Switch OLED teardown V1/V2

[JustaGuywearingPants]

ok guys thanks for your help

Ive just checked if the switch is stuck in rcm and it definitly is not, my pc ist not recognizing it and tegrarcm is also not so i totaly dont know what to do

Cpu is still getting warm so there is definitly electric activity going on

Edit: after working a bit around the cpu caps the switch was finaly booting again, seems like there was one cap shorted

 

[FR0ZN]

That's super pointless and won't be added

Is the payload written to an empty area in BOOT0?
Or "somewhere" random, overwriting parts of it?

 

[HellsBoyz]

I have SX Lite installed on Oled, flashed it to Spacecraft 0.2. Now I want to update its firmware, to v0.6.2, what do I need to do?

 

[ViOTeK]

I have an install that I updated to 0.6.2, that went fine, but it seems to get to the training stage, then after about 30 seconds, blinds orange a few times, and starts over. Ideas where to start? All my diode readings seem ok except dat0 is a bit high at 830.

 

[doom95]

Use USB breakout + putty to diagnose

 

[ViOTeK]

Thanks, should've thought of trying that. That said...

I FIXED IT. YES! Working install finally!!

Needed re-do the CPU cable was all..

You've no idea how pumped I am haha.. Thanks a ton to this community and all your help. Time to finish reassembly and play some games. Win!

** Edit: It's never that easy is it.. Got the fan and shield re-installed, tested again with a payload on SD card and, nope, orange blinky errors.. WTF.. Ok don't panic, it did work... Check the connections.. Grounding on CLK, wtf? Ooops, the heatsink screw caught and crushed the wire just ever so slightly. Moved it and stuck it out of the way with hot glue, which also sealed it up nicely. Bingo bango, works again. Thank, effin, god.

Also, in case it happens to someone else... Partitioning the SD card in Hekate to setup a trimmed EMUMMC blows away Atmosphere, and everything else. Got the nice old "error while loading fss0" error. Had to copy it all back after. So after multiple scares, yet again.. All good now!

 

[TheUnknownOne]

Thanks, should've thought of trying that. That said...

I FIXED IT. YES! Working install finally!!

Needed re-do the CPU cable was all..

You've no idea how pumped I am haha.. Thanks a ton to this community and all your help. Time to finish reassembly and play some games. Win!

** Edit: It's never that easy is it.. Got the fan and shield re-installed, tested again with a payload on SD card and, nope, orange blinky errors.. WTF.. Ok don't panic, it did work... Check the connections.. Grounding on CLK, wtf? Ooops, the heatsink screw caught and crushed the wire just ever so slightly. Moved it and stuck it out of the way with hot glue, which also sealed it up nicely. Bingo bango, works again. Thank, effin, god.

Also, in case it happens to someone else... Partitioning the SD card in Hekate to setup a trimmed EMUMMC blows away Atmosphere, and everything else. Got the nice old "error while loading fss0" error. Had to copy it all back after. So after multiple scares, yet again.. All good now!

View attachment 302195

Congrats, it's always a good feeling, especially when you do it yourself.

 

[one-piece]

Did

Any ideas on why my RST point will not show a diode reading? Have tried with 3 multi-meters now, including a brand new one, same thing with all of them. I only get a reading if I reverse the leads and use red on the ground and black on the RST point. That said, with the new meter my readings are more in line with the others I've seen:

DAT0 = .700
CLK = .695
CMD = .691
RST = nothing with black on ground, reversing the polarity I see 415, same thing occurs directly at RST solder point.
3.3v = .712
GND = 0

Did you found the cause of this?, this also happened to me

 

[randy_w]

Did
Did you found the cause of this?, this also happened to me

It's normal if you don't get any reading from RST (B). Every multimeter is different, some might not push high enough voltage on diode mode so it won't even register. My oled's RST point voltage drop is about 2.7V. As long as point A B and D readings are around 700mV you are good.

 

[TheUnknownOne]

For those of you using 36awg enameled wire, stop. For dat0 it is prone to losing signal.

Stick with the UL10064 wire only.

 

[doom95]

Only if you solder it poorly. And stripping enameled wire is usually done in incorrect ways. Placing a piece of (still insulated) wire in a liquid blob will appear strongly soldered once the blob turns solid, but obviously electrical contact is unreliable.
If you use enameled wire, make sure you have proper strippers for them.

 

[one-piece]

It's normal if you don't get any reading from RST (B). Every multimeter is different, some might not push high enough voltage on diode mode so it won't even register. My oled's RST point voltage drop is about 2.7V. As long as point A B and D readings are around 700mV you are good.

DAT0 always get 950 on my multimeter is 950 or nothing while moving the little part. Is that normal? Other points also give me 950, G beep and B doesn't show anything

 

[randy_w]

DAT0 always get 950 on my multimeter is 950 or nothing while moving the little part. Is that normal? Other points also give me 950, G beep and B doesn't show anything

950 is a bit high but i believe it's still within range, now if you move the adapter and it disconnects, then it's not normal. Try to push the adapter inside with tweezers and reflow those anchor points, this will give some tension to the ribbon adapter and it'll make good connection to the bga ball. Alternatively you can reflow the emmc chip

 

[one-piece]

950 is a bit high but i believe it's still within range, now if you move the adapter and it disconnects, then it's not normal. Try to push the adapter inside with tweezers and reflow those anchor points, this will give some tension to the ribbon adapter and it'll make good connection to the bga ball. Alternatively you can reflow the emmc chip

Well idk what happened but i reflow the weakest joints. B and Dat0 and now it work i thought I fried my new oled

 

[TheUnknownOne]

Well idk what happened but i reflow the weakest joints. B and Dat0 and now it work i thought I fried my new oled

Were you using the enameled wire in 36awg? If so I still say it's cause it's junk

 

[vailon_yg]

Zero wires design, please check the video:
https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1PL4y1M7YJ?spm_id_from=333.999.0.0

 

[one-piece]

Were you using the enameled wire in 36awg? If so I still say it's cause it's junk

I was using the 34 awg that ModzvilleUSA recommend on his video, was before stethix latest video.

The problem with my conections was more likely because of the cheap soldering tin that came with the soldering iron from ali. When i changed the tin it then when smoothly, so what i did was to reflow the first conections with the new tin and it worked.
My only past experience with soldering was to change the battery of the NGC

 

[TheUnknownOne]

I was using the 34 awg that ModzvilleUSA recommend on his video, was before stethix latest video.

The problem with my conections was more likely because of the cheap soldering tin that came with the soldering iron from ali. When i changed the tin it then when smoothly, so what i did was to reflow the first conections with the new tin and it worked.
My only past experience with soldering was to change the battery of the NGC

I use Kester solder. This 'chip failing after a few days to a week' issue is starting to happen to others who have been using enameled wire from what I've been seeing as well. I redid mine with 36awg UL10064 wire and it instant boots pretty much every single time now whereas before sometimes I'd have to wait a bit for the purple pulsing to go to green. All wiring routed the exact same way as when I had the enameled.

But hey, to each their own. Since you used 34awg that would likely be able to hold up a bit more than the 36awg though.

 

[TheUnknownOne]

View attachment 303375Zero wires design, please check the video:
https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1PL4y1M7YJ?spm_id_from=333.999.0.0

I'm not sure why the hell anyone would bother using a chip designed for the lite still with this ribbon. Specific OLED chips are out now so just use those.

 

[adeptb]

Hello guys, need some help to reviwe my oled.
I did oled hwfly, it worked fine, but i used too big wires, so shell of the console was not fitting well. I tried to re do it and my emmc adapter was broken
Okay, i got another emmc adapter, and after first turn on i got flashing purple -> teal light. Next turns on i got flasing purple (4-5 sec, nintendo logo rebooting several times) -> red light and OFW booting on.

DAT0 - 760
CLK - 760
A - 760
3.3v - 834
gnd - beep
Rst - 0 no beep

Where is the problem? Could i damaged something under emmc and got two lines shorted?