Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

bilalhassan341

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Hey guys !

I put an RP2040-zero on a switch V2 and it boots on OFW with a led code: Long green, short green, short green

I checked my welds, they are all good. Does anyone have any idea what I can check or change?

Thank you so much !

View attachment 380572View attachment 380573View attachment 380574


View attachment 380575
Try to put SDA and SCL wires before tearing it down to mosfet. Because sometimes mosfet is weak to do stable glitch. SDA and SCL wires help on weak mosfets. If SDA and SCL don't work then you have a bad mosfet, btw Good Luck tearing it down to mosfet level🤣
 
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deeps

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The led code indicates that there is something wrong with the mosfet.
Do you have pictures of that part?

long-short-short means emmc init failure during glitch process. afaik this isn't mosfet related. I would try adding extra resistors om dat0/cmd
 

Warzonefury

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The led code indicates that there is something wrong with the mosfet.
Do you have pictures of that part?

I actually boot fine on the chip without the plate. When I put it back, I got the previous error.
 

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QuiTim

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The led code indicates that there is something wrong with the mosfet.


I actually boot fine on the chip without the plate. When I put it back, I got the previous error.

View attachment 380579
Then you have a bad/cold joint or the solder point is to hight and is shorting with shield when you cover it. Try to put some kapton tape over the solder points and try again
Edit: And yes, 99% the problem is what @deeps said in the post below, that part of the flex goes under the shield. You are lucky something didn't get fried
 
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deeps

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I actually boot fine on the chip without the plate. When I put it back, I got the previous error.

View attachment 380579

the rightmost part of the flex cable (the metal square) is supposed to go underneath the shield frame, else you'll press it against the shield and cause a short
 

QuiTim

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finally did one of these RP2040 installs; good learning experience after several years since my last SAMD21 install. went with a seeed xiao RP2040, dual mosfet. relocated the status LED to the front of the board where the (nearly) unused home button LED was, so it can act as an external status indicator. boot times seem good. quite pleased

View attachment 379924 View attachment 379925

View attachment 379927
That was just wonderful to watch. Very nice idea and great execution. This needs to become a standard addition to this mod.
Kudos to you man.
 

Warzonefury

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the rightmost part of the flex cable (the metal square) is supposed to go underneath the shield frame, else you'll press it against the shield and cause a short

THANKS ! That was it! I've always put it like that though.. This is the first time I've had this problem!

No matter, problem solved, thank you, always so effective with the people here! <3
 

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LogicalMadness

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QuiTim

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I like it a lot, but I also like not having to remove the motherboard since this LED is on the other side, unfortunately
It does take more time but it would be worth it for me. The Oled is a bit tricky with connectors but you have to remove the board anyway, the other models are not very difficult/risky and this detail gives a unique allure to the mod.
 
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HackMan37

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Hi everyone, I decided to redo the mod on my lite after getting a better soldering iron with 0.2 tip.

After redoing the mod I got exactly same issue as before, can't boot any payload unless ums-loader or use a custom "Hekate" that I had posted before video.

I tried recovering the boot0/1 partition as I got blue screen with nxmanager and can't read the partitions, so I use balenaEtcher and restore it correctly using V1 switch, with that I got nxmanager reading correctly and restore the Mariko ones, after that I got pink screen when trying to get on unless blue screen.

What can I check after all of those things?

Pics of the new install, nothing it's bridge "apparently".
 

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lightninjay

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It does take more time but it would be worth it for me. The Oled is a bit tricky with connectors but you have to remove the board anyway, the other models are not very difficult/risky and this detail gives a unique allure to the mod.
This mod is currently only applicable to the switch lite, since the Home buttons for other consoles are located in the joycon...
 
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lightninjay

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Damn, you are right :(
I am like you though, I was excited when I saw it, then realized the console I most recently got is a limited edition Red Mario console, and I won't be able to do this mod while I picofly.

I was toying with the idea of trying to re-purpose some of the pins in the joycon to make the connection to the LED, sorta like how the RCM joycon mod works.
 

deeps

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I am like you though, I was excited when I saw it, then realized the console I most recently got is a limited edition Red Mario console, and I won't be able to do this mod while I picofly.

I was toying with the idea of trying to re-purpose some of the pins in the joycon to make the connection to the LED, sorta like how the RCM joycon mod works.

The purpose is rather limited on v1/v2/oled though, since you can see the chip led by simply looking at the switch from the bottom. It's not like you really need it in your face on every boot. It makes way more sense on the lite since the led normally isn't visible when the rp2040 is mounted on top of the emmc.
 

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