Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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tigeretonn

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I had a working setup with Trinket M0, after updating to the latest version of Trinket M0 software my switch doesn't boot anymore. I could still inject Samd21_Update.bin and press the reset button twice, but the LED stayed solid red and a drive named FUSEE popped up, does that mean the bootloader is corrupt? Shouldn't I see the LED flashing and a drive named something like XXXXBOOT instead?
I followed the instructions in mattytrog's github, the update process seemed to be successful.

I also have another brand new Trinket M0, tried to flash the same software and ended up with the exact same situation. Once the initial flash was complete I could not get back into the bootloader mode any more. When I press reset twice I only get the FUSEE drive and a solid red led.

I would appreciate any help, TIA!
 

mrdude

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I had a working setup with Trinket M0, after updating to the latest version of Trinket M0 software my switch doesn't boot anymore. I could still inject Samd21_Update.bin and press the reset button twice, but the LED stayed solid red and a drive named FUSEE popped up, does that mean the bootloader is corrupt? Shouldn't I see the LED flashing and a drive named something like XXXXBOOT instead?
I followed the instructions in mattytrog's github, the update process seemed to be successful.

I also have another brand new Trinket M0, tried to flash the same software and ended up with the exact same situation. Once the initial flash was complete I could not get back into the bootloader mode any more. When I press reset twice I only get the FUSEE drive and a solid red led.

I would appreciate any help, TIA!
Press reset twice on the chip in quick succession to get the chip back into programming mode, then drag the original uf2 file you had on it before. You probably had one from here:
https://github.com/mattytrog/FUSEE_SUITE
 

tigeretonn

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Thanks a lot! Reprogramming with original uf2 files worked. Looks like the new version has some issues, the old version was less than a year old.
 
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idSkeetOnU

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hello, i have a question. im running a v1 switch updated to 15.0.0 atmosphere/hekate and i am running an emunand. does this method of installing a trinket m0 still work? if so, can i get the links please? the github page is down
 

idSkeetOnU

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Trinket is a hardware mod, have nothing to do with firmware. trinket is a payload injection method.
dont i need to download 2 different files from links on first page? i bought a trinket m0 but havent done anything yet. i thought i need files to use it
 

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I am having a Deja vú? this exactly question was answered some times on the past? please correct me if I am wrong.
Was still in my cut-buffer from last time. ;-)
Post automatically merged:

For what it’s worth I stayed on v6 because it more closely matches the docs and has more levers to flip.
e: I lied…I’m using one I built myself here.

@impeeza which version of part 2 did you go with on your new one?
 
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idSkeetOnU

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Was still in my cut-buffer from last time. ;-)
Post automatically merged:

For what it’s worth I stayed on v6 because it more closely matches the docs and has more levers to flip.
e: I lied…I’m using one I built myself here.

@impeeza which version of part 2 did you go with on your new one?
which version would u recommend for a v1 switch? i run atmosphere/hekate
 

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Was still in my cut-buffer from last time. ;-)
Post automatically merged:

For what it’s worth I stayed on v6 because it more closely matches the docs and has more levers to flip.
e: I lied…I’m using one I built myself here.

@impeeza which version of part 2 did you go with on your new one?
still thinking, we are on a shortage of chips on my city.
 
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which version would u recommend for a v1 switch? i run atmosphere/hekate
If you want something that matches the documentation and you like editing hex codes to select all options then go with V6. If you just want whats necessary to make things work then go for the cleaned up latest version on GitHub. I like to explore things so the simplified latest one, while better for folks not wanting to futz with things, are less interesting to me. YMMV

Cool thing is that once you get the first UF2 file in place you can swap out part 2 as often as you’d like so feel free to experiment and find the one that works for you.
 
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hello again. i have a dumb question hopefully someone can answer. i bought a trinket m0 from trusted ebay seller and it supposedly comes preinstalled with circuitpy and a example code. is that needed on the trinket or can i erase? if i flash both uf2 files in the bootloader will that get erased? here is a picture of whats on the trinket. untitled2 is the bootloader. (reset button twice)
 

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binkinator

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hello again. i have a dumb question hopefully someone can answer. i bought a trinket m0 from trusted ebay seller and it supposedly comes preinstalled with circuitpy and a example code. is that needed on the trinket or can i erase? if i flash both uf2 files in the bootloader will that get erased? here is a picture of whats on the trinket. untitled2 is the bootloader. (reset button twice)
Yes, it will need to be erased. The code on it is stock and can be downloaded from adafruit if you decide to remove it from your switch and use it for something else in the future. Install the 2 uf2 files and you are good to go.

E:
Fusee_Suite part 1
is sort of the container and flashing it to the trinket will erase everything on it.

Fusee_Suite part 2 is the payload that goes inside the container provided by part 1.

You can reflash different versions of part 2inside part 1 as often as you like without having to reflash part 1.
Part 2 will be the file that you would adjust for different options such as boot animations and colors.
 
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Yes, it will need to be erased. The code on it is stock and can be downloaded from adafruit if you decide to remove it from your switch and use it for something else in the future. Install the 2 uf2 files and you are good to go.

E:
Fusee_Suite part 1
is sort of the container and flashing it to the trinket will erase everything on it.

Fusee_Suite part 2 is the payload that goes inside the container provided by part 1.

You can reflash different versions of part 2inside part 1 as often as you like without having to reflash part 1.
Part 2 will be the file that you would adjust for different options such as boot animations and colors.
thank you.
 
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hello again. i havent performed the chip install yet but i have a couple questions. on the diagram for the trinket, can the 2 pads on the 3v side be bridged or no? also can the joypad side be bridged? sorry if its been answered already
 

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hello again. i havent performed the chip install yet but i have a couple questions. on the diagram for the trinket, can the 2 pads on the 3v side be bridged or no? also can the joypad side be bridged? sorry if its been answered already
i want to know if i can bridge the joycon...
 

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hello again. i havent performed the chip install yet but i have a couple questions. on the diagram for the trinket, can the 2 pads on the 3v side be bridged or no? also can the joypad side be bridged? sorry if its been answered already
i want to know if i can bridge the joycon...
I’m 99.9% certain they are both bridged, but don‘t trust some Rando on the Internet, the best way to be 100% sure is to do a continuity check with a multimeter.
 

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hello again. i havent performed the chip install yet but i have a couple questions. on the diagram for the trinket, can the 2 pads on the 3v side be bridged or no? also can the joypad side be bridged? sorry if its been answered already
Use a good microscope to look on the pink spot and you confirm if the points are bridged or not on the field:

1668608568555.png

On this picture there is no clear, but a microscope will help to solve your question.
 

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