Picofly AIO Thread

Jehmyson

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Nice work. Those look like 38-36awg single core wires right? What did you use as wire stripper? Can't seem to find one for that wire gauge.
I have a tool for stripping fiber optics, like this one in the image. It works exactly for this type of service. It gets very easy.
Search for the name: "Three Hole Fiber Stripping Tool"
 

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BlackPhoenix002

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Are there any compatibility issues with micro sd cards? I asked the HATS github and he basically told me to come here because he wont use pico until its stable but this is the issues i have.

"When trying to launch the CFW (SYSMMC) gives error of unknown pkg1 version ect failed to launch HOS. It does launch into CFW(EMUMMC) although I'm unable to launch any games or download any games. Basically just can get into it but nothing past that. When trying to reboot to OFW screen goes black and does nothing. I need to take out the SD card and hold power for it to get back into Hekate. I'm using a 256gb gigastone if that matters. Went the RP2040 picofly route with I would assume is a V2 switch.side note it gives a message that that eMMC is in slower mode and failed 2 read/writes if that helps."
Found the issue, they sent the wrong resistors. New ones will be here tomorrow.
 

naldo29

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uhhh, i got a erista model, but the light doesnt even seem to turn on, what could it be? it just goes to OFW
EDIT: Fixed what you said, and weirdly enough, it works it boots up to no sd. But theres still no light. What happened? Just checked that the rgb jumper cable was still on there and it sure was, just to be 100% sure i just bridged them completely now so its 100% locked in but theres still no light, did i break it? it was still working when i installed FW
 
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naldo29

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This is a V1 erista. I dont completely understand why there is no light turning on, or why does the nintnedo logo show up when i try to boot it up. Also i chose that 3.3v cus its easier for me to do but maybe its different on the erista model? idk Something isnt right, please help. Thanks!
 

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QuiTim

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This is a V1 erista. I dont completely understand why there is no light turning on, or why does the nintnedo logo show up when i try to boot it up. Also i chose that 3.3v cus its easier for me to do but maybe its different on the erista model? idk Something isnt right, please help. Thanks!
Wrong dat0 connection
 

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dewolf

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for anyone who need installation istruction in italian, here 3 video guide for OLED and V1/V2 and how to cook picolfy
(procedure with 2.5 fw and unlock)

OLED :



V1/V2 :



How to Prepare RP2040 to make a Picofly :
 
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QuiTim

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wow im stupid lmao but shouldnt the chip atleast turn on?
Well god knows what that dat0 line is solderd to so maybe it's preventing the pico from starting.
Also you should use thicker wire for 3v3 and GND.
Also make sure that you don't have a "cold joints" when using that enameld wire.
The solder points should look more like the green photo attached. The ones you soldered on the pcb seem ok but you should check those on pico once again.
 

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lightninjay

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for anyone who need installation istruction in italian, here 3 video guide for OLED and V1/V2 and how to cook picolfy
(procedure with 2.5 fw and unlock)

OLED :



V1/V2 :



How to Prepare RP2040 to make a Picofly :

Did you intentionally, or unintentionally release an already outdated video guide in regards to the picofly firmware? 2.5 + unlock has not been recommended for several weeks at this point. Current firmware should be 2.67 and NO UNLOCK BIN.
Post automatically merged:

This pinout of the Lite has been around for a long time. So that's not true with the 45 ohms?
View attachment 371092
If it has been around a long time, and newer, more accurate information has been provided, does that not mean the graphic is outdated and technically untrue?
 
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MertX2

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Hi, I just finished installong the mosfets and wired them to the switch but havent connected them to the rp2040 yet and I did a continouity test on the capacitor solder points and ground and they were shorted, is this normal or should I be concerned?
 

lightninjay

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Hi, I just finished installong the mosfets and wired them to the switch but havent connected them to the rp2040 yet and I did a continouity test on the capacitor solder points and ground and they were shorted, is this normal or should I be concerned?
Were they shorted (because the meter beeped on a continuity check) or were they shorted because their resistance was Zero?
If the latter is true, then that means your wire has touched ground somewhere and is shorted. If the former is true, and on continuity there is a slight delay before the beep on one side of the capacitor, this is normal, because the capacitor is still passing continuity at a certain range.
 

MertX2

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Hm ok it beeped in continouity mode, I didnt check the resistance. So if the resistance is above zero, even for a short time, it should be fine? I will definitely check it out in a minute.
Post automatically merged:

Alright so the Multimeter beeped immediately in continouity mode but the resistance was about 21 ohms for both of the capacitor lines, measured from the mosfets to the apu shield
 
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ypeeLs

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Hm ok it beeped in continouity mode, I didnt check the resistance. So if the resistance is above zero, even for a short time, it should be fine? I will definitely check it out in a minute.
Post automatically merged:

Alright so the Multimeter beeped immediately in continouity mode but the resistance was about 21 ohms for both of the capacitor lines, measured from the mosfets to the apu shield
it it a short beep or continuous beep?
 

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