Hacking Trinket M0 installed inside the switch

mattytrog

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For fitting inside the switch without butchering the shielding and fitting USB shims, you need to solder to the qfn package directly for the USB data in/out pins to the testpoints behind the C connector. Use .5mm magnet wire. You can solder to the back of the micro USB but its harder than going to the qfn directly. Still tight though. For power, you need to remove board and flip it over for a switched 3.3v point on the board. There are none on the immediate side facing you.

So, your options are to (what I`ve done) lift left-most leg on LDO regulator - dont break it, connect directly to battery (the batt and gnd pins) piggybacking off the battery leads or a testpoint near the battery and a ground(better option). The lifted leg on the LDO regulator, you fit another piece of magnet wire and run this to a 1.8v feed test point. Lifting this leg turns the LDO into a kind of relay, using the 1.8v lifted leg to power on the 3.3v from the battery. Still havent done a write up yet but I will.
 
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fishburn1080

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DgOkBvEXkAIGpLB
DgN_qAdWkAIGAm7
Thanks mattytrog for the info. I talked with X41 on Twitter and showed me a pic of what X41 did and pic from @Reboot_MS +D/-D spots.
 
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mattytrog

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DgOkBvEXkAIGpLB.jpg
Thanks mattytrog for the info. I talked with X41 on Twitter and showed me a pic of what X41 did and pic from @Reboot_MS +D/-D spots.

The only problem fitting it on top of the battery is that the shielding doesnt sit right. Bit of a bulge. I ran all my magnet wire out of the bottom of the shielding, fastened shielding back on and stuck it here...20180614_142429[1].jpg 20180614_142608[1].jpg

The added bonus is that you can click the back cover twice to get it in download mode by gently flexing the back. You can update payload from usb-c then (once switch os turned off with cable connected to avoid conflicts...
 
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leerz

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does this mean that it is always plugged in? this will incur some drain on the batt.
we could probably do a momentary switch mod or a reed switch mod that will trigger both rcm mode and the power line of the board?

I'm not really familiar if there's a onetime use switch where it will stay open after being on for a certain x time :) that could work with the supply.

also why magnetwire? kindly enlighten me, will kynar or wirewrapping 30 awg wire work?

I'm curious if it this might cause some sort of surge when in dock mode.

amazing stuff btw!


--edit--- is this what i think it is? holysht that's amazing lool
a modchip that is made to sit inside the switch?
DgN_qAdWkAIGAm7
Thanks mattytrog for the info. I talked with X41 on Twitter and showed me a pic of what X41 did and pic from @Reboot_MS +D/-D spots.
 
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thaikhoa

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That tiny soldering guy must hate being tiny. Bet a soldering iron to him is like a javelin over his shoulder

Here is some... I dunno. Inspiration I guess?

What if I don't want to use the power switch (on/off)? Am I still able to use memloader or docked mode as I can see it connect to D+/- on the Trinket?

Is it possible to put the Trinket on sleep mode and disconnect D+/- after a period of time?

Thanks for the amazing mod.
 
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mattytrog

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OK. To answer some questions...

I have had these trinkets in a few configurations but this one is the easiest and least "kill-the-switch"able.

The Batt on the trinket goes to the + test point.
The Gnd on the trinket goes to one side of a tactile microswitch (6 x 6 x 6).
The two wires on the top... 1 is going to the gnd testpoint, the other is going to the other side of the switch. I have connected it there as the pad is just a mounting hole for the trinket. It isn`t connected to anything. Not even connected to GND thru the trinket. It is completely isolated.

The trinket goes to sleep freeing up the D pins. However, it stays energised and it will run your battery down eventually. And I mean eventually. Current draw is miniscule.

I used a 4mm drill bit to go through the shield and the casing making it as neat as i could.
I mounted the switch in the bottom corner as pictured.

So, the procedure goes...

Console powered off... You press power and it goes into RCM (autoRCM should be enabled)
Press the tactile switch for 2 seconds and you are booted.

I fitted the tactile switch so the trinket isn`t powered all the time

I trimmed the metal shielding and replaced the heatsink compound at the same time. It now has Arctic Ceramic on it instead of that plasticine nintendo uses in the factory.

If you wanted to disconnect the power automatically after say three seconds of being energised, use a 555 timer and a transistor and associated correct resistors. Make sure you properly saturate the t****** though. Or use a FET. Loads of possibilities. But this is easier for less geeky people!
 
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