Hello, everyboby! My Wii U just stopped spinning the fan. I already replaced the fan, didn't work. Also realized that the fan is working properly. So, the board isn't turning the fan on. To solve it, I decided to plug the wires on the USB port (internal soldering), but I wonder which color does (brown, black and grey one). Could someone help me finding it out? Thanks.
Hi, I have the same problem as you. I have replaced the fan without any success.. Right now I'm scratching my head.. It doesn't seem to be a standard PC 3 Pin Layout..
On pin "1", That I think is Tacho, I get 0V at all occasions.
Pin 2 should be GND.
On pin "3", which I think is +5V, it is ~0,31V when fan is plugged in, not rotating. When I blow in it to get it to rotate I can see that the voltage rises up to 1V at some point.. Which leads me to believe that this is the Supply-pin.
Applying 5 V (from USB) On Pin 3 does get the fan rotating!
Someone know of a testpoint where I can be sure to find 5V (To make sure that there even is a good 5V) ?
Is the fan controlled or full speed at all times?
On pin "1", That I think is Tacho, I get 0V at all occasions.
Pin 2 should be GND.
On pin "3", which I think is +5V, it is ~0,31V when fan is plugged in, not rotating. When I blow in it to get it to rotate I can see that the voltage rises up to 1V at some point.. Which leads me to believe that this is the Supply-pin.
Applying 5 V (from USB) On Pin 3 does get the fan rotating!
Someone know of a testpoint where I can be sure to find 5V (To make sure that there even is a good 5V) ?
Is the fan controlled or full speed at all times?
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Last edited by aevial,
Seems to do the job..
Before soldering the fan somwhere else maybe check the SMD components near the fan. Measure the resistance on each. None should have a zero resistance. The resistors (compontens with R) also shouldn't measure open circuit. The capacitors should show an resitance that increases over time.
Yes, this is probably a better solution. In my case the C195 looks to be guilty. My main issue is a have no idea of this capacitor specs. Does anybody know where we can find this spec? The second point is this capacitor is super small, not sure to have the skills to replace it.
When I'm trying to measure it's resistance I'm getting the error like for an open circuit. So, should I remove it and make a bridge? It should I just remove it? In the seconde cas, If the capacitor is dead what will be the difference if I just remove it?
No don't make a bridge. If the capacitor was just decoupling, what I was hoping for you would be probably fine by just removing it. But you say it's already open, so removing it won't help and briding it will create a short and probably destroy something else.
You probably need a capacitor thats about the right capacitance. Maybe I can measure it next week, but I can't promise
Maybe the capitor is even fine, because if you meausre long enough with the multimeter, it will charge up and then measure open circut. Does your multimete have a capacitor setting?
the things with tree legs are eithe rtransistors or double diodes. Either way you should be able to mesure them in diode mode. In one direction it should measure open circut, in the othe rit should show a voltage.
EDIT: C195 is probably just decoupeling, if you measure open and not short it shouldn't be a problem
You probably need a capacitor thats about the right capacitance. Maybe I can measure it next week, but I can't promise
Post automatically merged:
Maybe the capitor is even fine, because if you meausre long enough with the multimeter, it will charge up and then measure open circut. Does your multimete have a capacitor setting?
Post automatically merged:
the things with tree legs are eithe rtransistors or double diodes. Either way you should be able to mesure them in diode mode. In one direction it should measure open circut, in the othe rit should show a voltage.
EDIT: C195 is probably just decoupeling, if you measure open and not short it shouldn't be a problem
Last edited by SDIO,
Thanks for all the info.
At the beginning I forget to precise that I'm getting 1,5V on the fan pins instead of 5V (I guess that this info matter).
About the C195 should I try discharge it by looking at the voltage with the mutilmeter? When I've got the open circuit on the C195, I was able to observe the increase of R on the C193.
My multimeter doesnt have capacitor setting.
Should I use the diode setting to check all the components between R188 and C195 to see if I have continuity everywhere?
At the beginning I forget to precise that I'm getting 1,5V on the fan pins instead of 5V (I guess that this info matter).
About the C195 should I try discharge it by looking at the voltage with the mutilmeter? When I've got the open circuit on the C195, I was able to observe the increase of R on the C193.
My multimeter doesnt have capacitor setting.
Should I use the diode setting to check all the components between R188 and C195 to see if I have continuity everywhere?
No idea if this will help anyone but I just fixed mine by replacing Q5. It's marked with B2, with a line above the B. Not sure what exactly it is as I was able to scavenge the part off a donor board.
As it might be if interest: black is gnd, grey is power 5V and brown is the slow signal at 1,3V.
There is a GPIO which the firmware can use to turn the 5V on or off and there is a second gpio to controll the slow signal. If it is off (0V) the fan runs at full speed, if it is on (1,3V) the fan runs slow (used for eco mode)
There is a GPIO which the firmware can use to turn the 5V on or off and there is a second gpio to controll the slow signal. If it is off (0V) the fan runs at full speed, if it is on (1,3V) the fan runs slow (used for eco mode)
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