it's just a signal and not vcc. And how electronic boards work, if you ground a signal, it doesn't break anything, just malfunctioning. In this instance, doesn't boot because clock signal is interrupted.
This is what I thought, im sure there's quite a few people who have or will end up doing this, thankfully I did not, that point is insanely tiny. But that's what a microscope is forit's just a signal and not vcc. And how electronic boards work, if you ground a signal, it doesn't break anything, just malfunctioning. In this instance, doesn't boot because clock signal is interrupted.
that seems like a bad choice since theyre not accurate like just scraping with a tweezer youll remove solder mask all around on the ground pad which will make bridging easyI've modded a couple OLED's already, what I meant was I haven't screwed up any of them yet. I was just wondering what happens if you mess up that point.
I've ordered one of those grinding pens for doing repairs and this will likely be a much better way to expose that CLK point.
Good to know. I'll practice on some dead boards first.that seems like a bad choice since theyre not accurate like just scraping with a tweezer youll remove solder mask all around on the ground pad which will make bridging easy
first try it boot. thanks. u re the bestif flashable modchip, use firmware 0.6.2
else, flash sdloader.enc from 0.6.2 using hwfly toolbox.
Either the drop dmgd it or your soldering skills did or it's not properly cleaned up after removalHi guys need help
I installed a hx core to a switch, everything worked, it fell down, didnt work anymore, tried to resolder sp1 and sp2 and one of them burned off so i wanted to install the same chip to another console but the flex cable was burned out, i tried to install it with the backside plates but on the new switch i still ended up with a instant green to red led switch
Ive already ordered a oled specific chip, my problem now is after removing the hwfly core from the new switch (but without removing any wires or dag0 adapter from the switch itsself) the switch is not bootable anymore… there are no burninga that i could spot and no solder bridges… the seitch just stays with a black screen even when a charger is plugged in but i can feel that the cpu is getting warm. Lcd connector looks fine also
Will the oled specific chip maybe fix it, is the nand corrupted by the old chip?
But this is a new switch wirh no burned caps, no shorts, no visible burningsEither the drop dmgd it or your soldering skills did or it's not properly cleaned up after removal
I wouldn't recommend you installing another chip up you literally burnt caps off and melted the flex cable
I know it's possible to restore a clean boot0 with the chip installed. My buddy did it when trying to figure out exactly what chip was put in his OLED. I can try to find out how he went about doing it, though I know it put his chip in a weird state where it wouldn't glitch for a while, I think he had to reset the chip over USB Serial.Afaik the payload is written to BOOT0, which breaks the signature.
The black screen indicates that the switch might be in RCM mode - you could check that with TegraRcmGUI.
The process for Auto RCM is to "destroy" the BOOT0 signature, that's why it came to mind.
The right process to remove the modchip probably would be to restore a clean BOOT0 backup and THEN removing the modchip.
EDIT: @doom95 - is it possible to add an "Dump clean BOOT0" option to the HWFLY Toolbox?
If I'm not mistaken, there is currently no way to get a dump of BOOT0 without the payload from Hekate.
An option in the toolbox, that dumps BOOT0 without the SD Loader inside would be awesome <3
The question is how he created a clean BOOT0 - restoring it is not an issue.I know it's possible to restore a clean boot0 with the chip installed. My buddy did it when trying to figure out exactly what chip was put in his OLED. I can try to find out how he went about doing it, though I know it put his chip in a weird state where it wouldn't glitch for a while, I think he had to reset the chip over USB Serial.
Reading/writing BOOT0 does not require glitching the device. But, in order to have a meaningful way to of dumping the BOOT0 contents, we need access to either the SD card, or expose the contents over i.e. MTP. These latter 2 obviously require tegra intervention and thus unsigned code execution, which on Mariko and later is only achieved through glitching into a user-written payload inside BOOT0.EDIT: @doom95 - is it possible to add an "Dump clean BOOT0" option to the HWFLY Toolbox?
If I'm not mistaken, there is currently no way to get a dump of BOOT0 without the payload from Hekate.
An option in the toolbox, that dumps BOOT0 without the SD Loader inside would be awesome <3
I mean adding it as an option in the toolbox.Reading/writing BOOT0 does not require glitching the device. But, in order to have a meaningful way to of dumping the BOOT0 contents, we need access to either the SD card, or expose the contents over i.e. MTP. These latter 2 obviously require tegra intervention and thus unsigned code execution, which on Mariko and later is only achieved through glitching into a user-written payload inside BOOT0.
So yes, chicken & egg, mostly, although it'd technically be possible as a function of the firmware by dumping BOOT0 over USB. Not something I'll add though since I see absolutely no point in doing so. There's 4 identical bct entries, we corrupt only two. The firmware even has a way of restoring the 3rd/4th on empty eMMC chips. If you remove your modchip, it'll just boot from those. Next OFW update, they're all restored.
Yes but is it not possible to read BOOT0 without the payload inside?You do realize that in order to execute hwfly toolbox, you need to contaminate the BOOT0 first so that you can run your own payload..?