I ordered them from the official Waveshare store. It's 4ish bucks.
It could be cause of only one MOSFET yes add a mother one and see how that works out for u ;-)
For me getting a lug in place and securing the bitch in place takes more time than the whole reballing process.
I'm thinking of designing my own jig. The process of uncovering this point shouldn't take more than a min.
Aslo, what happened to the green adapter dude?
a adapter is still no proper connection
i dont know dude havent orderd one yet waiting for @abal1000x to confirm they are working :-)
Last Update:a adapter is still no proper connection
i dont know dude havent orderd one yet waiting for @abal1000x to confirm they are working :-)
I've tried to reball the adapter.
At first i use the big cheap stencil, which consist of other bga. Turn out i need to cut out the bga153 part, since i can't secure the stencil easily. With small stencil, i could fix it better on my jig. I have paste and ball scenario. At first i use ball method, but failed miserably. The heat make the adapter bend. i've broke the adapter 3pcs because of this.
Then i switch to paste. Turns out the paste are way better with heat. It need less heat, and the solder quality on the joint are better than using ball. The problem is paste tends to dirty the pcb with some tiny tin, which i need to manually remove under microscope, one by one. I broke 1 pcs in here, since i use the same heat temperature as the ball one at first attempt. At a later time i realize the paste method can use a lower heat.
Using my experience on this, i use lower heat on the adapter on the last pcs i had, and succeed. I watch on microscope and everything is okay. Unfortunately i've run out of time. If i have time i will try to install it in works day. But if i can't, might wait for another weekend.
There are two probable cause of why the pcb got bend.
1. The bending happened because of different temperature coefficient between the copper and the FR4. Solution is to decrease the GND field, by using a mesh-like gnd.
2. The FR4 couldn't handle the force that exerted because of the temperature coefficient. Solution is by using a thicker pcb.
I think the number 1 scenario is the most probable one. I might change the pcb design to using somekind of mesh-like gnd.
Last edited by abal1000x,
I think you're just wasting time to be honest. From my understanding, even the one being sold isn't good either. Unless you're willing to spend more on the construction this never be a viable option.
I think drilling through 2 layers is an option but it needs restrictions to make it risk free.
If you want to use the drilling route, i think you could reduce the risk by using some cheap $85 cnc such as 3018 type. I have this, and the precision is around 1-2mm. But it will come with problem on their own. Such as the vibration. To reduce to vibration you might need to buy the aluminium version rather than the plastic version. Its another $60 for aluminium motor holder. Or you could buy the whole aluminium set for around $200.
I will stick to green adapter first, its the most cheap and lowest risk i think. From your experience could you share the cons of this green adapter?
I also have the 3018 modified with arduino mega so I can make PCB's it's quite precise if u set it properly , but I haven finished it yet wanting to built a brushless motor for drilling pcb since the others are just to loud for me already tried different ones.
But it would be pretty easy to use that for the drilling.
Although u gotta do is create a proper template for the board to hold and a proper code for the drilling.
On the other hand people don't wanna spend the few bucks for a reballing kit and take the time to learn how to reball, u really think there gonna buy a 3080 modify it so its gonna be as precise as u need it?
The green adapter is a good idea just need a few modifications.
And then only use low melt paste so u don't need to heat it up so much
I am not advising on buy the cnc. I rarely use it. Its almost useless. The last time i play on it, i want to make it to create good simple pcb. But i drop the idea, since the price is easily goes high. I might use the manual jogging to drill the pcb, rather use the gerber file. Only need the precision, since its more precise than using hand manually drill the pcb.
But buying similar price for a good air heat, its way more productive. I use it frequently, even sometimes is not about soldering. Just simply need the convective heat transfer to dry something, in a precise temperature.
Yeah there still something i want to do on green adapter such as the mesh gnd, and change the thickness from 0.6 to 1.6mm.
I already use the low melt paste with mijin brand, and it works well. The solder is solid, i scrub it with my hand it still stick around. While when using ball, it seems connected but when i scrub the ball its loose out.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EHO57iX
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No matter about time. Im a hobbyst and i have a seven months children.
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pictures withou daughter board? either on top of ram or cartridge space. back side not gonna have much space squeeze in a pcb I believe.
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BigOnYa:
Only thing drive me crazy is all these new horror games nowadays is its so dark, all time. I can't even play them. I understand they trying to create spooky but be creative a little, not just darkness with pop out scare scenes.+1 -
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I played the intro to far cry 5, that is like some crazy Jim Jones cult shit. Still its petty damn good. You get to shot them crazy f ers.
