Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

Makc16384

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IMG_4454.jpg


Here. Well, for about a month everything worked fine. Now I have disconnected all contacts from the rp2040 altogether, but I still get this screen.
 

Takezo-San

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View attachment 374753

Here. Well, for about a month everything worked fine. Now I have disconnected all contacts from the rp2040 altogether, but I still get this screen.
Not of the screen.
The motherboard with the pico.
And did you check for @Dee87 advice on checking the resistor values?

Edit - hmmm everythings disconnected now but still pink. Let me do some research on this pink/purple screen.
 

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Takezo-San

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Its your cmd resistor i bet eather its not connected properly or it doesnt have the correct calue anymore
Yep, my research pointed to the same conclusion. 'CMD resistor - 4.7k 0201'
Check in resistance mode for that value but more than likely its blown so get that replaced (most likely).
Post automatically merged:

Oh no... I don't see a flex, and I doubt you put a pull-down resistor across mosfets before removing the pico...
Good point, @Makc16384 did you use single or double mosfet and did you have a pull down resistor on your mosfet build!? Because you could potentially replace the resistor and fix the issue but a month down the line, the pink screen could return. Can you show us a picture of what your APU looks like under the hood (metal shield) and your mosfet build.
Another point, did you kapton tape/solder mask your solder joints your pico when you finished the install. I mean all around the points of the pico that were not used because they could cause shorts with the metal shielding above and below too.
 
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Makc16384

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Yep, my research pointed to the same conclusion. 'CMD resistor - 4.7k 0201'
Check in resistance mode for that value but more than likely its blown so get that replaced (most likely).
Post automatically merged:


Good point, @Makc16384 did you use single or double mosfet and did you have a pull down resistor on your mosfet build!? Because you could potentially replace the resistor and fix the issue but a month down the line, the pink screen could return. Can you show us a picture of what your APU looks like under the hood (metal shield) and your mosfet build.
Another point, did you kapton tape/solder mask your solder joints your pico when you finished the install. I mean all around the points of the pico that were not used because they could cause shorts with the metal shielding above and below too.
IMG_4102.jpeg
 

Relon

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Last edited by Relon,

Makc16384

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Yep, my research pointed to the same conclusion. 'CMD resistor - 4.7k 0201'
Check in resistance mode for that value but more than likely its blown so get that replaced (most likely).
Post automatically merged:


Good point, @Makc16384 did you use single or double mosfet and did you have a pull down resistor on your mosfet build!? Because you could potentially replace the resistor and fix the issue but a month down the line, the pink screen could return. Can you show us a picture of what your APU looks like under the hood (metal shield) and your mosfet build.
Another point, did you kapton tape/solder mask your solder joints your pico when you finished the install. I mean all around the points of the pico that were not used because they could cause shorts with the metal shielding above and below too.
I checked the resistor. This resistance in one direction is 8.3k, in the other 77k. Apparently it’s really him, I’ll buy it as you said and put it. And what resistor is recommended between the G and S points of the MOSFET?
 

Takezo-San

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Looks clean but I do not see the presence of a resistor between gate and source. First is too replace the resistor.
3 optional options after that:
- Add a resistor to the mosfet
- Or add another mosfet so its a dual setup
- Or add another mosfet with a resistor in dual setup.

Hope that helps.
Post automatically merged:

I checked the resistor. This resistance in one direction is 8.3k, in the other 77k. Apparently it’s really him, I’ll buy it as you said and put it. And what resistor is recommended between the G and S points of the MOSFET?
Let me do some research on the actual resistor location because those values seem way to high and you don't want to be removing the wrong component.

anywhere between 1k - 1mhz. I used 10k, others have used 3k others have used 1k. Main point is, put a pull down resistor there because if not, that leave the current floating, which can cause the mosfet to be partly on for a while. If it's a high-current load, the mosfet can be destroyed.

Check if the mosfet still works and if it does, i would add a 1k to it, if it doesn't I would go ahead and add another mosfet with a resistor on the new build.

Edit - im sure this is the 'cmd resistor' (attached)
 

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SorataVP69

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Latest firmware here

ChangeLog:

v2.0 + Active MMC communication
v2.1 + Toshiba support
v2.2 + Fix Toshiba boot fail
v2.3 + SanDisk support
v2.4 + Faster Toshiba boot
v2.5 + fix OFW boot
v2.6 + software update, xiao & itsy support
v2.61 + Instinct-NX sdloader, bug fixes
v2.62 + Make 16.0.1 happy (fix OFW boot)
v2.63 + roll back some 2.62 boot speed tricks
v2.64 + enable back the board detection
v2.65 + RP Pico support, double reset removed
v2.66 + Bypass to OFW after update for proper fuse burning
v2.67 + Don't bypass to OFW on first install
v2.70 + new LED indication, i2c undervoltage hack
v2.71 + support for SQc open-source board
v2.72 + disable CLK check, it's unstable
v2.73 + add LED signal on success
v2.74 + 300 mhz precision

= is long pulse, * is short pulse:

= USB flashing done

** RST is not connected
*= CMD is not connected
=* D0 is not connected
== CLK is not connected

*** No eMMC CMD1 responce (bad eMMC?)
**= No eMMC block 1 read (should not happen)
*=* No eMMC block 0 read (eMMC init failure?)
*== No eMMC CMD1 request (poor wiring, or dead CPU)

=** eMMC init failure during glitch process
=*= CPU never reach BCT check, should not happen
==* CPU always reach BCT check (no glitch reaction, check mosfet)
=== Glitch attempt limit reached, cannot glitch

=*** eMMC init failure
=**= eMMC write failure - comparison failed
=*=* eMMC write failure - write failed
=*== eMMC test failure - read failed
==** eMMC read failed during firmware update
==*= BCT copy failed - write failure
===* BCT copy failed - comparison failure
==== BCT copy failed - read failure

If your glitch is unstable (==* error), and the proper boot happens only when you press Reset after joycon logo, you can add two more wires to make glitch much better.

board pins:
Waveshare rp2040: SDA=12, SCL=13
Pi Pico: SDA = 19, SCL = 20
XIAO 2040: SDA=3, SCL=4
ItsyBitsy 2040: SDA = 18, SCL = 19

NS points (v2, Lite, OLED):
View attachment 372191
View attachment 372192
View attachment 372193



Q: What is supported?
A: Erista (v1), Mariko (v2, Lite, OLED)

Q: eMMC types support?
A: Tested on Hynix, Samsung, Toshiba, SanDisk

Q: rp2040 boards support
A: WaveShare 2040-zero/one, xiao-rp2040, adafruit itsybitsy (Pi Pico is not supported for now)

Q: GREEN, but instant reset
A: Clean flux near the RST point

Q: Do I really need 47 Ohm resistors?
A: You can skip them, however in this case you will have to use emuMMC due to the line interference, sysNAND would not boot (sysNAND data can be damaged).

Q: Does the firmware has learning? How to reset statistics
A: Short pin 0 to either 1 or GND during start for chip reset. The statistics is collected each boot. The more you start it - the better it boots.

Q: open source?
A: https://github.com/rehius

Q: why you made it?
A: to prove it possible!

Q: run Atmosphere?
A: no piracy

v2.5 firmware had a bug with BOOT0 corruption. To recover it:
- boot "Full Stock" using hekate
- update to the latest official firmware over Wi-Fi

- boot "Full Stock" using hekate
- perform a full system reset

- show firmware information
- update firmware from SD card (place update.bin into the root folder)
- rollback to the backup firmware slot
- reset learning statistics
- dump / write sdloader

if you have an rp2040-zero from waveshare/ali then it has a neopixel. It is used for diagnosing proper firmware flashes as well as console glitching. If you plug it in, and flash the uf2 firmware to it and immediately see a red light after flashing (this is not the same as flashing, then unplugging and replugging), then no rgb jumper needs to be made. If on the other hand, you get one quick green flashing light, then you need to bridge the jumper pads indicated to swap the LED colors for proper diagnoses capability.
Hello, I come to you once again. I bought a Zelda edition console, I proceeded to test it, everything worked fine, I took it apart and started to install picofly, once installed it gave me a clk/CMD error with fw2.67 (the colors of both errors are very similar, so I don't I knew how to identify which one it was exactly) I proceeded to change the wiring of both points and it was still the same, a user suggested I use the most recent fw, I did, now apparently it gives an error in RST, I changed the RST cable to verify that there was continuity in both points and still it keeps giving me an error, what seems strange to me is that clk and cmd give me strange values and I don't know why, if someone can help me please I would appreciate it 🥺🥺🥺 seriously I'm desperate, I already changed the wiring it originally had. I want to cry, the images are of the values in clk and cmd
 

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QuiTim

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Hello, I come to you once again. I bought a Zelda edition console, I proceeded to test it, everything worked fine, I took it apart and started to install picofly, once installed it gave me a clk/CMD error with fw2.67 (the colors of both errors are very similar, so I don't I knew how to identify which one it was exactly) I proceeded to change the wiring of both points and it was still the same, a user suggested I use the most recent fw, I did, now apparently it gives an error in RST, I changed the RST cable to verify that there was continuity in both points and still it keeps giving me an error, what seems strange to me is that clk and cmd give me strange values and I don't know why, if someone can help me please I would appreciate it 🥺🥺🥺 seriously I'm desperate, I already changed the wiring it originally had. I want to cry, the images are of the values in clk and cmd
First update firmware to latest version from the post you quoted and make a video of Pico booting then we'll see whats going on
 

jkyoho

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Hello, I come to you once again. I bought a Zelda edition console, I proceeded to test it, everything worked fine, I took it apart and started to install picofly, once installed it gave me a clk/CMD error with fw2.67 (the colors of both errors are very similar, so I don't I knew how to identify which one it was exactly) I proceeded to change the wiring of both points and it was still the same, a user suggested I use the most recent fw, I did, now apparently it gives an error in RST, I changed the RST cable to verify that there was continuity in both points and still it keeps giving me an error, what seems strange to me is that clk and cmd give me strange values and I don't know why, if someone can help me please I would appreciate it 🥺🥺🥺 seriously I'm desperate, I already changed the wiring it originally had. I want to cry, the images are of the values in clk and cmd
ARE you still making cpu line to rp2040 pin26 and RST to pin15?
Wake up! CPU to pin15 and RST on the PIN26
 

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SorataVP69

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ARE you still making cpu line to rp2040 pin26 and RST to pin15?
Wake up! CPU to pin15 and RST on the PIN26
You are absolutely right, I just put the cpu at 15 and the RST at 26 and everything works, forgive me for making a whole post looking like a drama queen, NOW IT WORKS, THANKS AND SORRY FOR THE INCONVENIENCE
 

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