OK...

Disconnect from PC your Switch.
Boot to normal Switch OS.
Double-press reset on the back. You might have to press RESET - wait a second - RESET.

When your chip red LED is "breathing", you are in bootloader mode. Connect switch to PC. Does a drive open?

Schermafbeelding-2018-11-11-om-20-22-07.png


this works
 

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Fantastic. So looks like the bootloader was flashed correctly. That means USB are soldered correctly too.

Next thing is check the joycon strap for connectivity to the modchip. You can test this by connecting a joycon to the rail and pressing RESET on the chip. You should get a "disconnected" graphic on the screen in the Switch OS.
 

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Fantastic. So looks like the bootloader was flashed correctly. That means USB are soldered correctly too.

Next thing is check the joycon strap for connectivity to the modchip. You can test this by connecting a joycon to the rail and pressing RESET on the chip. You should get a "disconnected" graphic on the screen in the Switch OS.

When press reset i get an animation with the right joycon disconnecting, the led flashing and after that it reconnects. Is that what you mean? Thanks for the help by the way, i really appreciate it!
 

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When press reset i get an animation with the right joycon disconnecting, the led flashing and after that it reconnects. Is that what you mean? Thanks for the help by the way, i really appreciate it!
Yes. So everything is correct.

Drop the chainloader UF2 on your chip again...

Switch console off...

Hold vol+, then power on, then let go of vol+ after a second or so.
 

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Yes. So everything is correct.

Drop the chainloader UF2 on your chip again...

Switch console off...

Hold vol+, then power on, then let go of vol+ after a second or so.

Dropped "TRINKET_REBUG_CHAINLOADER_0_FOLDER.UF2" in switchboot, turned my switch off and tried it again. Still nada.. :(
 

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I forgot to mention in my earlier post, when I had the same as PSxed, i'd forgotten to do the firmware first to change it to switchboot, after that i copied over the uf2 I needed, so the smaller uf2 should come first and the bigger second.
 
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Dropped "TRINKET_REBUG_CHAINLOADER_0_FOLDER.UF2" in switchboot, turned my switch off and tried it again. Still nada.. :(
Drop the bootloader UF2 on there again... It HAS to work. Just let me double-check something...
 

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I forgot to mention in my earlier post, when I had the same as PSxed, i'd forgotten to do the firmware first to change it to switchboot, after that i copied over the uf2 I needed, so the smaller uf2 should come first and the bigger second.

I did "Version_1_trinket_rebug_joycon_only.uf2" and after that was done "TRINKET_REBUG_CHAINLOADER_0_FOLDER.UF2". Is it normal that a jig doesn't work when this is installed? Cause i can't go to rcm that way either..
 

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I did "Version_1_trinket_rebug_joycon_only.uf2" and after that was done "TRINKET_REBUG_CHAINLOADER_0_FOLDER.UF2". Is it normal that a jig doesn't work when this is installed? Cause i can't go to rcm that way either..
No. A jig should work no matter what. I`ve just tested once again downloading the trinket pack (I repackaged earlier due to attachment limitations). Works perfectly this end.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

@PSxed

Daft question... Is your vol+ working? Can you turn your volume up and down?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Switch booting normally - Check
Modchip receiving power - Check
Both UF2 files properly flashed - Check - I can see Switchboot there
Joycon strap working - check
Can update UF2 using the switch directly - check

That leaves your volume+ button.

Or you aren`t timing your vol+ press correctly.
 

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No. A jig should work no matter what. I`ve just tested once again downloading the trinket pack (I repackaged earlier due to attachment limitations). Works perfectly this end.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

@PSxed

Daft question... Is your vol+ working? Can you turn your volume up and down?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Switch booting normally - Check
Modchip receiving power - Check
Both UF2 files properly flashed - Check - I can see Switchboot there
Joycon strap working - check
Can update UF2 using the switch directly - check

That leaves your volume+ button.

Or you aren`t timing your vol+ press correctly.

lol great question. My vol up isn't working, volume down is.. Guess i know what's going wrong now.
 

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Let me guess...

Someone has attempted to fit the vol+ strap and wiped out the 150R 0201 resistor. Or ribbon next to fan isnt all the way in.
 

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