this is no hwfly thread u need to go and ask in the hwfly rp204 threadHwfly rp2040 version from alli. So there is no other option unless flash with usb ?
this is only for the Picofly not Hwflx rp2040
this is no hwfly thread u need to go and ask in the hwfly rp204 threadHwfly rp2040 version from alli. So there is no other option unless flash with usb ?
v2.67 doesn't support update via toolboxplease help me, I try to update firmware from 2.67 to 2.73(update bin) using pico_toolbox. It say success but my fw still in 2.67.
Reallyyy ? Dangg....v2.67 doesn't support update via toolbox
But its have the same chip bro. Its rp2040 with flexible cable. Its just pico but in hwfly shape.this is no hwfly thread u need to go and ask in the hwfly rp204 thread
this is only for the Picofly not Hwflx rp2040
It seems i've wrong.Reallyyy ? Dangg....
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But its have the same chip bro. Its rp2040 with flexible cable. Its just pico but in hwfly shape.
the thing is, the front mount install only has 1 cap to connect to so idk if you can connect 2 mosfets and not have any problemswell if it doesnt work wit pico toolbox, use usb ?
what chip do u have in ur switch ?
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well cant talk about one mosfet that much , but i did try a few single mosfet installs they had bad glitching so i only install 2 mosfets since then. so try to install another mosfet and see if that helps
Then install them to the apu ;-)/the thing is, the front mount install only has 1 cap to connect to so idk if you can connect 2 mosfets and not have any problems
View attachment 388806
I think you're right as I heated up the connector and now the joy con pairs but doesn't do the animation. Do you have any suggestions to clean the connector? I checked and the pins inside the connector look good and clean. I think it's the residual flux stuck under the connector and board.Make sure nothing is stuck in the connector for the ribbon cable. Like some flux managed to sneak itself in there.
your response is the same as going to the doctor , complaining that you got a bruise on your leg and him suggesting to amputate it. thanksThen install them to the apu ;-)/
The whole line (1V) from max ic in upper part to the cpu is the one that you could use as the Drain. That cap is just a POC (Proof of Concept).the thing is, the front mount install only has 1 cap to connect to so idk if you can connect 2 mosfets and not have any problems
View attachment 388806
wtf are u talking about, its a simple answer and one that always works for me never had a issue with 2 mosfets on the apu .your response is the same as going to the doctor , complaining that you got a bruise on your leg and him suggesting to amputate it. thanks
fyi i also have a v2 with long glitch time with a flex on apu so that s not it.
After that you goes to ofw or blue/purple/black screen?Hi all,
I have strange (I was not faced before) problem. The RP2040 starts blinking blue (but not same as successful installs that I have) than throws *== code. All values are in range (0.415 - 0.450). One thing that I used V2 flex cable for APU not mosfet install. Is it because flex cable or DAT0-DAT1 short? I am confident that CMD line is all good. I checked 3 times.
How easy that the APU fails? What cause failed APU? I believed I did not short anything on board.
Thanks.
After that there is nothing. Stays at black screen.After that you goes to ofw or blue/purple/black screen?
Ouch. Thats bad news.After that
After that there is nothing. Stays at black screen.
Thanks for answer, I got it but I want to know what did I wrong. Are there anything that I can try?Ouch. Thats bad news.
This is why i said the risk is too great on using flex or grinding the clk.
Can't help on this.
Theres lot of probability of where it could be wrong.
The emmc are initialized, means the cpu can connect to the emmc. But something is wrong, so the boot process are halted.
Analogy to the pc, similar to when you boot your pc, and the boot will check one by one, then some hardware fault, like memory, or something, then the buzzer will beap in some morse code, then the process halted.
Same here. This has happened to me only on mariko for no reason. Wish i knew what is behind this issue.The whole line (1V) from max ic in upper part to the cpu is the one that you could use as the Drain. That cap is just a POC (Proof of Concept).
I even add the mosfet until 4 mosfet, to try solve the mysterious random long glitch for mariko processor. AFAIK no one until now, has solved that specific problem. Its random nature, normally the glitch will work on around 3seconds, but sometimes the glitch didn't work, and the firmware need to find the glitch point again, hence the long glitch.
I have sxcore on lite, and it have the same problem.
Its only happen on mariko, erista will consistently glitch at around 3 seconds.
you use cutter on the pcb to make a window?I removed everything and it just booted to OFW. I think there was an issue with RP2040 Zero (I personally use double sided foam tape to secure in place but since RP2040 Zero has its core in underside I had to make a window to it with box cutter I may cut some traces. It’s just a speculation though.) I replaced mosfet flex with just mosfet and used regular DAT0 adapter. There is no issues rn.
wait what. im curious now. Show us some pictures with the windows that you cutI removed everything and it just booted to OFW. I think there was an issue with RP2040 Zero (I personally use double sided foam tape to secure in place but since RP2040 Zero has its core in underside I had to make a window to it with box cutter I may cut some traces. It’s just a speculation though.) I replaced mosfet flex with just mosfet and used regular DAT0 adapter. There is no issues rn.
I think what he means is that he puts a larger piece of tape on the rp2040-zero and then uses the knife to remove the part of the tape that sits on top of the chip itself to provide more clearance (make it sit lower). Not the best way to do things but people learn from mistakes so....wait what. im curious now. Show us some pictures with the windows that you cut