Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

Attachments

  • Trinket equivalent.png
    Trinket equivalent.png
    118 KB · Views: 3,799
Last edited by mattytrog,

mattytrog

You don`t want to listen to anything I say.
OP
Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2018
Messages
3,708
Trophies
0
Age
48
XP
4,328
Country
United Kingdom
Well it might be working the way you intended it, the issue is if you do a full power off and try to boot the console from a cold boot the power button doesn't work any more, you have to plug it into a power source to get it to boot up. So from what you said and what I've tried, it's looking to be a HW issue. For now I'll leave it as a 4 Wire and look into either AutoRCM or putting a switch in the joy-con for RCM.

People have also tried putting the reset line onto a vol switch. Only problem is, it disconnects joycons every time you want to change the volume.
Just a thought...

Try holding down the power button for a second longer when you switch the console on.
 
Last edited by mattytrog,

KrzyInuYasha

Member
Newcomer
Joined
Nov 27, 2006
Messages
12
Trophies
0
Website
Visit site
XP
234
Country
United States
People have also tried putting the reset line onto a vol switch. Only problem is, it disconnects joycons every time you want to change the volume.
Just a thought...

Try holding down the power button for a second longer when you switch the console on.

I have, the issue is you get no response at all from pressing the power button when it's in a hard power off state when it's connected to the trinket's RST line, it just refuses to do a cold boot while the PWR BT is connected to the trinket's RST, only way to wake it is connecting it to a charge source and let it boot up that way, once booted the PWR BT works fine, just cold boots are the issue and since it can be weeks between chances to play or do any thing console wise I like to fully power off the Switch to conserve it's battery.
 

mattytrog

You don`t want to listen to anything I say.
OP
Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2018
Messages
3,708
Trophies
0
Age
48
XP
4,328
Country
United Kingdom
I have, the issue is you get no response at all from pressing the power button when it's in a hard power off state when it's connected to the trinket's RST line, it just refuses to do a cold boot while the PWR BT is connected to the trinket's RST, only way to wake it is connecting it to a charge source and let it boot up that way, once booted the PWR BT works fine, just cold boots are the issue and since it can be weeks between chances to play or do any thing console wise I like to fully power off the Switch to conserve it's battery.

Ok. Going to method 2 my bench board and see where we go from there.

Fix will come! In meantime I'll put method 3 back.
 

Sir

Well-Known Member
Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2018
Messages
115
Trophies
0
Age
27
XP
493
Country
United Kingdom
Ummmm why is your 3.3v line there?
It's on the wrong side for starters, and why do you have so much wire exposed, also run that line under the heat pipe.

That was the alternate line. also I suck at this and I expected to break my switch so. I will redo it at some point.
 

Sir

Well-Known Member
Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2018
Messages
115
Trophies
0
Age
27
XP
493
Country
United Kingdom
Thats asking for trouble.
That 3v line will short onto the heatpipe eventually with heat cycles. And its squished against the shield when refitted...
I was in a rush and im pretty bad, but how does this look, I tried to sort it out 2 days later, also I got the 3v alternative point? isn' t that correct? Its been working so far.
20181001_132703.jpg
 

Sir

Well-Known Member
Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2018
Messages
115
Trophies
0
Age
27
XP
493
Country
United Kingdom
How do you sort out the 3v and other points from touching the shield? I thought I killed my switch because it wouldn't boot the first time I installed it. I then stuck a mcdonalds sticker between it to stop touching.
 

mattytrog

You don`t want to listen to anything I say.
OP
Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2018
Messages
3,708
Trophies
0
Age
48
XP
4,328
Country
United Kingdom
shield.png
2 ways.

Insulate it somehow (black insulation tape) or kapton tape makes a nice job.

You can cut the shield with scissors too. Cut 2 slits down the same width of the chip, bend the resulting flap back and forth until it breaks off.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Take a look...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Deleted User

Witalka_Shelby

Well-Known Member
Newcomer
Joined
Jan 12, 2015
Messages
57
Trophies
0
Age
35
XP
1,733
Country
Germany
Remove that wire, give it a good charge.

Or just let it charge for 10 minutes or so with wire removed.

Then try using TegraRCMsmash to send a payload. Get it onto bootloader screen (hekate / SXOS whatever) and leave it charging on that screen for an hour.

Report back.

removed the wire but it looks like I shorted both capacitors. (need to remove the bridge)

but I tried with a full battery and I get into RCM and can boot into Horizon so it looks like everything is fine expect the charging

 

evilsperm

Well-Known Member
Newcomer
Joined
May 29, 2018
Messages
77
Trophies
0
Age
55
Website
rebug.me
XP
385
Country
United States
I was in a rush and im pretty bad, but how does this look, I tried to sort it out 2 days later, also I got the 3v alternative point? isn' t that correct? Its been working so far.
posta pic of the bottom of the nand pcb where you soldered the 3.3v line.
 

mattytrog

You don`t want to listen to anything I say.
OP
Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2018
Messages
3,708
Trophies
0
Age
48
XP
4,328
Country
United Kingdom
posta pic of the bottom of the nand pcb where you soldered the 3.3v line.
If it's on and working I'd leave it.

Don't want him to pull a pad off clicking it out.

The only other line there is a 1.8v line I believe. These ldo regulators drop out at over 1.8 so you must have the right point.
If it's working, with no nand corruption, leave it.
 
Last edited by mattytrog,

wiiando

Well-Known Member
Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2008
Messages
343
Trophies
1
XP
1,803
Country
United States
The issues reported for method 2 have been like this since I first tried it, basically will not boot from a coldboot hangs at rcm, I gave up and still use method 3 as rcm also has it's own quirks

Not meaning to sound ungrateful, just reporting what I've experienced, tried it on 3 different switches all the same issue

Hopefully you can sort it @mattytrog

Also has anyone had a dead trinket? well not dead but, get a flash of blue light then solid green, no notification from a pc/laptop that it's alive, this is one that hasn't been touched, brand new, everything as is from place of purchase, is it blank or likely just dead?
 
Last edited by wiiando,

Sir

Well-Known Member
Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2018
Messages
115
Trophies
0
Age
27
XP
493
Country
United Kingdom
If it's on and working I'd leave it.

Don't want him to pull a pad off clicking it out.

The only other line there is a 1.8v line I believe. These ldo regulators drop out at over 1.8 so you must have the right point.
If it's working, with no nand corruption, leave it.

I don't understand, its 100% on the correct point that is on the diagrams
 

methamz

Well-Known Member
Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2013
Messages
171
Trophies
0
Age
30
XP
1,080
Country
United States
That's all good then. Don't remove it just to take a pic. If you are happy then that's good :)

Im working on a custom board with SAMD21. It will be for external use. But I dont know how to flash it. I saw your post and want to thank you for your work. I have some questions for you.
1- Can I flash a SAMD21 with Raspberry Pi Zero with OpenOCD? Or do I have to use a JTAG device?
2- Do you still recommend SX OS after Hekate 4.2?
 

Site & Scene News

Popular threads in this forum

General chit-chat
Help Users
  • No one is chatting at the moment.
    Veho @ Veho: Nobody is reading what you post.