Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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randy_w

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Ohhhh. Very nice. Any new features vs V7?

e: with the transparent back the white chip looks somehow crisper than a M0 would with it’s USB lopped off.
Massive improvements imo. First off you can change the red/white boot logo to black/white. Also there's an option to boot to ofw directly without SD card. The long press vol+ settings menu has also changed a bit. Also there's a built in instruction to using the vol+ button. Very useful stuff as this could be confusing for those never used trinket m0 before.
 

binkinator

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Massive improvements imo. First off you can change the red/white boot logo to black/white. Also there's an option to boot to ofw directly without SD card. The long press vol+ settings menu has also changed a bit. Also there's a built in instruction to using the vol+ button. Very useful stuff as this could be confusing for those never used trinket m0 before.
Very nice. Thank you!

Will try it here in a bit.
 
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binkinator

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Gotcha! Thanks. One last Q: for the joycon rail, the wire would need to go through both pads, correct?
Joycon is the same thing…look closely and you can see that they are joined by a trace on the board. Pads being joined means you can do one or both without concern.

like @randy_w said above, if you can take out the mother board, it’s much easier to tap into the alt touch points on the back. The volume touch point on the front is…mildly infuriating!
 
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Joycon is the same thing…look closely and you can see that they are joined by a trace on the board. Pads being joined means you can do one or both without concern.

like @randy_w said above, if you can take out the mother board, it’s much easier to tap into the alt touch points on the back. The volume touch point on the front is…mildly infuriating!
I heard the same thing about the Vol strap. One video I saw on YT used the pad on the vol+ button itself on the flex ribbon on the top right on the console. Seems to be the safest/easiest way to get that taken care of.
 

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Just finished the installation! All seems to be working well. One thing I noticed though is that the USB voltage strap isnt showing up here. I used a multimeter to test it and it says that the connection is there. Does this mean I got a bad chip?
 

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binkinator

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Just finished the installation! All seems to be working well. One thing I noticed though is that the USB voltage strap isnt showing up here. I used a multimeter to test it and it says that the connection is there. Does this mean I got a bad chip?
Trinkets, as far as I have seen, are pretty sturdy. My joycon wasn’t showing and I went in and flipped the bit in the config using a hex editor and it’s been fine ever since.

e: look at Manually Editing Settings section of the software thread.

https://gbatemp.net/threads/trinket...software-new-fusee_suite-uf2-packages.553998/

you may have to hunt a bit for the repeating/rotating config settings. I typically play around with a boot screen setting or something easy while I get my bearings. (You’ll figure out what that means once you get into it.)
 

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Trinkets, as far as I have seen, are pretty sturdy. My joycon wasn’t showing and I went in and flipped the bit in the config using a hex editor and it’s been fine ever since.

e: look at Manually Editing Settings section of the software thread.

https://gbatemp.net/threads/trinket...software-new-fusee_suite-uf2-packages.553998/

you may have to hunt a bit for the repeating/rotating config settings. I typically play around with a boot screen setting or something easy while I get my bearings. (You’ll figure out what that means once you get into it.)
Thanks for the tip! I didnt change mine manually but flashing one of the Setting.uf2 files on the github fixed it. All straps are now detected!

Thanks again for all your help @binkinator 😁
 
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binkinator

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Thanks for the tip! I didnt change mine manually but flashing one of the Setting.uf2 files on the github fixed it. All straps are now detected!

Thanks again for all your help @binkinator 😁
Good stuff! Yeah, just “jiggling it” seems to be the key. Some things just need a good smack and a reboot!
Glad you’re sorted either way!
 

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What's the main purpose of the USB disconnect strap? I am running Fusee Suite and currently have the USB Strap disabled. Enabling the USB straps in the settings messes up with my USB bluetooth dongle for my switch.
 

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What's the main purpose of the USB disconnect strap? I am running Fusee Suite and currently have the USB Strap disabled. Enabling the USB straps in the settings messes up with my USB bluetooth dongle for my switch.
It's because the payload can't be pushed when something is plugged into the USB port (charger or data cable or whatever). So if you try to boot with the charger plugged in, the chip puts the Switch into RCM, but the payload fails to push, so it just sits there in RCM. Using the USB strap means when you unplug the USB cable, the chip restarts, and pushes the payload so the Switch continues to boot. If you don't use the USB strap, you can also push on the back case of the Switch in the right place to push the button on the chip, which will also restart it and push the payload.
 

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It's because the payload can't be pushed when something is plugged into the USB port (charger or data cable or whatever). So if you try to boot with the charger plugged in, the chip puts the Switch into RCM, but the payload fails to push, so it just sits there in RCM. Using the USB strap means when you unplug the USB cable, the chip restarts, and pushes the payload so the Switch continues to boot. If you don't use the USB strap, you can also push on the back case of the Switch in the right place to push the button on the chip, which will also restart it and push the payload.
Gotcha!! Makes sense. Guess I have to choose between low latency bluetooth audio or the RCM dc strap. Thanks for clarifying!
 
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Ramarc

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Hi Everybody,
I have just received my trinket but I’m a bit lost with all the info in different posts etc.
I’m basically wanting to setup the trinket to allow me to turn off autorcm to save battery.
I currently use the rcmloader but it drains battery if the kids get hold of it.
All I want it to do is boot cfw from sysnand as default but with the option to boot into clean ofw if I want to go online.
I’m not looking to use any of the extra tricks it has to offer, just basic boot settings.
Could somebody let me know which version I need to upload onto the trinket to archive this and what connections I would need.
This would be really appreciated
 

mrdude

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Hi Everybody,
I have just received my trinket but I’m a bit lost with all the info in different posts etc.
I’m basically wanting to setup the trinket to allow me to turn off autorcm to save battery.
I currently use the rcmloader but it drains battery if the kids get hold of it.
All I want it to do is boot cfw from sysnand as default but with the option to boot into clean ofw if I want to go online.
I’m not looking to use any of the extra tricks it has to offer, just basic boot settings.
Could somebody let me know which version I need to upload onto the trinket to archive this and what connections I would need.
This would be really appreciated
Auto rcm is not set by a trinket or any other thing that injects the payload into your switch.

Auto rcm is a flag in the emunand or sysnand that has been set by you to go into rcm mode automatically, If you are using sxos - boot into the sxos menu and disable auto rcm. If using hekate - go to the relevant menu and disable autorcm.
 

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