Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

abal1000x

Well-Known Member
Member
Joined
Jun 5, 2022
Messages
1,059
Trophies
0
XP
1,363
Country
Gaza Strip
Can anyone help diagnose the flashing lights to help me fix.. I am not getting glitch. Flashing blue.. I thought it was supposed to be yellow.
That blue flashing means glitching.

The first time pico run, it will try the best parameter for the glitching. It will do that normally around 10seconds.
It will stopped when the parameter found. If theres error than there will be yellow blinking the error code.

In your video, its glitching. Its normal, just wait until its done. The parameter will be saved, and the next boot it will be faster.

If it doesn't found it will timeout and throws the yellow code of timeout.
=== Glitch attempt limit reached, cannot glitch

I've meet this timeout glitch error in oled, shifting the dat0 adapter little bit and its works.
 

Adran_Marit

Walküre's Hacker
Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2015
Messages
3,781
Trophies
1
Location
42*South
XP
4,552
Country
Australia

FreeLander

Well-Known Member
Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2023
Messages
350
Trophies
0
Age
35
XP
467
Country
United States
@FreeLander do you have the usb voltage tester? Did you check for voltage change/reset when connecting the charger?
Hello. Yes. It's drawing 0.48amps on 15v. Nothing changes when I power it on. Will try to change the CMD resistor and see
Post automatically merged:

Just read the updated code from rehius.


So heres the summary of the flowchart:

First, the code will detect the voltage
Check the voltage of RST (1.6-2.0v) failed throws **
Check the voltage of CMD (1.6-2.0v) failed throws *=
Check the voltage of D0 (1.6-2.0v) failed throws =*

All in the supposed voltage. This detection doesn't remove the possibility that the D0 short with the D1, only to make sure if the D0 line is not disconnected. In your case, this test is passed (OK).

Then the code check on the activity of the emmc.
It should do somekind of cmd1 request, then cmd1 response, then read block 0 then read block 1.

Here is the boot process in the datasheet as reference
View attachment 374998

In your case, nothing is detected (no cmd1 request, cmd1 response, block 0 and block1).



So this is my one cent guess:
If your device could boot normaly to ofw after that, then the apu or emmc, everything is okay. Your wire is definitely at fault, because the pico couldn't spoof the emmc communication.

Heres the probable scenario, if your device (apu + emmc) is okay:
CLK line is not connected. Even though in the section "Led Indication" stated that the CLK also detected, but i dont see it in anywhere in the code, which detecting the CLK line. I am not expert at signal, maybe you could test using multimeter on the pico, whether there is a voltage. If there is activity then the CLK line is connected. Would be better if you have oscilloscope. I don't have it, so i couldn't suggest further.

Since CMD is connected (voltage detection), and i dont see any possibility that it goes wrong (some interference), then the pico could read the line if CLK is connected. And at this point, the Dat0 not yet to be used. Dat0 will be used in the next stage, which is writing the loader to the emmc. So Dat0 is less probable to be the cause of the problem. Buuuuttt stilll, if the Dat0 short circuit the Dat1, then the emmc might not function properly. And again if its working normally goes to ofw, then the emmc function properly means the Dat0 is not short circuit with Dat1.

So in conclustion, your CLK is the most suspect. But since its difficult and risky to do anything on that point. You might just do some simple measurement using multimeter on the CLK pin in the pico side right before the resistor. Just to makesure if it is really connected. There should be some voltage measured. I am not yet confirmed this. Maybe others who still have oled could confirm this.
Thanks for the time you spent writing this. Actually, it sounds very reasonable to suspect CLK. I don't usually take much time on it, but because my soldering station is new I took more than I should to throw solder in there. When this code appeared, I resoldered it specifically as I thought it was the problem, but still. Regarding the diode mode, It's giving 0.7v.
 
Last edited by FreeLander,

POPOLO

Active Member
Newcomer
Joined
Apr 17, 2023
Messages
34
Trophies
0
Age
44
XP
194
Country
Japan
Could you explain this to me a little more? I am using fw2.74

i2coled-jpg.372193

PI2040-Zero PIN13 -> SCL PIN12 ->SDA
 

QuiTim

Well-Known Member
Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2023
Messages
754
Trophies
0
XP
1,154
Country
Albania
Hello. Yes. It's drawing 0.48amps on 15v. Nothing changes when I power it on. Will try to change the CMD resistor and see
Post automatically merged:


Thanks for the time you spent writing this. Actually, it sounds very reasonable to suspect CLK. I don't usually take much time on it, but because my soldering station is new I took more than I should to throw solder in there. When this code appeared, I resoldered it specifically as I thought it was the problem, but still. Regarding the diode mode, It's giving 0.7v.
After second thought and after reading Abal analysis, I think that CMD is Ok. Leave that be for now.
 

Phantomas77

Well-Known Member
Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2022
Messages
281
Trophies
0
XP
713
Country
Italy
What's the best way to go about fitting a wire underneath the emmc? I tried with 34 awg magnet wire but it was just a little too thick and raised the corner of the emmc.

Solder balls or paste?

I've just been practicing with donor boards and can consistently reball the emmc but not with a wire attached.
You should use thinner wire, AWG40 or AWG42 would be more suited. Otherwise, you can use these.

One trick that I learned from an experienced repair person: do you have a pair of those old cheap headphones that are broken or you don't use them anymore? The enamel wire inside the cable is very thin and it's perfect for this type of mod ;)
 

Mgt

Active Member
Newcomer
Joined
Sep 2, 2021
Messages
29
Trophies
0
Age
24
XP
63
Country
Spain
Good again. I have a friend with a pretty weird or complicated problem and we can't get this nintendo switch back so far. I explain the situation.

The switch worked fine with picofly until the day I took it out of its base after playing it fell to the ground and since then when I turn on the switch it shows a purple screen but with an error on the screen.

missing lpo sleep lib missing minerva lib/
update bootloader folder/
press any key...

if we remove the memory card we get the no memory card icon, but if we put it back we get the purple error screen again.

if we remove the installation we get a blue screen and it is not possible to start the system at all.

tests we have tested:

changed several memory cards = no success
tried different updated files latest version = no success
tried different card reader = no success
has done a reflow to gpu drive = no success
you have checked the female connector and made some measurements on the lines it seems that everything is fine here = no success

We don't want to run dangerous tests until the last minute to avoid possible further damage or to get to a worse point than we are now. We think that the problem may possibly be in the Nand or Ram memories.
what do you think? where do you think the problem is here?
Where would you go to carry out new tests or new measures to rule out different areas?
I hope you can help or give some advice and we can bring this nintendo switch back to life, thank you all in advance.
 

Attachments

  • 1.jpg
    1.jpg
    211.8 KB · Views: 19
  • 2.jpg
    2.jpg
    25.6 KB · Views: 17
  • 3.jpg
    3.jpg
    24.8 KB · Views: 22

QuiTim

Well-Known Member
Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2023
Messages
754
Trophies
0
XP
1,154
Country
Albania
Good again. I have a friend with a pretty weird or complicated problem and we can't get this nintendo switch back so far. I explain the situation.

The switch worked fine with picofly until the day I took it out of its base after playing it fell to the ground and since then when I turn on the switch it shows a purple screen but with an error on the screen.

missing lpo sleep lib missing minerva lib/
update bootloader folder/
press any key...

if we remove the memory card we get the no memory card icon, but if we put it back we get the purple error screen again.

if we remove the installation we get a blue screen and it is not possible to start the system at all.

tests we have tested:

changed several memory cards = no success
tried different updated files latest version = no success
tried different card reader = no success
has done a reflow to gpu drive = no success
you have checked the female connector and made some measurements on the lines it seems that everything is fine here = no success

We don't want to run dangerous tests until the last minute to avoid possible further damage or to get to a worse point than we are now. We think that the problem may possibly be in the Nand or Ram memories.
what do you think? where do you think the problem is here?
Where would you go to carry out new tests or new measures to rule out different areas?
I hope you can help or give some advice and we can bring this nintendo switch back to life, thank you all in advance.
Easiest test to do is this:
- Remove cover and shield and remove the pico and all the wires
- Press hard and I mean quite hard on RAM module while starting the Switch
- If it starts OK then you need to refllow RAM.
- If it does not start repeate the procedure but this time press hard on APU.
- If it starts you need to refllow APU (good luck with that)
- If it does not, we need to investigate further
 

CarlosGo

Member
Newcomer
Joined
May 23, 2023
Messages
5
Trophies
0
Age
23
XP
26
Country
Mexico
Hello everyone. This works? I saw him in a group. I have a flex v3 and I want to install it on a lite. Could this work so that the cable does not get in the way so much?
 

Attachments

  • FB_IMG_1685517515411.jpg
    FB_IMG_1685517515411.jpg
    68.6 KB · Views: 20

Mgt

Active Member
Newcomer
Joined
Sep 2, 2021
Messages
29
Trophies
0
Age
24
XP
63
Country
Spain
Easiest test to do is this:
- Remove cover and shield and remove the pico and all the wires
- Press hard and I mean quite hard on RAM module while starting the Switch
- If it starts OK then you need to refllow RAM.
- If it does not start repeate the procedure but this time press hard on APU.
- If it starts you need to refllow APU (good luck with that)
- If it does not, we need to investigate further
Sorry. The pressure tests have already been carried out previously without any success. My friend is from another country, I can't be with him :( I don't know if I'm applying enough pressure here either. I'll tell him to try all this again just in case before continuing to try other options. Thank you
Post automatically merged:

Hello everyone. This works? I saw him in a group. I have a flex v3 and I want to install it on a lite. Could this work so that the cable does not get in the way so much?
If I'm not mistaken, I think the cable should be soldered here. let the companions confirm if this is correct.
 

Attachments

  • flexxxv3.jpg
    flexxxv3.jpg
    147.4 KB · Views: 19
  • Like
Reactions: QuiTim and CarlosGo

abal1000x

Well-Known Member
Member
Joined
Jun 5, 2022
Messages
1,059
Trophies
0
XP
1,363
Country
Gaza Strip
Sorry. The pressure tests have already been carried out previously without any success. My friend is from another country, I can't be with him :( I don't know if I'm applying enough pressure here either. I'll tell him to try all this again just in case before continuing to try other options. Thank you
Post automatically merged:


If I'm not mistaken, I think the cable should be soldered here. let the companions confirm if this is correct.
Already tried reinstall the hekate?
 

FreeLander

Well-Known Member
Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2023
Messages
350
Trophies
0
Age
35
XP
467
Country
United States
After second thought and after reading Abal analysis, I think that CMD is Ok. Leave that be for now.
Alright. I removed everything and prepared a fresh rp2040 and wiring. Will do it all over again. CLK was a tough one on this OLED, but when I got a diode reading I thought it was all good.

Will see how it goes, reporting back later tonight.
 
  • Like
Reactions: QuiTim

POPOLO

Active Member
Newcomer
Joined
Apr 17, 2023
Messages
34
Trophies
0
Age
44
XP
194
Country
Japan
Sorry. The pressure tests have already been carried out previously without any success. My friend is from another country, I can't be with him :( I don't know if I'm applying enough pressure here either. I'll tell him to try all this again just in case before continuing to try other options. Thank you
Post automatically merged:

correct
 

Mgt

Active Member
Newcomer
Joined
Sep 2, 2021
Messages
29
Trophies
0
Age
24
XP
63
Country
Spain

QuiTim

Well-Known Member
Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2023
Messages
754
Trophies
0
XP
1,154
Country
Albania
Good again. I have a friend with a pretty weird or complicated problem and we can't get this nintendo switch back so far. I explain the situation.

The switch worked fine with picofly until the day I took it out of its base after playing it fell to the ground and since then when I turn on the switch it shows a purple screen but with an error on the screen.

missing lpo sleep lib missing minerva lib/
update bootloader folder/
press any key...

if we remove the memory card we get the no memory card icon, but if we put it back we get the purple error screen again.

if we remove the installation we get a blue screen and it is not possible to start the system at all.

tests we have tested:

changed several memory cards = no success
tried different updated files latest version = no success
tried different card reader = no success
has done a reflow to gpu drive = no success
you have checked the female connector and made some measurements on the lines it seems that everything is fine here = no success

We don't want to run dangerous tests until the last minute to avoid possible further damage or to get to a worse point than we are now. We think that the problem may possibly be in the Nand or Ram memories.
what do you think? where do you think the problem is here?
Where would you go to carry out new tests or new measures to rule out different areas?
I hope you can help or give some advice and we can bring this nintendo switch back to life, thank you all in advance.
Try this: https://gbatemp.net/threads/hekate-v4-6-bootloader-library-sleep-mode-is-missing.528305/post-8935862
 

themine1500

Active Member
Newcomer
Joined
Apr 24, 2023
Messages
27
Trophies
0
Age
38
XP
82
Country
United States
i2coled-jpg.372193

PI2040-Zero PIN13 -> SCL PIN12 ->SDA
Ahh thank you!
Post automatically merged:

Hello everyone. This works? I saw him in a group. I have a flex v3 and I want to install it on a lite. Could this work so that the cable does not get in the way so much?
Yes this works.. I’ve done it 2x with lite and works fine. It was v2 flex I used though. Modzville posted that to Twitter.
 
  • Like
Reactions: CarlosGo

AceCuba

Well-Known Member
Newcomer
Joined
Feb 4, 2021
Messages
79
Trophies
0
Age
25
Location
Mi cueva
XP
300
Country
Cuba
Ey guys what is the BEST place fpr 3.3v on v1 and V2 . I dont like That little cap on de power ic

Enviado desde mi Redmi Note 8 mediante Tapatalk
 

themine1500

Active Member
Newcomer
Joined
Apr 24, 2023
Messages
27
Trophies
0
Age
38
XP
82
Country
United States
That blue flashing means glitching.

The first time pico run, it will try the best parameter for the glitching. It will do that normally around 10seconds.
It will stopped when the parameter found. If theres error than there will be yellow blinking the error code.

In your video, its glitching. Its normal, just wait until its done. The parameter will be saved, and the next boot it will be faster.

If it doesn't found it will timeout and throws the yellow code of timeout.
=== Glitch attempt limit reached, cannot glitch

I've meet this timeout glitch error in oled, shifting the dat0 adapter little bit and its works.
I let it run into it turned off and never got any yellow lights. I will try again today. I think it may be the dat0.. it is one with 3 tabs. I think the tab that goes over to the cap is blocking me from getting it in the right place. I have it over against the cap.. I’ve seen older video where sthetix cuts the small extra piece off that tab.. I will try that.
 

Attachments

  • C4F13E44-14D9-4CDC-9C76-2938B2752CAB.jpeg
    C4F13E44-14D9-4CDC-9C76-2938B2752CAB.jpeg
    2.5 MB · Views: 14

Site & Scene News

Popular threads in this forum

General chit-chat
Help Users
  • No one is chatting at the moment.
    OctoAori20 @ OctoAori20: Nice nice-