Picofly AIO Thread

[Endracion]

@abal1000x likes to double back his wires for the Drain to effectively double the capacity of the wire. The Pink is where the capacitor is. Red it looks like he's grounding Source to the APU shield frame, and then Gate goes to RP2040 like normal.
View attachment 378525

Am I understanding this correctly?

This seems like it would simplify installation too, is it recommended? With 0.2 wire if I understood correctly, and 0.1 is fine everywhere else (guide does say about 0.08 for the rest though, not sure why).

 

[lightninjay]

Am I understanding this correctly?
View attachment 378671

This seems like it would simplify installation too, is it recommended? With 0.2 wire if I understood correctly, and 0.1 is fine everywhere else (guide does say about 0.08 for the rest though, not sure why).

The guide does not specifically recommend any type of wire, merely that many different kinds of wire can be successful based on circumstance, install, and installer.

If you feel comfortable with micro-soldering, and manipulating small wires, then this style of install has worked for at least one member, @abal1000x . The only reason for doubling back the wire is if your wire gauge is too small to transmit the appropriate electrical current during the glitch. One wire has worked for plenty of people.

 

[abal1000x]

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[ikynx]

See that huge D0 circle, its bad, its highly probable short circuit D1. Find adapter with small circle.

Oh interesting..... thanks. I've already soldered this adapter in place (haven't done anything else of the modding process since I didn't have the right type of wiring available). Since, my OLED switch hqs been running just fine, I'm guessing I was lucky...
Might there be stuff I could test/measure to check the adapter may indeed be shorting DAT0 and DAT1?
Thanks very much in advance for your help

 

[abal1000x]

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[Endracion]

View attachment 378673

Using 0.2mm in mosfet is minimum. Even 0.2mm still problematic, thats why i made a u-shaped to increase the maximum current it could flows.

I have experience using 0.1mm enameled wire for anything except the D and Gnd of the mosfet and its work.

My current configuration for lite is:
1. RST, CMD, CLK, DAT0, use enameled 0.1mm wire.
2. 3.3v and GND use insulated wire around 34awg (i am not sure, scrapping from usb cable, 30awg is too big).
3. Gate mosfet use insulated 30awg wire.
4. CMD resistor use 100 Ohm 0603. The reason because lot of issue comes out when using 47 Ohm.
5. D0 47Ohm 0603 or 49.9Ohm 0603.
6. CLK 51 Ohm 1210. The reason is to make soldering easier. In zero theres a pad from Boot button, and it get passed using 1210 size. Use 51 because i dont have 47 ohm with that size.

Thanks for those clarifications, I was just going off what the PDF guide's author mentions using, which are 30 and 40 awg, ie approx 0.25mm and 0.08mm, which I ordered, along with some 0.15 magnet wire for something thicker if needed.

What I like about the loop is that you just need to solder the cap once, instead of at two different places with two wires- and if you say that works by looping and allowing more flow, that seems like a better solution overall.

 

[lightninjay]

Thanks for those clarifications, I was just going off what the PDF guide's author mentions using, which are 30 and 40 awg, ie approx 0.25mm and 0.08mm, which I ordered, along with some 0.15 magnet wire for something thicker if needed.

View attachment 378701

What I like about the loop is that you just need to solder the cap once, instead of at two different places with two wires- and if you say that works by looping and allowing more flow, that seems like a better solution overall.

These were just the two types of wire that I used on my original install. I actually mostly used the 40awg to repair traces/pads that I ripped on my console. I have shifted my wire to 36awg (.127mm) for the majority of my install, and use the above blue 30awg kynar on the power wires for the Pico.

The main principle to remember, is the greater the current you are trying to flow, the higher the diameter the wire should be, to reduce the chance of your wire melting in two from over-amperage. So in our case, most of the voltages and amperages are low, except in the case of the MOSFET to the APU caps, and preferably the GND and 3.3v lines for the RP2040.

 

[Endracion]

These were just the two types of wire that I used on my original install. I actually mostly used the 40awg to repair traces/pads that I ripped on my console. I have shifted my wire to 36awg (.127mm) for the majority of my install, and use the above blue 30awg kynar on the power wires for the Pico.

The main principle to remember, is the greater the current you are trying to flow, the higher the diameter the wire should be, to reduce the chance of your wire melting in two from over-amperage. So in our case, most of the voltages and amperages are low, except in the case of the MOSFET to the APU caps, and preferably the GND and 3.3v lines for the RP2040.

Ah I see, thanks for the follow up on that then, I'll use the 0.15mm wire for most things then, since it's almost 36 AWG, and the 30 AWG Kynar on the power lines as you mention.
Thanks for the clarifications.

 

[aparitxi]

Installation with soldering points on the eMMC memory, switch V2​

View attachment 378575View attachment 378576View attachment 378580View attachment 378577View attachment 378578View attachment 378579

Hi, i damaged the clk solder point on a v2 switch, i already have the 3.3v soldered to the emmc, could you please say me where should solder the wire to have an alternative point of the clk ? Thanks

 

[cgtchy0412]

View attachment 378673

Using 0.2mm in mosfet is minimum. Even 0.2mm still problematic, thats why i made a u-shaped to increase the maximum current it could flows.

I have experience using 0.1mm enameled wire for anything except the D and Gnd of the mosfet and its work.

My current configuration for lite is:
1. RST, CMD, CLK, DAT0, use enameled 0.1mm wire.
2. 3.3v and GND use insulated wire around 34awg (i am not sure, scrapping from usb cable, 30awg is too big).
3. Gate mosfet use insulated 30awg wire.
4. CMD resistor use 100 Ohm 0603. The reason because lot of issue comes out when using 47 Ohm.
5. D0 47Ohm 0603 or 49.9Ohm 0603.
6. CLK 51 Ohm 1210. The reason is to make soldering easier. In zero theres a pad from Boot button, and it get passed using 1210 size. Use 51 because i dont have 47 ohm with that size.

Point 4 says its a lot, this implies that most of them will have issues using 47 .. in my exp this issue should only be specific/exexptional so >47 is optional but not recomended.
Also for v2 if you get 3.3v from emmc you wil oftenly need to use >47ohm (100ohm) ohm into dat0 only, so i use this as a default on my V2 install (because the way im install, yours maybe different).
One time i use 100 on cmd is when the unit cannot wake up(crash/erorrcode) from sleep, and that only once until now.

 

[abal1000x]

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[cgtchy0412]

I have not met anyone in here legitimately have issue on 100 Ohms on CMD.
While for 47 Ohms, theres lot, i also meet it twice, on lite and v2.

The tricky thing is, it only happened if you use the emmc in burst, such as backup the raw emmc. If you use it just for benchmark, or running the cfw, there will be no issue detected.

Also i suspecting the resistor is the culprit of partition corrupt, but yet proven. I myself has not meet partition corrupt. So i still assume the corruption happened because the installer doesn't install the picofly correctly.

This corrupt thing is a mysterious one, as i done many mistakes during early installations. Even once i reverse the 3.3v and ground ... resulting in bsod and a smoke from pico board, also once i reverse clk and cmd, also once rst and ground. of course i turned on the switch and saw bsod. you can say many faults. But from all that the switch survived, no corrupt anything. So who knows how all these corrupt things happens.

 

[abal1000x]

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[daicahuyoi]

Recently i have modded my switch lite with picofly rp2040 but when i turn on it boot straight into ofw, the picofly blink blue first and then 2 green, what should i do. THank you so much!

 

[abal1000x]

.

 

[lightninjay]

The error code is RST disconnected.

But i confuse with your configuration.
The GND pin seems not being soldered.
The D0 resistor seems 91Ohms.
The cmd resistor 47Ohms, and the clk i can't confirm what ohms is that.
Maybe some history why you use that configuration?

They soldered to a GND pad from the Reset Button

 

[jmccarty]

Ok guys new here. Installed my PicoFly but when doing so I really messed up and ruined this capacitor. Now when I boot I have a black screen. Anyone know the value of this capacitor? Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[WalangAlam]

anyway i could online my picoflied switch using may orig games without getting ban?

 

[Adran_Marit]

anyway i could online my picoflied switch using may orig games without getting ban?

boot stock sysnand + no piracy or cfw (least ban risk)
boot sysnand with cfw (slightly higher ban risk)
boot emunand cfw no piracy (higher chance still)
boot sysnand with cfw + piracy (Banhammer)

thats a basic chart of ban risk

 

[snaker]

The "wire" from dat0 to the 0.1mm is a repair pad they are thin copper pads after that I go with 0.1mm to the dat0 pin

Post automatically merged: Jun 18, 2023

The silicon tings look nice , now that I think about I think I have high temp silicon laying around I might 3d print me a silikon for that and make them myself with son magnets in the siliconform hahahhaa

Yeah I use those repair pads for the dat0 connector

You may also try 3d stencil if you are begginer at reballing. It is much thicker it helps at better alignment and it stands heat much better so it doesnt bend from heat as easy as thin regular stencils.

https://vi.aliexpress.com/item