Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

A-Hacked-Soul

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Welp RIP the spare. Contacts ripped off. :/
 

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lenoa

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kinda bored i want test the rp2040, without cutting it first.
does pin out different from this ( like without remove cap & transistor)?


picutv2-png.364990
 

jeka1981

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I have an issue with V1 unpached switch.
I can enter in hekate but i get black screen in OFW and Atmosphere.
What is wrong ?
 

Flaviocarvalho

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Hi everyone...i recently installed picofly on my switch lite...ibstalled the mosfets...tested and got no sd screen...closed the console and when power on got a yellow/orange light just after blue and loads ofw...can anyone explain where is the problem? (Sorry for my english)
 

MrNatto

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Welp RIP the spare. Contacts ripped off. :/
How did you do that? What gauge wire were you using?

I've been a little rough with my lite flex cable, and that hasn't happened yet. I've creased the hell out of it. I'm a little concerned that might be the cause of my glitch consistency.
 

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Flaviocarvalho

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Hi everyone...i recently installed picofly on my switch lite...ibstalled the mosfets...tested and got no sd screen...closed the console and when power on got a yellow/orange light just after blue and loads ofw...can anyone explain where is the problem? (Sorry for my english)
Please...any help?
 

Warbeast

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question is to use this update after having to go back to the old one when updating OFW
2.66 had the fix to skip hekate after ofw update to allow efuse burn but will skip hekate on 1st boot with a new install

2.67 still has the fix but won't skip to ofw on 1st boot with a new install..
 

Jonas225

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Update picofly chip to v2.67.uf2 (file download is located at top of the page > important posts > firmwares. That will take you to Rhieus post. See firmware drop down menu in his post for 2.67.uf2.
Either solder direct usb A to rp2040 chip and flash via laptop/pc or use toolbox loader to update to 2.67.uf2.

After that. Remove microsd card out of your switch and Boot ur switch in stock / normal. Connect to nintendo and update ur switch to latest nintendo system update. Once your switch is updated to latest version.

Put ur microsd card in pc/laptop and download latest atmosphere, fusee.bin, hekate and nyx. Copy them all over to your micro sd and over write.

Turn off ur switch.
Put ur micro sd back in ur switch. Turn on and thank me!
It's still not working. Tried 2.66, 2.67 but no lock. Updated to 2.67 via toolbox, removed sd card.

Restarted to the "no sd card" screen, presses Vol+- to boot OFW but it blackscreens.

I also get slow emmc errors when backing up emmc. Maybe thats the problem?

Any other ideas?
 
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Ganesha0112

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Hello friends

Today I installed a pico on a V2 Nintendo switch but this is happening

¿Any idea what’s happening?

What can I do to resolve this?
 

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rehius

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I have an issue with V1 unpached switch.
I can enter in hekate but i get black screen in OFW and Atmosphere.
What is wrong ?
This happens because of interference on eMMC lines. After the logo NS switches to the high speed mode. You can test eMMC benchmark in hekate - in perfect conditions you should get around 200-350 MB/s.

To fix that ensure you have resistors on D0, CMD, CLK, the wires are well soldered, short and aligned the same way
Post automatically merged:

Yes, in the 29, 28 and 27 points. 47 ohmz
Same here. Show us pictures of your soldering, looks like it is flawed in some way
 
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achm3t

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Hello! Guys I have a weird problem here. From the beginning: brand new switch oled, successfully updated to 16.0.2 before picofly install. Dat0 was soldered with enameled wire via reballing Hynix emmc. I’ve soldered all other wires to it’s places (but not to rp2040) and booted stock FINE, just to test everything works - and it worked :). Flashed 2.66 to rp2040, soldered all wires and booted to raspberry fly boot logo just fine. Assembled back whole console and saw that 2.67 is out. Tried to update, but fw remains the same 2.66 :(. Then I tried to boot stock and got instant purple screen. According to my knowledge it should be a CMD 4.7k resistor, but it was fine, and replacement to working one did not solved the issue. I decided to reball emmc once again and at the same time check continuity from switch board on pad under emmc ic to the point connected to 4.7k resistor and it was OK. After placing back emmc nothing changed. Hekate boots fine and I decided to check emmc info. Here what I got. Seems like corrupted info in user partition :(. Emmc benchmark passes ok, reading speeds are fine and health of emmc ic is 100%.
So my question what have happened? :). I’ve allready made about 15 oleds with rp2040 from initial 2.5 to 2.66 firmwares and it was always fine. It is definitely not the soldering issue, cause I’ve double checked everything and it boots hekate just fine. May a rp2040 ruin user partition on emmc? Data corruption on reballing process is also unlikely, because boot0/1 partitions are alive and I’ve made boot and raw backups just fine (no errors).
And the second question is how to restore this switch back to working order? Seems that I need to generate user partition, or may be there is an option to restore it, may be info is alive, only partition table is broken?
 

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Type_O_Dev

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Does anyone have any ideas what I am maybe overlooking. I have Waveshare 2040-One I flashed with latest firmware 2.67. I have set “RGB mode” jumped. When I power on the Switch Lite I get a blue then cyan. I have changed mosfet twice.
 

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deeps

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Hello! Guys I have a weird problem here. From the beginning: brand new switch oled, successfully updated to 16.0.2 before picofly install. Dat0 was soldered with enameled wire via reballing Hynix emmc. I’ve soldered all other wires to it’s places (but not to rp2040) and booted stock FINE, just to test everything works - and it worked :). Flashed 2.66 to rp2040, soldered all wires and booted to raspberry fly boot logo just fine. Assembled back whole console and saw that 2.67 is out. Tried to update, but fw remains the same 2.66 :(. Then I tried to boot stock and got instant purple screen. According to my knowledge it should be a CMD 4.7k resistor, but it was fine, and replacement to working one did not solved the issue. I decided to reball emmc once again and at the same time check continuity from switch board on pad under emmc ic to the point connected to 4.7k resistor and it was OK. After placing back emmc nothing changed. Hekate boots fine and I decided to check emmc info. Here what I got. Seems like corrupted info in user partition :(. Emmc benchmark passes ok, reading speeds are fine and health of emmc ic is 100%.
So my question what have happened? :). I’ve allready made about 15 oleds with rp2040 from initial 2.5 to 2.66 firmwares and it was always fine. It is definitely not the soldering issue, cause I’ve double checked everything and it boots hekate just fine. May a rp2040 ruin user partition on emmc? Data corruption on reballing process is also unlikely, because boot0/1 partitions are alive and I’ve made boot and raw backups just fine (no errors).
And the second question is how to restore this switch back to working order? Seems that I need to generate user partition, or may be there is an option to restore it, may be info is alive, only partition table is broken?

sk hynix emmc's are more brittle than others and need a slower temperature rise when removing and reattaching to pcb. what's your heating method and temperature?
Post automatically merged:

Does anyone have any ideas what I am maybe overlooking. I have Waveshare 2040-One I flashed with latest firmware 2.67. I have set “RGB mode” jumped. When I power on the Switch Lite I get a blue then cyan. I have changed mosfet twice.

This might not be the issue here, but putting the mosfet on top of the substrate like this means it is taller than the apu core, which means the shield and cooler will rest on top of the mosfet rather than the apu. not ideal
 

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