Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

  • Thread starter Thread starter mathew77
  • Start date Start date
  • Views Views 3,673,834
  • Replies Replies 17,052
  • Likes Likes 15
Cucktendo losing their minds that's why


Just send them a message and they will help you with getting one.
I actually ordered one 2 weeks before they cloae so hopefully it'll get delivered by tye end of the month but still i was wondering but yeah... Ninjas
 
Hi, one question, in triying to mod my switch but led go cyan, checking mostfet is normal mosfet having continuity in drain and source? Sorry english not my main language
 
Hi all,

Today I wanted to install the pico and unfortunately there was a small accident. I proceeded based on the original description, which says that the 3v3, which is next to the regulator (next to the card slot), should be used, and unfortunately the capacitor was damaged during soldering. I removed the capacitor and although it was damaged, I measured roughly 270nF with an RLC meter. My question is, has anyone been like me before and replaced e.g. with a 220nF capacitor or I read earlier that if it is damaged, I should remove it and it will work. Which one would you recommend? Can 220nF be valid? (we talking about a damaged cap)

ps:
I unplugged the battery and i didn't turn it on so it wouldn't damage it.

ps2:
I used the other 3v3 pin under the wifi/bt antenna connectors.

Very thanks in advance for the help!!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20230509_001822__01__01.jpg
    IMG_20230509_001822__01__01.jpg
    991.8 KB · Views: 73
Hi all,

Today I wanted to install the pico and unfortunately there was a small accident. I proceeded based on the original description, which says that the 3v3, which is next to the regulator (next to the card slot), should be used, and unfortunately the capacitor was damaged during soldering. I removed the capacitor and although it was damaged, I measured roughly 270nF with an RLC meter. My question is, has anyone been like me before and replaced e.g. with a 220nF capacitor or I read earlier that if it is damaged, I should remove it and it will work. Which one would you recommend? Can 220nF be valid? (we talking about a damaged cap)

ps:
I unplugged the battery and i didn't turn it on so it wouldn't damage it.

ps2:
I used the other 3v3 pin under the wifi/bt antenna connectors.

Very thanks in advance for the help!!
My switch lite is working on without this capacitor.
 
My nintendo switch make sound when toach lcd hearing open and sound clear. I see inside lcd conector i think this me be fulty pin inside 2 pin up from it place. Also i well see it after replace fulty capacitor on cpu. Thank you for help.
 
  • Like
Reactions: QuiTim
Hi, one question, in triying to mod my switch but led go cyan, checking mostfet is normal mosfet having continuity in drain and source? Sorry english not my main language
No, there should be no continuity drain-source unless voltage is applied to Gate.
Disconect the battery, then use a small piece of wire or tweezers to touch the Gate and Source (or Gate and some point in Ground like shield or similar). This should close the mosfet.
Now use the multimeter in continuity mode and touch only Drain and Source, if you get continuity something is wrong, maybe bad mosfet maybe bad soldering.
 
  • Like
Reactions: s4n0suk3
Hey quick question guys. I am sure you all saw the threads with the massed produced hwfly 2048 pico editions. I got to talk to sthetix for a bit and he says that it is unreiable and causing people to burn the emmc chip and there are lots of bugs still around this. Do you think this is going to be the case with the mass produced version?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0557.MOV
    9.3 MB
Search in this thread, whether there are any issue on emmc burn because of the pico.
This is the first time i heard theres such an issue.

I more worried on mechanical problem such as vibration might make the pico (or the mosfet) moving and short circuiting something.
Post automatically merged:


Capacitor is basically Open Circuit for a constant voltage.

Its smoothing the voltage for a non-constant voltage. Those small cap usually used to remove high freq noise. Since its near 3.3v, i think its just smoothing the 3.3v voltage.

Ideally for chip to working need a very constant 3.3v. More constant, more better. More noise, more unexpected behaviour occured. (That is the idea of using the voltage glitch in the beginning, finding the expected unexpected-behaviour)

So what is the effect if you remove the cap? The 3.3v might have a high freq noise. It might effect on any chip using on it. People report its fine, then i guess no chip affected. Lot of chip has high range of working voltage (vcc) nowadays.

So in summary its fine to remove it.
Thank you very much for the help and reply!

I will definitely report whether it works without it, in case someone else does the same thing as me! ( more confirmations will only make this better... 😁)

EDIT:
Just for the sake of curiosity, if someone has a disassembled Nintendo Lite in front of them and has a capacitor or RLC meter and would check that cap, I would appreciate it! (and I think many unlucky people like me too! 😅)
 
does this dat0 adapter for oled works okay? because its the only type with reasonable price available in my country, can anyone confirm any disavantage from the dat0 4 achor new type?
 

Attachments

  • 69ffa8f3-b91c-4923-87aa-34163a1fbaa4.jpg
    69ffa8f3-b91c-4923-87aa-34163a1fbaa4.jpg
    73 KB · Views: 73

Site & Scene News

Popular threads in this forum