That is because you re measuring the cap not the mosfet. Because the path from Drain>Wire>cap>wire>source is lower
Can you send a link where you got your mosfet on ali? I think we have same mosfets (same packaging) and i am having the SAME problem BUT i already closed the diode . Still same problem ==*. Using different mosfet (from a flex) glitches fine .
This is what i have IRH8342
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100....order_list.order_list_main.57.1e801802JpryCE
Picofly works, No SD Card is shown on boot up. Glitch works. But if I try to boot to OFW (from hekate oder direkt while pressing VOL+/- on boot) I get a purple screen. emmc info says that init fails. init retry count is 10.
I´ve only Instinct V6S chip here. Will it work although?
yes, already tried. But the problem is the boot to OFW. Even when I desolder the picofly completly, there is a purple screen on boot.
OLED rp2040. First had a permanent dat0 . This method failed 1 month later. Reballed the emmc again, and did kamikaze.
Worked for 2 weeks, and now its stuck in infinite glitch === Glitch attempt limit reached .Desoldering the 3.3v and GND from picofly and attempting to boot it "stock" wont work. It doesnt turn on.
Worked for 2 weeks, and now its stuck in infinite glitch === Glitch attempt limit reached .Desoldering the 3.3v and GND from picofly and attempting to boot it "stock" wont work. It doesnt turn on.
https://switchbrew.org/wiki/Panic_codes
You need to check whether its related to bad gpt i.e empty user partition
The cause is mostly the resistors being used, you can find a discussion regarding this issue and possible solutions.
Last edited by Hassal,
I had the same problem 2 days ago with this chip got purple screen on boot when trying to boot to OFW even when I desolder the picofly completely, i also tried old original sxlite and same problem , failed to init retry count is 5 but same problem and the last thing i did is changed the flex cable and it worked fine.
Attachments
First of all - thank you all for creating this Modchip-Thread and sharing your Picofly-Experiences. The GBA-Temp Forum was a huge Influence for me and convinced me to Buy and Mod my Console 
I bought an OLED Switch and a Picofly RP 2040 Kit from Aliexpress similar (exactly the same I think but not 100% sure) to the Picture attached. I was not confident enough to solder everything myself so i thought having FLEX-Cables is a little bit more comfortable. Soldered it to the Board - started the Console - it glitched perfectly to the "NO SD Card" Screen. I can load Hekate and other payloads - Thank you all!
I have (had) 2 Issues so far:
1. I can not Boot to OFW (from Hekate and by pressing the Volume Button - both does not work) or to the patched SysNAND. The Screen simply stays Black (Recovery-Mode ?) and I need to press the Power Button very long in order to force Shutdown the Console. EmuNAND works perfectly (and was intended for Using the Console anyway) and also HEKATE shows no Errors when Checking the NAND.
A Week ago it somehow worked ?? - I was able to boot to the OFW (Hekate + Vol. Button) and the patched SysNAND. I was not able to reproduce it - but i did not try that often. Its unstable at best I would say.
I read about it - something about missing Resistors, which i thought was not necessary since i bought a Kit. Since I only use EmuNAND this is not that much of a Problem. Is there something I soldered wrong ? Are there some possible Disadvantages in the Future ? Is it possible to "heal" ?
2. 2 Days ago I tried to Boot the Console and it went straight to the OFW without the Payload. I tried again and again - and after checking the RP2040-LED I saw that everytime at Boot I got the following Yellow-flashing ERROR-Code:
=* D0 is not connected
My initial Thought was that the DAT0-Adapter (even though I soldered it tight) somehow got a little bit out of Touch.
I shut the Console down, removed the SD-Card, and simply tried to boot again - it worked. Glitched Fine, showed the "NO SD Card" Screen. Shut it down again, Inserted the SD-Card, booted perfectly fine into HEKATE.
Is this some kind of Bug that can occur? In my Opinion it was no Coincidence - it had something to do with removing the SD-Card. It is working fine since then - even though I am not rebooting my Console often. It stays in EmuNAND in the Sleep-Mode most of the Time.
Again - thank you all for the Input. I am very Happy with my modded Console
I bought an OLED Switch and a Picofly RP 2040 Kit from Aliexpress similar (exactly the same I think but not 100% sure) to the Picture attached. I was not confident enough to solder everything myself so i thought having FLEX-Cables is a little bit more comfortable. Soldered it to the Board - started the Console - it glitched perfectly to the "NO SD Card" Screen. I can load Hekate and other payloads - Thank you all!
I have (had) 2 Issues so far:
1. I can not Boot to OFW (from Hekate and by pressing the Volume Button - both does not work) or to the patched SysNAND. The Screen simply stays Black (Recovery-Mode ?) and I need to press the Power Button very long in order to force Shutdown the Console. EmuNAND works perfectly (and was intended for Using the Console anyway) and also HEKATE shows no Errors when Checking the NAND.
A Week ago it somehow worked ?? - I was able to boot to the OFW (Hekate + Vol. Button) and the patched SysNAND. I was not able to reproduce it - but i did not try that often. Its unstable at best I would say.
I read about it - something about missing Resistors, which i thought was not necessary since i bought a Kit. Since I only use EmuNAND this is not that much of a Problem. Is there something I soldered wrong ? Are there some possible Disadvantages in the Future ? Is it possible to "heal" ?
2. 2 Days ago I tried to Boot the Console and it went straight to the OFW without the Payload. I tried again and again - and after checking the RP2040-LED I saw that everytime at Boot I got the following Yellow-flashing ERROR-Code:
=* D0 is not connected
My initial Thought was that the DAT0-Adapter (even though I soldered it tight) somehow got a little bit out of Touch.
I shut the Console down, removed the SD-Card, and simply tried to boot again - it worked. Glitched Fine, showed the "NO SD Card" Screen. Shut it down again, Inserted the SD-Card, booted perfectly fine into HEKATE.
Is this some kind of Bug that can occur? In my Opinion it was no Coincidence - it had something to do with removing the SD-Card. It is working fine since then - even though I am not rebooting my Console often. It stays in EmuNAND in the Sleep-Mode most of the Time.
Again - thank you all for the Input. I am very Happy with my modded Console
I know this thread. As I said before, I changed the resistor several times without success. If it is only he resistor, I thought hekate must be able to init emmc?
And how can I find out if it is a bad gpt andhow to fix it?
First of all - thank you all for creating this Modchip-Thread and sharing your Picofly-Experiences. The GBA-Temp Forum was a huge Influence for me and convinced me to Buy and Mod my Console
I bought an OLED Switch and a Picofly RP 2040 Kit from Aliexpress similar (exactly the same I think but not 100% sure) to the Picture attached. I was not confident enough to solder everything myself so i thought having FLEX-Cables is a little bit more comfortable. Soldered it to the Board - started the Console - it glitched perfectly to the "NO SD Card" Screen. I can load Hekate and other payloads - Thank you all!
I have (had) 2 Issues so far:
1. I can not Boot to OFW (from Hekate and by pressing the Volume Button - both does not work) or to the patched SysNAND. The Screen simply stays Black (Recovery-Mode ?) and I need to press the Power Button very long in order to force Shutdown the Console. EmuNAND works perfectly (and was intended for Using the Console anyway) and also HEKATE shows no Errors when Checking the NAND.
A Week ago it somehow worked ?? - I was able to boot to the OFW (Hekate + Vol. Button) and the patched SysNAND. I was not able to reproduce it - but i did not try that often. Its unstable at best I would say.
I read about it - something about missing Resistors, which i thought was not necessary since i bought a Kit. Since I only use EmuNAND this is not that much of a Problem. Is there something I soldered wrong ? Are there some possible Disadvantages in the Future ? Is it possible to "heal" ?
2. 2 Days ago I tried to Boot the Console and it went straight to the OFW without the Payload. I tried again and again - and after checking the RP2040-LED I saw that everytime at Boot I got the following Yellow-flashing ERROR-Code:
=* D0 is not connected
My initial Thought was that the DAT0-Adapter (even though I soldered it tight) somehow got a little bit out of Touch.
I shut the Console down, removed the SD-Card, and simply tried to boot again - it worked. Glitched Fine, showed the "NO SD Card" Screen. Shut it down again, Inserted the SD-Card, booted perfectly fine into HEKATE.
Is this some kind of Bug that can occur? In my Opinion it was no Coincidence - it had something to do with removing the SD-Card. It is working fine since then - even though I am not rebooting my Console often. It stays in EmuNAND in the Sleep-Mode most of the Time.
Again - thank you all for the Input. I am very Happy with my modded Console
View attachment 421068
Regarding the ofw part you need to change cmd and dat0 on the chip (point a and c on the modchip)
Se this thread and post #158.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/hwfly-shaped-picofly-boards-start-shipping-in-china.632179/page-8
I have good news! Something different has happened! Now it boots to a black screen lol. Took some more photos of other connections, and I double-checked the pico side of the soldering. All looks good! So hey, sharing more photos in case I'm missing something obvious.
OK the black screen was just a loose cable, back to the usual ==*. Double-checked continuity between the wires on the main board and the pico and they look OK, but maybe bad pad connections? I didn't think it would reach the mosfet if these were bad though.
OK the black screen was just a loose cable, back to the usual ==*. Double-checked continuity between the wires on the main board and the pico and they look OK, but maybe bad pad connections? I didn't think it would reach the mosfet if these were bad though.
Last edited by MrScopi,
I don't know if Instinct can fix the problem.
Pink screen without modchip? If yes and it doesn't work with Instinct then the only solution is to install a real HWFLY chip. It was exactly the same with my Lite.
My guess would have been that the problem could have been prevented by this pulldown resistor on the mosfet. But that's just speculation.
I just wanted to report success I had with two Switches, one Lite and a Mariko V2. I purchased a hwfly Lite for the Lite and a core for the Mariko V2. I flashed both with 2.73, installed both and I had success with both. Thank you for all of your hard work on this!
Hi. i bought:
https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/3269...t_main.20.3372caa4dgvbPu&gatewayAdapt=glo2bra
Post automatically merged:
Did you install it with point-to-point welded wire or with flex?
If it was with flex, I recommend that you remove the flex and solder each point directly. There are many reports here on the site from people who have experienced various boot problems into OFW due to the use of these flex adapters.
im not using any flex. its done with wire. Front mosfet install. 30 awg wire. mosfet is "glued" to the cap (glued as in next to)
There are several details that need to be corrected.
What happens to these flux residues around the welding points? why don't you clean the motherboard with ipa?
Did you know that some flux's are energy conductors and can create interference in the operation of the console ?
Not to mention that some cause corrosion in the components. Take a cotton swab or an old toothbrush and clean that residue.
Why are you using the same type of wire for the grd and +3.3v? What about Ground Balance? These are points that require solid electrical stability for the RP2040 to work flawlessly. You didnt even remove the USB port?
Post automatically merged:
Glad to ear it
.Want to share some pic´s of it? Thanks
Post automatically merged:
Look like you are having problems witch Dat0 adapters . Classic . That is way many of us are choosing to do kamikaze.First of all - thank you all for creating this Modchip-Thread and sharing your Picofly-Experiences. The GBA-Temp Forum was a huge Influence for me and convinced me to Buy and Mod my Console
I bought an OLED Switch and a Picofly RP 2040 Kit from Aliexpress similar (exactly the same I think but not 100% sure) to the Picture attached. I was not confident enough to solder everything myself so i thought having FLEX-Cables is a little bit more comfortable. Soldered it to the Board - started the Console - it glitched perfectly to the "NO SD Card" Screen. I can load Hekate and other payloads - Thank you all!
I have (had) 2 Issues so far:
1. I can not Boot to OFW (from Hekate and by pressing the Volume Button - both does not work) or to the patched SysNAND. The Screen simply stays Black (Recovery-Mode ?) and I need to press the Power Button very long in order to force Shutdown the Console. EmuNAND works perfectly (and was intended for Using the Console anyway) and also HEKATE shows no Errors when Checking the NAND.
A Week ago it somehow worked ?? - I was able to boot to the OFW (Hekate + Vol. Button) and the patched SysNAND. I was not able to reproduce it - but i did not try that often. Its unstable at best I would say.
I read about it - something about missing Resistors, which i thought was not necessary since i bought a Kit. Since I only use EmuNAND this is not that much of a Problem. Is there something I soldered wrong ? Are there some possible Disadvantages in the Future ? Is it possible to "heal" ?
2. 2 Days ago I tried to Boot the Console and it went straight to the OFW without the Payload. I tried again and again - and after checking the RP2040-LED I saw that everytime at Boot I got the following Yellow-flashing ERROR-Code:
=* D0 is not connected
My initial Thought was that the DAT0-Adapter (even though I soldered it tight) somehow got a little bit out of Touch.
I shut the Console down, removed the SD-Card, and simply tried to boot again - it worked. Glitched Fine, showed the "NO SD Card" Screen. Shut it down again, Inserted the SD-Card, booted perfectly fine into HEKATE.
Is this some kind of Bug that can occur? In my Opinion it was no Coincidence - it had something to do with removing the SD-Card. It is working fine since then - even though I am not rebooting my Console often. It stays in EmuNAND in the Sleep-Mode most of the Time.
Again - thank you all for the Input. I am very Happy with my modded Console
View attachment 421068
Post automatically merged:
Can you post some pictures of it? Is the console rebooting to ofw without Picofly installed ?
Last edited by Viktorsilva,
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