Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

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RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

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ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

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Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[steve_fox]

Finally finished the soldering on my V1 switch, i was lazy and its been in bits for a while now as i have been using my V2 and didnt have that urgency you would have if your only switch was out of action.

Pleased to say all went well and the Trinket is Booting to CFW but the rear Sheilding does not fit on the back anymore as it fowls on the Trinket.

I have seen some images in google searches where people have left it off, what have you guys done, what are thermals like without it?

I am thinking of using a dremel to cut a window in it just large enough for the trinket to be able to re fit it.

I have soldered to a combination of points on the front and back of the board, basically whatever ones were the largest and most accessible, i highly recommend pulling the board out and soldering to the back for the Vol +, 3.3V and Joycon/RCM strap as you have proper pads and not soldering to tiny Capacitors/microscopic pads next to components and it reduces the risks massively!

Steve

 

[randy_w]

I had the metal shield and the soc/ram cover removed on my switch since i'm using a transparent shell.

Tried running doom for half an hour with max cpu/gpu/ram clock in docked mode, max temperature i get is about 58C on CPU, 48-50 on RAM. So I won't be too worried about it.

 

[steve_fox]

I had the metal shield and the soc/ram cover removed on my switch since i'm using a transparent shell.
View attachment 308372

Tried running doom for half an hour with max cpu/gpu/ram clock in docked mode, max temperature i get is about 58C on CPU, 48-50 on RAM. So I won't be too worried about it.

I also have a yet unused smoked clear back, if temps are not an issue then it would be nice to leave the shielding off!

I have both smoked clear and non smoked clear joycons, the non smoked look super cool Dont they, I wanted SNES style buttons on my right joycon though and smoked clear helps to hide the button flanges inside the shell and makes the buttons more defined, they looked strange in the crystal shells so kept black buttons in those.

I see you also soldered to some points on the back of the board, way better points to solder too aren't they!

Do you know what the score is with going online with system nand on a modded switch?
I have emu nand and I have done the DNS changes on emu nand but out of paranoia I have kept system nand in flight mode but it would be nice to be able to use my V1 for fortnite and only take one console with me if I go away instead of having to use my V2

 

[randy_w]

Do you know what the score is with going online with system nand on a modded switch?

If your sysnand is clean, i.e. you didn't install any nsp/xci file on it or did anything that could lead to a ban (like changing your profile picture), I wouldn't be worried too much. Also remove sys cfw entry in hekate, that way you won't be able to make any changes to sysnand that could lead to a ban.

 

[steve_fox]

If your sysnand is clean, i.e. you didn't install any nsp/xci file on it or did anything that could lead to a ban (like changing your profile picture), I wouldn't be worried too much. Also remove sys cfw entry in hekate, that way you won't be able to make any changes to sysnand that could lead to a ban.

I have a tonne of NXP/XCI on my emunand but have not done anything to my sysnand and have no plans on doing any modifications to it, i know that is a very big no no but wasn't sure what risks going online in a clean sysnand posed when you have a emunand present on your SD, thanks.

At the end of the day, if it did get banned i have my V2 but i would rather it didnt get banned obviously!

 

[DonDonkey]

I try to remove USB port but I destroy it. Is else where can I solder to take the data connection ??

 

[BaamAlex]

if it did get banned i have my V2 but i would rather it didnt get banned obviously!

If you always use an emummc, you should be safe.

 

[randy_w]

when you have a emunand present on your SD

Afaik nobody has been banned for having cfw files on sd card. As long as your sysnand is clean you're good to go.

 

[randy_w]

I try to remove USB port but I destroy it. Is else where can I solder to take the data connection ??

Looks like you need to solder directly to the samd21 mcu pins. There's no alt point available for usb data, they go directly into the mcu.

 

[steve_fox]

I try to remove USB port but I destroy it. Is else where can I solder to take the data connection ??

OUCH!

As mentioned, you can solder to the pins on the Chip but you may also be able to scrape away mask on the traces to it and solder to those but be VERY sure you know were they are before attempting it.

For anyone attempting this, the USB socket has to be removed with a heat gun 'as is', it is soldered to the board via 4 structural legs plus the sockets underside is also soldered plus the 5 data pins and its impossible to remove in one with just a soldering iron.

If you dont have a soldering Iron then get a dremel, beg borrow or steal one if you dont have one and VERY carefully cut the metal in half across the top of the socket and carefully peel it to both sides to be able to then de solder the data pins, then you can desolder the metal body of the socket, even using some force without risk of killing your Trinket.

I have a hot air station but before i owned one, i did the above to safely remove things that were secured by multiple solder points.

 

[binkinator]

There are soldered bits that are there for electrical connectivity and then there are others right next to those that were done for structural integrity to keep all the other bits from moving around AND THEN there are other bits that need to stay in place and have nothing to do with what you're touching so you don't want to touch those at all. I was paranoid af so I held the case of the USB socket aloft with tweezers and ran the hot air over everything until it all fell off by itself due to gravity.

 

[steve_fox]

There are soldered bits that are there for electrical connectivity and then there are others right next to those that were done for structural integrity to keep all the other bits from moving around AND THEN there are other bits that need to stay in place and have nothing to do with what you're touching so you don't want to touch those at all. I was paranoid af so I held the case of the USB socket aloft with tweezers and ran the hot air over everything until it all fell off by itself due to gravity

Paranoia was very much a feature when I did mine, it got everything not being removed covered in kapton tape and the board taped down and I also used tweezers but used very light lofting pressure rather than gravity.

What I also did when it came to soldering the USB is a trick I've used many times to make soldering to the data easy, under the microscope I carefully removed the power traces which meant I only had to worry about keeping D+ and D- separated enough during soldering and not worries about the other pads giving much more room to play with.

I could have soldered to it without but it only took a couple of mins to remove the pads.

 

[binkinator]

I carefully removed the power traces which meant I only had to worry about keeping D+ and D- separated enough during soldering and not worries about the other pads

This is a pro move.

 

[DonDonkey]

OUCH!

As mentioned, you can solder to the pins on the Chip but you may also be able to scrape away mask on the traces to it and solder to those but be VERY sure you know were they are before attempting it.

For anyone attempting this, the USB socket has to be removed with a heat gun 'as is', it is soldered to the board via 4 structural legs plus the sockets underside is also soldered plus the 5 data pins and its impossible to remove in one with just a soldering iron.

If you dont have a soldering Iron then get a dremel, beg borrow or steal one if you dont have one and VERY carefully cut the metal in half across the top of the socket and carefully peel it to both sides to be able to then de solder the data pins, then you can desolder the metal body of the socket, even using some force without risk of killing your Trinket.

I have a hot air station but before i owned one, i did the above to safely remove things that were secured by multiple solder points.

Thank you for your replies I will to try to do it and I come back with new photos.

 

[steve_fox]

Decided to leave the shielding off as it looks too good showing the internals with my smoked transparent back that 'almost' matches my joycons

The shielding does ground the USB socket and the game card slot so dont know what effect removing it has and i would be interested in what effect no shield has on the SWR of the Antennas, they will have been designed and tuned for the ground plane it provides, i did intend on checking the swr with it on and off but ive put my switch back together now.

 

[binkinator]

Decided to leave the shielding off as it looks too good showing the internals with my smoked transparent back that 'almost' matches my joycons

The shielding does ground the USB socket and the game card slot so dont know what effect removing it has and i would be interested in what effect no shield has on the SWR of the Antennas, they will have been designed and tuned for the ground plane it provides, i did intend on checking the swr with it on and off but ive put my switch back together now.

That looks really good man. I don’t think you’re in any danger without the shield. That said I’m surprised it would fit after cutting out a Trinket sized rectangle.

It looks like you mounted it upside down though?!?! (not that it matters one iota!)

 

[steve_fox]

That looks really good man. I don’t think you’re in any danger without the shield. That said I’m surprised it would fit after cutting out a Trinket sized rectangle.

It looks like you mounted it upside down though?!?! (not that it matters one iota!)

yeah, upside down, i mounted it in a way the caused the least hassle and stress on the wires for usb data.

 

[steve_fox]

Can anyone point me to how i remove the Sysnand CFW option from Hekate please, i have been poking around in the options and cant find how to remove it?

 

[Hayato213]

Can anyone point me to how i remove the Sysnand CFW option from Hekate please, i have been poking around in the options and cant find how to remove it?

Check your hekate_ipl.txt

 

[steve_fox]

Check your hekate_ipl.txt

Thankyou