Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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How about with this chip how to install it
I want to but I can't find a tutorial
 

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I've got a v2 switch here that I'm fixing for a customer, after a failed install the switch no longer boots, it looks like they toasted the D0 line.

I *think* that via is still ok, but if it isn't is there another point I run a wire from that trace to?

View attachment 378768
Hi jump here to here.. it should boot if thats the only issue.

1687156562850.png
 
Tried 2.74 but it goes directly to OFW(like turning on button and Nintendo logo immediately) and split second later the success or yellow blink. Cant go to hekate anymore. Need help, i want to roll back.
 
Actually no. The terms undervoltage means before glitching decrease the voltage the power ic supplied. This is done by sending some instruction via i2c to the power ic (cmiiw).

I am confused with your sentences. :wacko:
You might search 'Fault Injection' to understand the idea of voltage glitching.
In simplicity, you 'stole' the power that goes to the cpu.

And its done by splitting the current to our beloved mosfet.
The mosfet itself used as a switch (connect/disconnect). When the D and S connected, then the major current will goes to our beloved mosfet straight to GND, and small current goes to the cpu. When its disconnected, the cpu got the power intact.

If you measure the cap resistance is around 10-30 Ohms. That is why the Rds(on) logically speaking must <10ohms, so we could 'steal' the current to our beloved mosfet.

I am not sure what is your issue actually. The timeout glitch?
To understand fully you could read the source code (Thx for rehius to share the code). Its better reading his code than spacecraft-nx, which is more cryptic.

If you have flex cable, its more than enough. I use it twice (given by someone) and its working, the quality is best. I recommend it for someone whose less experience with microsoldering.

Reading your history message, i recommend you use flex, and avoiding using the mosfet directly. It will become very2 dificult to solder it.
I'm using a flex and the error I'm getting is === according to the error codes it's 'cannot glitch.'

Unfortunately I don't know which file to begin looking into for the source. I gave up coding years ago :D I'm guessing it's this code:

while(!time_reached(tio_full)) {
if (time_reached(tio_cmd1))
{
if (reset_attempts > 4)
{
halt_with_error(0, 3);
}
reset_attempts++;
reset_cpu();
tio_cmd1 = tio_full;
}
 

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Last edited by Uberfish,
2.74 more reliable.
Post automatically merged:


I have once get that error code === solve it by shift the dat0 adapter little bit to right (away from dat1). I can't recommend this to someone who doesn't know the thing about it, since it really2 dangerous and risky. But thats how it is.

In my measurement Dat0 adapter will glitch perfectly when the diode value around 600. (I don't know why different, people says 700, but it is what it is). When the error === shows, i checked the diode value is less than 600 around 590. I shift it again, so its back 600. And 600-620 is the highest value i could get, whenever i shift it left and right. The black probe to gnd and the red probe to the dat0 check point.
i got 2 oled, one with dat0 resistor around 600 and it boot within a sec, another one with black adapter and much higher 800 ohm i guess. This second one struggle with data0 error, after some reflow, the resistor drop a bit but still way slower than the first one
 
i got 2 oled, one with dat0 resistor around 600 and it boot within a sec, another one with black adapter and much higher 800 ohm i guess. This second one struggle with data0 error, after some reflow, the resistor drop a bit but still way slower than the first one
the resistance is different on different emmc just so u know
what did u reflow? emmc?
ifso why would u reflow it if u didnt take it of?
doesnt make sense

if u have dat0 error then it is because ur dat0 adapter isnt set properly what adaptors are u using?
maybe ur shorting with another pin, and if u reflowed the emmc the adapter is most likley solder to eather on or to balls if it was shorting.

if u havent set a permanent dat0 adaptor or did not take of the emmc there is no reason for reflowing the emmc
 
I've got a v2 switch here that I'm fixing for a customer, after a failed install the switch no longer boots, it looks like they toasted the D0 line.

I *think* that via is still ok, but if it isn't is there another point I run a wire from that trace to?

View attachment 378768
Safe way about rip pad you must use solder paste little bit and heat from 200 to 250 c 300 350 c. Soldring mask. Microscope. Very thin iron tip. Dont press to much on pad teak your time. The wiers must be same size to pads no more short or long time heat. Very good flux and use magnate copper wier 0.2 mm cmd clk rst dat0 /and 30 gw wires 3v3 GND. You can see in pic the size for good soldring tip.
 

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Last edited by Danook28,
Safe way about rip pad you must use solder paste little bit and heat from 200 to 250 c 300 350 c. Soldring mask. Microscope. Very thin iron tip. Dont press to much on pad teak your time. The wiers must be same size to pads no more short or long time heat. Very good flux and use magnate copper wier 0.2 mm cmd clk rst dat0 /and 30 gw wires 3v3 GND. You can see in pic the size for good soldring tip.
I saw a guy on reddit once who did the whole install of every wire with solder paste and a heat gun but with NO iron lol. Pretty sure it was an OLED and his first every soldering related attempt. Obviously all his joints looked cold because he had no iron to touch them up but I just thought it was kind of funny and I was surprised that it fired up without any issues.
 
i got 2 oled, one with dat0 resistor around 600 and it boot within a sec, another one with black adapter and much higher 800 ohm i guess. This second one struggle with data0 error, after some reflow, the resistor drop a bit but still way slower than the first one
What emmc do you have on your switches? I have a samsung on mine, so if yours is also samsung with 600 it would I do indeed have an issue with the dat0. I honestly wouldn't be surprised since I had to use a OATO dat0 adaptor. Ordered 2 from two different suppliers who said it was the good quality one and they send me crap. Many people here have made the OATO work, though. I guess I should order again and try get the quality DAT0 adaptor to test the theroy. I've actually trimmed back the 'claw' that contacts the dat0 pin to try prevent shorting too since the shape is more like Ω than U (closed at the end).
 

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2.74 more reliable.
Post automatically merged:


I have once get that error code === solve it by shift the dat0 adapter little bit to right (away from dat1). I can't recommend this to someone who doesn't know the thing about it, since it really2 dangerous and risky. But thats how it is.

In my measurement Dat0 adapter will glitch perfectly when the diode value around 600. (I don't know why different, people says 700, but it is what it is). When the error === shows, i checked the diode value is less than 600 around 590. I shift it again, so its back 600. And 600-620 is the highest value i could get, whenever i shift it left and right. The black probe to gnd and the red probe to the dat0 check point.
2.67 more reliable been using for months and i have issues on day 2 on 2.74
 
What is your reason of updating to 2.74?
And what issues ?
Of course its normal to think that far far latest update would be better. So thats my reason.

Problem is, it would immediately boot to OFW. Rather than glitch glitch sucees then START. When you press on, the switch turns on and shows nintendo logo(OFW) while simultaneously glitching(of course glitch is already late)
 

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