Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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GN guys, i need a little help. I'm doing hwfly to the switch of My kids. But i have bridged a mini capacitor, Will be the desoldering wick enough to fix My error? I was installing the Flex but i remove it entirely trying to leave the área clean to try to fix this. Thanks in advance and sorry for My English.
That should be possible but be careful that you don't wipe if off the cpu by accident.
Maybe add some kapton tape on one side or some metal clamp (although the caps are really tiny).
You can use a multimeter to check if the 2 ends of the capacitor don't short anymore.
 
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To follow up, I've sent my designs to the fabs to see how much it will cost in total and this what came up
Jlcpcb was $52 for 10 master flex if you were to shield these ribbons and it drops down $34 without
Lets say shielding isn't required so that's $3.4 per flex excluding any mounting components

The adapter is a different story, not sure if jlcpcb has advanced their capabilities but having used them before they didn't deliver. If you go with pcbway route it will cost you a minimum $100 for 100 adapters which turns out $1 per adapter.

So in total $3.4+$1= $4.4 per kit excluding any components which is the same price of the RP tiny.
How much is that worth to you saving time to earn more vs spend more time and earn less money in the process.

If someone puts in the money to make it possible for the rest to buy cheaper its a proposition.

(scratch that, jlc are utterly useless when making flex cables and will drive you nuts)
 
Last edited by Hassal,
Hello guys, I'm going to install Picofly modchip on my OLED, but I'm confused about it's version and the proper soldering schema. Does anybody know what is it a version? And what is the correct connection schema for this version?
 
This looks allright to you guys?
I am getting ,in continuity, 500(board is cold) value from emmc shield ground to the wire connecting dat0 (its like a 10 cm enameled long wire, 0.1 cm/40 awg )
EDIT : guess this was ok idk. On the first oled i did the value was 450.
 

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Last edited by Crung,
use the tiny but a original one not the clones then the resistors will be correct if u have slow emmc ur gonna have to swap the 47 with 100ohm thats it.
So put my switch back together just to find out I need new resistor?

Does the zero also have the resistor problem?

I'm not seeing much savings here, pi cost the same as instinct with all the materials no?
 
So put my switch back together just to find out I need new resistor?

Does the zero also have the resistor problem?

I'm not seeing much savings here, pi cost the same as instinct with all the materials no?
this has nothing to do with resistor issues.
its just a switch thing some need 100ohm do run properly.
is u put your switch back together completly befor testing then it is ur own fault !!!

with a zero and a tiny u know its works properly with this firmware.
no one has any diagramms from the picofly cloney with clones i mean all other then rp2040 zero/tiny cause thats what the firmware was written for .
Post automatically merged:

This looks allright to you guys?
I am getting ,in continuity, 500(board is cold) value from emmc shield ground to the wire connecting dat0 (its like a 10 cm enameled long wire, 0.1 cm/40 awg )
did u also add uv mask or whatever that white stuff is under the emmc?

did u flatten the 0.1mm wire? u might be having hight issues what ever ur issue is.

and one tip befor u even start the board clean the flux properly.........
Post automatically merged:

Hello guys, I'm going to install Picofly modchip on my OLED, but I'm confused about it's version and the proper soldering schema. Does anybody know what is it a version? And what is the correct connection schema for this version?

that is no picofly thats a hwfly on some other clone there are threads extra for those clones , this thread is (or used to be )
for original picoflys (Rp2040 Zero/Tiny)

is want any information about that board then ask ur seller on ask in the proper thread............
Post automatically merged:

Hi !!!

Just to know, what's a better adapter DAT0 for Oled now ?
Permanent Dat0
 
Last edited by Dee87,
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Pls dont do kamikaze. Its so risky. If you made a mistake, its permanent and its over.
Give reballing a try. its verryyyy easy. i nailed it first try .
You will need a bga 153 stencil (i recommend you buy the kit : chip suport+magnetic plates to hold the stencil) . solder balls 0.3mm (you can go with solder paste if you have the kit, but i dont have the kit for bga 153 ,i only have stencil,so its easyer with balls). And that is all.
Its so easy even a todler can do it.
 

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To follow up, I've sent my designs to the fabs to see how much it will cost in total and this what came up
Jlcpcb was $52 for 10 master flex if you were to shield these ribbons and it drops down $34 without
Lets say shielding isn't required so that's $3.4 per flex excluding any mounting components

The adapter is a different story, not sure if jlcpcb has advanced their capabilities but having used them before they didn't deliver. If you go with pcbway route it will cost you a minimum $100 for 100 adapters which turns out $1 per adapter.

So in total $3.4+$1= $4.4 per kit excluding any components which is the same price of the RP tiny.
How much is that worth to you saving time to earn more vs spend more time and earn less money in the process.

If someone puts in the money to make it possible for the rest to buy cheaper its a proposition.

(scratch that, jlc are utterly useless when making flex cables and will drive you nuts)
Good news !!
I found a fab that will make these cheaper than any of those mentioned. Just a matter of knowing how their quality is.
 
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