Tutorial  Updated

Trinket Internal Install.

Here's A Guide To Installing The Trinket M0 Into The Switch.

Program The Trinket Before You Remove The Usb Port, Saves You Doing It After You Complete The Install.

First Thing To Do Is Remove The Usb Port From The Trinket, If You Have A Hot Air Wand Then Use That To Remove The Port It Will Reduce The Risk Of Damage To The Pads.

usb intact.jpg


Now That The Usb Port Has Been Removed You Want To Solder Wire To The Data Pads, White = Data- And Green Data+ In This Guide.

Now Solder Wire To The Bat Pad = Red, Gnd Pad = Black, Pad 4 = Orange & Pad 3 = Brown In This Guide.

Also Remove The Resistor Next To The Ppower Led Mark Out In Purple In This Guide.
Trinket Points.jpg


When You Have The Trinket All Prepared, You Can Now Proceed To The Install To The Switch.
trinket install points.jpg


Once The Install Is Completely Done Then Clean Up The Points You Have Soldered To Using Isopropyl And Cotton Buds/Q-Tips.
Finished.jpg



Alternative Point For Pad 4.

Altternative Pad 4 Point.jpg


Alternative Points For Joycon Rail Pin 10.

If You Decide On Using This Alternative Point Then Use Enamel Coated Jumper Wire 0.10mm.

Alt Joycon Rail Pin 10 Point.jpg


Remember Take Your Time It's Not A Race lol. Rushing Can Lead To Mistakes.

Tools Required.

Kynar Wire 30 AWG.
Soldering Iron.
Hot Air Wand For Usb Port Removal(Optional)
Isopropyl.
Cotton Bud/Q-Tips.
Flux.
Solder.
Enamel Jumper Wire (Optional)


Thanks And Credit Goes To Xboxexpert For This Solution.

I Think That Covers Everything.

EDIT..

here's another method for the install of the trinket, this method does away with the pad 4, as some may find it tricky to solder to the cap used on the mobo.

the rst pad is used instead and the wire is linked to the power button, Also this has a bonus that you can double press the power button to put the trinket into boot loader mode for uploading a new payload.

of course you don't have to use the rst pad at all, you can't just press power button and volume up button, then press reset button for rcm mode.

this method should be ok for the novices.

install at your own risk.

another install.jpg


the pad on the power button to use.

power button point.jpg


i have one more method to try but I really think this one is not to bad method.

the more methods the better I say, of course to try and make it as easy as possible for pros and novices.

EDIT...
another method for the install of the trinket.

this method is basically same as all other methods, just a different points uses for the bat pad and rst pad.

this install will allow you to have the trinket power off when you fully power off the switch.

double press the reset button on the trinket to get into boot loader mode, this may take a couple of attempts to do.

the payload that you use already will work with this method no need for new ones.

here's the diagram for method 3, you could possibly have this as a 4 wire install, if you install auto rcm mode, but as my sd card module port is buggerd I couldn't test that out.

twinket power off.jpg


ok it seems method 3 needs auto rcm installed for it to work without the need to use the rst pad

so for them that don't want to use auto rcm mode then solder a wire from rst pad to the point on the power button, and use pad 3 to the pin 10 on the joycon rail or one of the alt points on mobo.

beware the alt points are small so use at your own risk.

ok anyone with changing issues test these 2 points, you should get 5v on the usb port side, and around 3.2v on the switch side.

if your getting the volts on the switch side that are fluctuating up & down then replace the part with the v on top it's a diode, you want one that fits so the actual size is either 0402 or 0603 in dimension (i'm using 0402/0603 as an example for size purpose only)

around page 16 has more info about this component..

dont come moaning if you damage your console doing this install, i'm not responsible for you opening or taking a soldering iron to your console.
you do this at your own risk any damage is down to yourself.


charger_issue_volts.jpg


another thing if your trinket starts to get very hot to the point you can't touch it, then the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic is on it's way out, so you will need to replace the ic or just replace your trinket.

at some point it wont power up after this has happened.
1 = gets very hot.
2 = reset starts to become tempermental .
3 = dead
4 = fix replace the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic

edit

added uf2 drag and drop files for r4 trinket gemma dongles or for a 4 wire internal install.

atmosphere
hekate 4.2
Sxos
rajnx
reinx
 

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Last edited by M-O-B, , Reason: added updated uf2 file.

Maximize0987

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right where we are connecting its getting about 4.2v, so I imagine a small amount could be wasted there. I don't think removing the other LED is going to save much since it is only on a few seconds at boot.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

right where we are connecting its getting about 4.2v, so I imagine a small amount could be wasted there. I don't think removing the other LED is going to save much since it is only on a few seconds at boot.
maybe when I do my next I'll look for a 1.8v spot, but I don't think much is lost the way it is.
 

mattytrog

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My first one, I fitted a flush-fitting tactile switch through the back case. Looks like it is meant to be there. No arguments then about what the trinket does on that particular switch.
 

mrdude

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right where we are connecting its getting about 4.2v, so I imagine a small amount could be wasted there. I don't think removing the other LED is going to save much since it is only on a few seconds at boot.

I've you're supplying 4.2v and it's being regulated to 3.3v - your converting 1v to heat - which is a waste, best using a lower voltage supply point as stated and bypass the regulator - that way you're not wasting anything and the processor is turned off when the switch is off.
 

mattytrog

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I feel I should point out that the SAMD has its own built-in regulator. Not much good if you are running motors and things, but for pushing the payload, it works fine. I only know because I damaged a leg on a regulator on one of mine. It will (at least in my case) be perfectly happy without it. Test the theory... The 3v pad is connected to the output on the regulator... Try running the trinket with a 4.7 ish supply (the switch battery) straight to the 3v pad. Remove the regulator if you wish. It will work fine.
 

_gianno

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the whole op is a guide are you retarded?

Asking for a guide on how to make dongle not solder it on my switch. Not enough time to spend on solder it in.
Hope you can write without offense anybody otherwise do not reply I do not want to talk with idiots.
 

NO_ob

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Asking for a guide on how to make dongle not solder it on my switch. Not enough time to spend on solder it in.
Hope you can write without offense anybody otherwise do not reply I do not want to talk with idiots.
why'd you reply then?
 

M-O-B

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Asking for a guide on how to make dongle not solder it on my switch. Not enough time to spend on solder it in.
Hope you can write without offense anybody otherwise do not reply I do not want to talk with idiots.

if you need a guide on doing a dongle then I sort one out, but still requires soldering. but it's a lot less risky than this one..

dongle_diagram.jpg


this one requires a micro usb male to type c male, which are easy to make.

dongle_v2.jpg
20180623_071429.jpg
20180623_090000.jpg
 
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_gianno

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if you need a guide on doing a dongle then I sort one out, but still requires soldering. but it's a lot less risky than this one..

Thanks a lot M-O-B! I'm going to make a dongle using trinket and coin base 20mm w/ switch on/off. With these components i've found the result is a lot better and smaller. I'm going to follow your guide for microusb to usb c part.
 

M-O-B

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This might be a better board to buy, it's much smaller - no need to remove the usb port and contains the same microprocessor as the trinket m0:

http://www.avdweb.nl/arduino/samd21/sam-15x15.html

What's you thoughts?

egqu8n.jpg

if I can source one then I'll give this one a try, only downside would be you'd need to add a reset switch, otherwise no reprogram of it and that's only if it works.

Thanks a lot M-O-B! I'm going to make a dongle using trinket and coin base 20mm w/ switch on/off. With these components i've found the result is a lot better and smaller. I'm going to follow your guide for microusb to usb c part.

a guide is here if you need that info also, I will update the post with updated files later adding hekate ctcaer 3.0 and also drag and drop files so no need to use the arduino software.

https://gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-flash-the-trinket-m0-using-arduino.508886/
 

_gianno

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if I can source one then I'll give this one a try, only downside would be you'd need to add a reset switch, otherwise no reprogram of it and that's only if it works.



a guide is here if you need that info also, I will update the post with updated files later adding hekate ctcaer 3.0 and also drag and drop files so no need to use the arduino software.

https://gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-flash-the-trinket-m0-using-arduino.508886/

I'm going to use the SXOS file uploaded in this thread https://gbatemp.net/threads/trinket-m0-sx-loader.508068/

EDIT: Do you think a micro usb to usb C cable work or I must use micro usb to usb A HUB?
 
Last edited by _gianno,

M-O-B

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_gianno

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mattytrog

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If you want something with built-in battery header and integral on/off switch, I recommend a Gemma M0. I have a few and they work very well. Bound to really since they are SAMD based like the trinket...
 
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_gianno

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If you want something with built-in battery header and integral on/off switch, I recommend a Gemma M0. I have a few and they work very well. Bound to really since they are SAMD based like the trinket...

Thanks a lot. Unfortunately that's too late, i've already bought trinket m0 and coin cell breakout seems like it works well too.

@mattytrog from your post https://gbatemp.net/threads/trinket-m0-sx-loader.508068/ does sxloadertrinketm0.zip works to inject payload sxos payload from usb right?
 

mattytrog

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Thanks a lot. Unfortunately that's too late, i've already bought trinket m0 and coin cell breakout seems like it works well too.

@mattytrog from your post https://gbatemp.net/threads/trinket-m0-sx-loader.508068/ does sxloadertrinketm0.zip works to inject payload sxos payload from usb right?

Yes. Correct.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

In mattytrogs world, I use trinkets for internal mods and Gemmas for SX Pro clones. You can fit a TP4056 board to charge a Lipo battery if needed. Gemmas are ideal for coin batteries as they are erm... round.
 
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Girulo

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Hello, just registered here when i found out about the internal option. I have 2 simple question:
- Is out there a manual how to program the Trinket M0
- Soldering the pins 3 and 4, then i understand that is not necessary any JIG/MOD on the right controller?

Thanks a lot!
 

mattytrog

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Ok.

  • Unless you are using AutoRCM, you will need a jig every coldboot.
  • The trinket m0 can be programmed using ready-made UF2 files. Just draw and drop. See the SX loader thread for more info
  • Pins 3 and 4 are not necessary if using externally. Just a micro-usb to usb-c adapter and a power source.
Good luck.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Hello, just registered here when i found out about the internal option. I have 2 simple question:
- Is out there a manual how to program the Trinket M0
- Soldering the pins 3 and 4, then i understand that is not necessary any JIG/MOD on the right controller?

Thanks a lot!
 

_gianno

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Yes. Correct.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

In mattytrogs world, I use trinkets for internal mods and Gemmas for SX Pro clones. You can fit a TP4056 board to charge a Lipo battery if needed. Gemmas are ideal for coin batteries as they are erm... round.

I'm thinking in enter in mattytrogs world. In amazon.it i've found it at 15€, searching for coin cell battery holder on amazon.it

The process is the same for trinket m0 and Gemmas right?
 

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