Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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mattytrog

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I have done the method 1 install but when I shut down from horizon the trinket boots the switch 10-15 seconds after shut down. I have read page 1 several times but I do not see that this is normal behavior? Have I done something wrong? I have the standard 4 wire install with this flashed to the trinket,

method_1_hekate_32_ctcaer_trinket_m0-zip
Also just saw these files, what are these for? test_method_1_hekate_fspatches_v3_mooglazer-zip.137403

Hello! Welcome to the twilight zone!

First a couple of questions.

Are you autoRCM?
Which payload are you using?

If using SXloader, the power-up 10-15 seconds is normal behaviour. It shouldn`t boot though. It will probably flash the trinket lights or display the SX splash screen, then power off.

It needs to send the payload one final time to complete the shutdown process.

This doesn`t happen with Hekate. Hekate just knocks all power off to the PMIC as I remember.
 

TrinketMan

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Hello! Welcome to the twilight zone!

First a couple of questions.

Are you autoRCM?
Which payload are you using?

If using SXloader, the power-up 10-15 seconds is normal behaviour. It shouldn`t boot though. It will probably flash the trinket lights or display the SX splash screen, then power off.

It needs to send the payload one final time to complete the shutdown process.

This doesn`t happen with Hekate. Hekate just knocks all power off to the PMIC as I remember.

Thank you.

Yes, autorcm. payload I believe is the one contained in the files I mentioned? Hekate 3.2 . I thought that those files had the payload compiled in the the UF2?

I am shutting down from within horizon. Shutting off from the hekate boot menu works. I am just afraid that when I give this to a kid they will shut it down, then it will boot right back to the hekate screen and drain the battery 100%

Would be nice if hekate had a sleep timeout power-off function.
 

mattytrog

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Thank you.

Yes, autorcm. payload I believe is the one contained in the files I mentioned? Hekate 3.2 . I thought that those files had the payload compiled in the the UF2?

I am shutting down from within horizon. Shutting off from the hekate boot menu works. I am just afraid that when I give this to a kid they will shut it down, then it will boot right back to the hekate screen and drain the battery 100%

Would be nice if hekate had a sleep timeout power-off function.

Ok. You using method 1 Hekate... Yes the payload is built in.

I had hoped we had fixed this! Let me test this end and see what is happening.

Back shortly...

@TrinketMan

You know what?

You are absolutely spot on. Looking into this now as a matter of urgency. This should have been fixed. Thought I had fixed it...

Time to start up Ardudildo IDE again.

Thank-you!
 
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mattytrog

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Thank you.

Yes, autorcm. payload I believe is the one contained in the files I mentioned? Hekate 3.2 . I thought that those files had the payload compiled in the the UF2?

I am shutting down from within horizon. Shutting off from the hekate boot menu works. I am just afraid that when I give this to a kid they will shut it down, then it will boot right back to the hekate screen and drain the battery 100%

Would be nice if hekate had a sleep timeout power-off function.

Ok...

Will you try something for me please?

Start the switch and configure an autoboot option from the "Launch Options" in Hekate...
Power off...
Start switch, should load with a splash screen now.
Let it boot to Horizon, shut down as normal.
After 10-15 seconds (12 should be), you should see the Atmosphere splash screen once again...(and you will think "Not worked... It`s booting")
But it won`t boot.
The screen will flash white then power will be completely off.

Can you test this for me please?
 
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TrinketMan

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Ok...

Will you try something for me please?

Start the switch and configure an autoboot option from the "Launch Options" in Hekate...
Power off...
Start switch, should load with a splash screen now.
Let it boot to Horizon, shut down as normal.
After 10-15 seconds (12 should be), you should see the Atmosphere splash screen once again...(and you will think "Not worked... It`s booting")
But it won`t boot.
The screen will flash white then power will be completely off.

Can you test this for me please?

Yes, that did the trick! Thank you! It behaved exactly as you described. Why does it boot the splashscreen?
 

mattytrog

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Yes, that did the trick! Thank you! It behaved exactly as you described. Why does it boot the splashscreen?

Because either horizon or more likely the bootrom needs to confirm shutdown and power down everything properly so it seems.

If you want to boot into the Hekate menu again, from power off, hold down vol - and press power. Keep holding vol - and menu will come up. Change your autoboot option if you wish or whatever.

Will put this in OP tomorrow. In bed now!
 

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Hosting all installs pictures offsite now. Can`t add so many to OP so I`m BBcoding them from imgBB :)

Hope I`ve done it right!

@Cosmic_Link
Nice tidy job there!
Just one thing I feel I should point out...

Under your solder holes, there doesn`t appear to be anything insulating your trinket from GND.

Now I don`t want to worry you, but that could spell a problem for your Switch.

Lovely neat job, but I`d advise getting some tape under them holes.

They go right through and are probably only 1/10th of a mm from touching the shield. Wanted to point it out thats all. Don`t want any smoke-demons released!

Feel free to tell me to bugger off! Its the 3V and USB pads that are live.

How you have it wired, method 3 by the looks of it, the 3V is fed by the regulator, so if it touches GND, the regulator will pop (unsure what short-circuit protection it has if any).

The USB pad will be live too. Just frightened of them touching your shield.

Hi Matt,

Thanks for the comment and concerns. :lol: Yes I have it wired using Method 3. On the underside of the trinket there's double sided tape which is covering the entire surface of the bottom of the trinket, so there should be no direct contact to the shield. I suppose I could pop a line of Kapton tape to the RHS of the trinket onto the shield to insulate there. I will do this later today. :grog:
 
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Hi Matt,

Thanks for the comment and concerns. :lol: On the underside of the trinket there's double sided tape which is covering the entire surface of the bottom of the trinket, so there should be no direct contact to the shield. I suppose I could pop a line of Kapton tape to the RHS of the trinket onto the shield to insulate there. I will do this later today. :grog:

Cool

Just the side where the 3v and USB pins are (left of pic).

I`m sure you have already thought about this and not found it a concern. You can obviously see it better than me!

Just my OCD playing up :)
 

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This is a fork by rajkosto of hekate (a PR has been submitted):


It includes FS KIP1 patches. If you're unsure if you need this, please stick with the mainline Hekate payloads.

Ah, for anyone that reads this and doesn't know what that means, its the ReiNX ES patches. You can accomplish the same by adding the FS.kip1 sysmodule to your hekate_ipl.ini on your mircosd (I believe).
 

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Ah, for anyone that reads this and doesn't know what that means, its the ReiNX ES patches. You can accomplish the same by adding the FS.kip1 sysmodule to your hekate_ipl.ini on your mircosd (I believe).

Good to know. Regarding ReiNX and ESpatches / sigpatches etc etc... I haven`t got a bloody clue about any of it! Yet.
 

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hey there, taking a look at the pictures i've seen many people soldering BAT using method 1 lately, what is it for?
 

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hey there, taking a look at the pictures i've seen many people soldering BAT using method 1 lately, what is it for?

Its not method 1. Method 1 cannot supply enough power to the regulator (BAT connection).

If they are doing that, then, assuming it boots at all (I`m guessing it won`t... Their M92T36 will go pop in about an hour.

Soldering BAT connection is method 3.

Regards.
 
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Canna

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Is there anything that would keep the Switch from powering on with the back off? Also anyone know where you can get the left Joy-Con ribbon cable?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fix-Part...able-for-Nintendo-Switch-Joy-con/153051787133

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

So uh, my Switch is bricked now. I couldn't get the trinket to turn on so I took it out and the Switch won't turn on, and when I put it in the dock, the green light flashes until I unplug the dock.
Any ideas?

Oop, nevermind, small amount of solder spilled across the capacitors


Id like to say any soldering to a board always check your work after before powering and please guys remove the battery connector before you start your installs
 
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Canna

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I don't know, I've made it very simple to understand but you seem to not even want to replicate it for yourself.

So instead of insulting me and behaving like a child on the internet, why don't you acutally *verify* the information first? I've already told you've I've had multiple people confirm this, so im not sure why you are being so dense.

Since you want to get rude, lets break it down very simple for you.


1 - Boot into horizon.
2 - Plug in usb
3 - Hold power, select power off.
4 - Remove usb after powered off
5 - Attempt to boot trinket with usb removed.

It won't boot without a physical reset via button or RST to GND. You claimed in your edit that if you removed usb you would be ok. That is FALSE. You are now perpetuating misinformation to the community. Great job!

For someone who is managing this thread, you seem remarkably ignorant to positive suggestions. I've tried and tried to clarify it to you but you seem so incredibly focused on your own narrow opinions that you are unwilling to listen to others, even when they've informed you that its confirmed.

The information you've edited in OP makes understanding the situation worse. If you cannot understand this I cannot help you.

Stop pretending other people are being ignorant when it is you doing so. I told you in a PM that you are stuck thinking in your own head and you are not considering that there are a wide variety of people doing this mod, as well as end users who have no idea whats going on.

The symptoms im describing have literally nothing to do with the installation, and everything to do with post-install behaviors.

You want to pretend something as normal as powering off the switch in the dock is "abnormal", then thats your irrational problem. For everyone else, they should be made aware that their devices can be rendered inoperable by such a simple process as I've explained several times now.

Take your head out of your ass and throw your ego away. Its interferring with community support. You have a end user telling you directly about a complication and you've refused to even acknowledge it, let alone attempt to replicate it. How is that anyones fault but your own?

Maybe managing this thread isn't for you. I know that im fine doing the mod. In fact, im more than fine...im actually *contributing* back to the community by providing valuable information that you apparently seem entirely ignorant to. What a dick move of you harp on me when all I was doing was trying to prevent stress from future installers by educating them about a flaw in this trinket's design. But yes, keep on harping about your "advice" and keep ignoring reality.....news flash people are going to put their switch in their docks/usb and they are going to power off. It WILL happen, and it WILL freeze the trinket.

Pretending it wont happen wont make it go away. So instead, you should describe the symptom clearly so that when people do experience it, they will know what to do.

The only person who is being unreasonable here is you. I am advocating for education, and you are advocating for what? Holding to your opinions on how people should or shouldn't behave? Guess what dude...you wont change peoples behaviors. Welcome to fucking life.

Edit- in an attempt to document, I just repeated the procedure. It again froze my trinket. I couldn't even reset it, had to take the case off. Got it all back and secure, and now the behavior is not repeating. Seems to be hit or miss, but I have had htis happen to me exactly this way at least 10 times so its definitely occuring.

I've had others test and it didn't happen. Others, it did. So there are unknown variables at play.

Don't be so god damn sensitive and rude were all here to help and if you got a problem with this post then put your tampon back in....... Fck me:glare:
 
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