It's the SD card lock switch, that's what it was for me. When it rips off, it stays permanently in the locked position. From my understanding the card reader has a piece in it that gets pressed down by the little piece of plastic when it's in the unlocked position. When this piece gets pressed down, it allows you to write. Since your little plastic lock piece is probably ripped off (this was the issue in my case), the little piece in the card reader does not get pressed, and therefore the computer doesn't allow you to write to the SD card. There are multiple fixes online, but the best one is to put a piece of tape over the hole. Make sure its a pretty solid piece of tape though and if it isn't solid, shove anything (plastic, wood, whatever) in the slot before you put the tape on. The first time I tried, it didn't work because my tape wasn't strong enough, but then i jammed the hole with a bunch of plastic and put the tape over that and then it worked. Hope this helps.
It's the SD card lock switch, that's what it was for me. When it rips off, it stays permanently in the locked position. From my understanding the card reader has a piece in it that gets pressed down by the little piece of plastic when it's in the unlocked position. When this piece gets pressed down, it allows you to write. Since your little plastic lock piece is probably ripped off (this was the issue in my case), the little piece in the card reader does not get pressed, and therefore the computer doesn't allow you to write to the SD card. There are multiple fixes online, but the best one is to put a piece of tape over the hole. Make sure its a pretty solid piece of tape though and if it isn't solid, shove anything (plastic, wood, whatever) in the slot before you put the tape on. The first time I tried, it didn't work because my tape wasn't strong enough, but then i jammed the hole with a bunch of plastic and put the tape over that and then it worked. Hope this helps.
I get the error:
It still shows up in windows as a drive and asks to format. Should I attemp to read/write?
EDIT: I read a few times and the dumps have the same md5 checksum and the same size as the nand.bin from the gateway launcher so I think it's working properly
Code:
BOOTROM 8046
ERRCODE: 00F800FF
DFCFFFFF FFFFFFFF
00000008 00800000EDIT: I read a few times and the dumps have the same md5 checksum and the same size as the nand.bin from the gateway launcher so I think it's working properly
if the reads are consistent, it's probably just fine. I get seemingly random errcodes every time I connect, yet I've never had any problems reading/writing.
Just got my hands on two almost unused (<20h played) 3ds consoles still on Ver. 1.0.0-0E
Is there any use to dump this FW before i upgrade to 4.3?
Anything other than historical reasons that is.
I don't have any problems soldering the connectors but if there is no need and since Gateway can dump using SW id rather skip it.
BR agru
Is there any use to dump this FW before i upgrade to 4.3?
Anything other than historical reasons that is.
I don't have any problems soldering the connectors but if there is no need and since Gateway can dump using SW id rather skip it.
BR agru
nope only way to dump a <4.x FW is hardware mod....if you do it can you see if it boot up injected into emunand once your on 4.x, always wanted to know if that would work, but nobody has ever bothered dumping their 1.x FW
Sorry if I was a bit unclear, I know that SW dumping via GW only works on FW 4.1-4.5 where GW itself runs.nope only way to dump a <4.x FW is hardware mod....if you do it can you see if it boot up injected into emunand once your on 4.x, always wanted to know if that would work, but nobody has ever bothered dumping their 1.x FW
What I would like to know is if there is any benefit of having a 1.0.0 dump.
If there is anything I could get from that dump which would be impossible on later FW.
Perhaps its not even relevant since GW has kernel access....
Thanks a lot for the info
If I do perform a dump I'l make sure to update with info on booting it with emuNand.
Don't have my GW yet so might do it while waiting, but don't count on it
Bringing up an old post but I have an issue. This is the first time I've done this mod so bear with me please.
I have all points soldered, confirmed by my trusty multi-meter. Sd card has all wires soldered at the appropriate points listed here:
http://gbatemp.net/threads/nand-flash-dump-3ds.353263/
When I turn on the 3ds, I get the normal boot to the 3ds home screens. What did I miss? Gone over the checklist several times of course. Did I miss a point to ground or something? No reference for anything but soldering points on the board to the sd card adapter right? The sd card adapter was just straight through micro sd to normal sd, no hardware in it, is that right?
bendrr
I have all points soldered, confirmed by my trusty multi-meter. Sd card has all wires soldered at the appropriate points listed here:
http://gbatemp.net/threads/nand-flash-dump-3ds.353263/
When I turn on the 3ds, I get the normal boot to the 3ds home screens. What did I miss? Gone over the checklist several times of course. Did I miss a point to ground or something? No reference for anything but soldering points on the board to the sd card adapter right? The sd card adapter was just straight through micro sd to normal sd, no hardware in it, is that right?
bendrr
What model are attempting to modify? These instructions are for the original 3DS only; not the XL/LL.
You will not get the blue screen unless the SD is attached to the PC or USB reader when the 3DS is booted.
if you don't want to play most games, don't want to use themes, don't want to use miiverse, don't want to use eshop, don't want to use dlc, etc etc, then sure, dump 1.0 fw and keep a copy of it
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