Switch OLED teardown V1/V2
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Actually you should use latest spacecraft. SX stuff doesn't fully support OLED model.
That's very unlikely - the only other alt point for CLK is under the eMMC, so we can count overselfs VERY lucky, that CLK is at least exposed on the mainboard
I realy wish, they would consider / look at my idea here:
https://gbatemp.net/threads/switch-oled-teardown-v1-v2.600550/page-14#post-9641007
This way they can route DAT0, CLK, CMD and 3v3 from under the eMMC out with a flex cable.
You would only need to solder 1 wire (NRST), which is on the same side as the eMMC - this wire could be piggybacked to the flex cable, similar to their method.
Interesting times nontheless - we are approcainh clean installs
When you say Under the eMMC do you mean under the BGA package?That's very unlikely - the only other alt point for CLK is under the eMMC, so we can count overselfs VERY lucky, that CLK is at least exposed on the mainboard
I realy wish, they would consider / look at my idea here:
This way they can route DAT0, CLK, CMD and 3v3 from under the eMMC out with a flex cable.
You would only need to solder 1 wire (NRST), which is on the same side as the eMMC - this wire could be piggybacked to the flex cable, similar to their method.
Interesting times nontheless - we are approcainh clean installs
I've done a few by now and while initially I believed in the merit of a sandwich solution, I no longer feel that way. Shoving the DAT0 adapter under + scraping off the CLK signal takes much less time than removing the eMMC and reattaching it, either by reballing or deadbugging; 19 wires is significantly more than the rest of the entire install. Cutting the SoC shield, scraping with fiberglass or grinding pen, and then running wires + tacking them down can be done pretty quickly.
I have watched this several times and am still a bit confused. Ive ordered a couple of them from taobao so will have look when they turn up.
This carries over the D0,3v3 and GND from the MMC but as I see it you still need to solder the CMD, CLK and RST to the ribbon on this side, I guess it will make the install neater though? I thought you had to put the 3v3 and GND through the capacitor slot on the side of the SXlite, can you put it through the top ribbon cable?
As long as there's an electrical connection it will likely work fine. Regardless, tapping the DC supply from a nicely decoupled capacitor which additionally gives pretty good rigidity should be preferred. We are doing a very specific, super precisely timed voltage glitch on a modern SoC after all.
I prefer soldering all my connections. There's nothing worst then an intermittent issue in electrical devices.
I keep reading that the diode reading for dat0 should be 500-700 but I keep getting around 820. Can someone give me some pointers or let me know if it's safe to solder mask it on and proceed?
Very most likely, yes. If you don't trust it, put tacky flux on the gold plated part of your adapter and use hot air to on the memory to reflow the bga ball onto the adapter for a guaranteed perfect connection. You can also decide to do this later on and leave it be for now, or only put the solder mask on after having tested it.
This is fine. The variance is pretty large. Almost all my OLEDs have been 850~I keep reading that the diode reading for dat0 should be 500-700 but I keep getting around 820. Can someone give me some pointers or let me know if it's safe to solder mask it on and proceed?
Unfortunately I decided to give up, since I was soldering the first wire to the 3.3v point near the emmc chip and the entire thing came off and I struggled to try and put it back it to the point to where I lost it somewhere and can't find it. Strangely enough, I put everything back together and it still works without it (though I don't know how safe it is to keep using with it missing now). I'll try and find a pro to put in for me, sigh...
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