Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

jkyoho

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Correct me if I'm wrong: when fully installing a MOSFET, is it normal for D and S to show continuity ( if G was somehow triggered), but G should not to either?
Thats correct, you're copy paste the low impedance(low resistance, or continuity beep) from CPU caps (SP1,SP2) to the mosfet D&S.
 
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HackMan37

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xiao is bad.

even on my other project on uv sensor, it broke my smartphone power ic, when i use it as otg.

I have used seeeds studio product couple of time, and their design is bad, usually unstable. I also experience with their mtk.xxxx also unstable.


This is first time i use waveshare and impress with their design. its more stable.
Yeah, that waveshare one it's that i bough and i can confirm that, very stable.
 

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POPOLO

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Would this help for a unit that is timing out on glitch? I let it run.. it is blue light for a few minutes. Then I get the 3 long yellow flash… saying timed out. Should this help? I never get a boot screen. Only black screen.
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Well… I’m not sure if this was the issue. But i plugged the speakers in.. and i get one blue flash. And then the yellow error of =** Emmc initialization failure during glitch… is this a dat0 issue?
chack dat0 0.4XX~0.586
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Guys, this new error code system is killing me.
Is it two long one short? I dont get it. This code is not exist

cable uses AWG 30~32. You can try using a single high-power Power MOSFET, which will greatly improve the BOOT speed.”
 

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themine1500

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On the V1… is the red line both connection to the tops of these caps? Or is the left in the top and the right one the bottom? It’s very hard to tell on the PDF
 

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Dee87

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On the V1… is the red line both connection to the tops of these caps? Or is the left in the top and the right one the bottom? It’s very hard to tell on the PDF
well i mean the red line only goes to the top right? so i would suggest it goes to the top one.

if it would went to the bottom one i would made the line to the bottom cap B-)
 
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FreeLander

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This is exactly who I ordered 20 from.. all of them came in as the 3 point crap ones… none of them were the 4 point I ordered. Currently trying to get my money back.
Thanks for telling me. I won't order from them again. One thing I'm trying is buying directly from the Chinese market through Sugargoo.

I already ordered 10 pieces from this 1688.com buyer. Will report back
 

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themine1500

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well i mean the red line only goes to the top right? so i would suggest it goes to the top one.

if it would went to the bottom one i would made the line to the bottom cap B-)
Well to be fair the cap on the left you connect to the top but the line comes from below.. I just want to be careful that’s all.. wasn’t trying to criticize. Just wanted to make sure I know exactly where to connect. I’ve not done a V1 yet and have no V1 flex..

The top of each cap it is then 🤝
 

Dee87

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Well to be fair the cap on the left you connect to the top but the line comes from below.. I just want to be careful that’s all.. wasn’t trying to criticize. Just wanted to make sure I know exactly where to connect. I’ve not done a V1 yet and have no V1 flex..

The top of each cap it is then 🤝
i didnt feel any criticizisum dont worry ;-) just saying if it went to the bottum one the line would go down u can also check the aio thread there are maybe better pictures so u can see urself :-)
 
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FreeLander

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chack dat0 0.4XX~0.586
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cable uses AWG 30~32. You can try using a single high-power Power MOSFET, which will greatly improve the BOOT speed.”
Do you think the *== error is caused by the MOSFET? I did two irfhs8342 on an OLED and got the same error.
 

floxcap

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according to my tests the complete turn off is a bad thing, the leakage current is much more than in "deep sleep" mode, resulting in not working eMMC and pulled down RST

your blue screen looks like DRAM problems, what 3v3 point do you use?

but you can try it (the only change is vreg[0] = 0; instead of vreg[0] = 1; )
@rehius - So I tried that firmware - it makes no difference for me.
It glitches and loads payload.bin okay - but unable to access emmc (without disconnecting 3V3 from the pico).
 

Flaviocarvalho

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yep, the unmarked ones aren't connected to anything on the switch motherboard. according to the emmc standard, they shouldn't be connected to anything in the emmc chip either. You need to keep some of the unused solder balls for the emmc to self-align properly when heating it though.
in theory it's possible to run jumper wires from clk and cmd, but I think it would be rather difficult to mount the emmc flat enough with multiple jumper wires in place.

That'S one of my options to fix a switch lite with broken pads...run the jumper wires direct from emmc to the trail that leads to cpu... the other ir use the adapter that comes with the hwfly for oled ..the green that is reballed between the board and the emmc
 

themine1500

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Is there a document or post anywhere about the diode range for all points? Wanting to confirm CPU diode was in spec. I replaced the v2 flex 2x after installing the first. Reading is .246 área when I’ve also seen .46X.. wanting to double check to make sure this is in a proper range. Thanks!
 

juanvlc

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xiao is bad.

even on my other project on uv sensor, it broke my smartphone power ic, when i use it as otg.

I have used seeeds studio product couple of time, and their design is bad, usually unstable. I also experience with their mtk.xxxx also unstable.


This is first time i use waveshare and impress with their design. its more stable.
one of my oleds with xiao since several weeks and working awesome
 
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