Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

Kiuxn

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I could be wrong, but did he bridge 25 and ground instead of 24 and 25?
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I could be wrong, but did he bridge 25 and ground instead of 24-25?
Yes, across 25-ground
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Try removing the resistors. RPTiny already has resistors on those lines
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Try removing the resistors. RPTiny already has resistors on those lines
What? Is this a coincidence?
 

ahmedkoko

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Hi can help please i installed pico on v1 nintendo switch i boot to hekate and when i install emmummc give me emmc issue check your emmc is intialazed in slow mode but it enebled after that but atmospher cant lunch give me error can help plz
 

QuiTim

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Yes, across 25-ground
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What? Is this a coincidence?
No, it is like that by design.
I guess they are following PicoFly development and they decided to make this board.
There is a post earlier in this thread where Rehius pointed out that the Tiny already has resistors on the 3 data lines
Edit: Found it here
 
Last edited by QuiTim,
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Danook28

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Thank you ma man you finaly my nintendo switch show on dock tv. It was bad fulty 2 pin on lcd conector. Thank you help and save switch from bad Repair by misteaks. God bless you ma man...im super happy for tv dock...
 

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fox87

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Hey guys,
Finally got my hands on all the Materials. It was a tricky job to do this tiny solder work. when i was finished i got a blue LED followed by a turquoise one so i wenn over the ribbon connector again. My technique dienst really seem to work good with that connection. I tried and tried. Now there is a change. When i power on the switch i get a never ending blinking blue LED like you see on the video. Cant find a clue what thats supposed to mean 🤔🤔

Any ideas?
 

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abal1000x

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Hey guys,
Finally got my hands on all the Materials. It was a tricky job to do this tiny solder work. when i was finished i got a blue LED followed by a turquoise one so i wenn over the ribbon connector again. My technique dienst really seem to work good with that connection. I tried and tried. Now there is a change. When i power on the switch i get a never ending blinking blue LED like you see on the video. Cant find a clue what thats supposed to mean 🤔🤔

Any ideas?
Hopefully @rehius help.

Try check the CMD/CLK/D0 pin. Or maybe just increase the resistance value to reduce the noise. I guess after glitch the code will check activity from the CMD line and D0 line.
 
Last edited by abal1000x,

nico77

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i manage to resolder the point... and clean them.
im planning to change the wire to 0.2mm
try boot, success boot to ofw.(im making sure the point not broken, can boot normal without problem,)

after that i close the surface using UV mask paint, to the non point. so i can solder the important point later...
for now im waiting the paint dry
using some cheap nail uv lamp
(kinda annoying it automatic off after 60s :v)

btw my smartphone camera quality is pretty bad... hard to focus on close up micro T T
Annotation 2023-05-09 192951.png


Annotation 2023-05-09 193040.png


Annotation 2023-05-09 193131.png


Annotation 2023-05-09 193222.png


Annotation 2023-05-09 193244.png


i make sure not close the D0, CMD , CLK and RST:whip:
 

abal1000x

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Its Out Of Topic (OOT), but those uv led wavelength, not even near UVC. Its slightly below violet like 400um, which is the border between UVA and violet. I have playing around with uv and uv sensor. There are no real led could aproach UVC range, but still work for that resin.

I prefer buy gas lamp based uv light source, such as those phillips uv lamp made in poland (which usually used on aquarium). I could also use it to kill virus and bactery at least.
 

nico77

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Its Out Of Topic (OOT), but those uv led wavelength, not even near UVC. Its slightly below violet like 400um, which is the border between UVA and violet. I have playing around with uv and uv sensor. There are no real led could aproach UVC range, but still work for that resin.

I prefer buy gas lamp based uv light source, such as those phillips uv lamp made in poland (which usually used on aquarium). I could also use it to kill virus and bactery at least.

i cant spend more expensive one(theres a UV lamp main for electro stuff, but i cant afford)
theres other like flash light UV, but need 3 AAA battery to power.
so im getting this one (using micro usb to power).
if you can afford the pro one, better get the pro one... faster to dry.:gun: good heat light:bow:


i have test the uv paint on paper, dry with this nail uv lamp...
it work, :shit: dry

the only annoying part, it off every 60sec :V
i need to turn it on couple times.(actually pretty annoying)
thats it
:wacko:


*update
i test and touch the paint...
it dried already :grog:
 
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abal1000x

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i cant spend more expensive one(theres a UV lamp main for electro stuff, but i cant afford)
theres other like flash light UV, but need 3 AAA battery to power.
so im getting this one (using micro usb to power).
if you can afford the pro one, better get the pro one... faster to dry.:gun: good heat light:bow:


i have test the uv paint on paper, dry with this nail uv lamp...
it work, :shit: dry

the only annoying part, it off every 60sec :V
i need to turn it on couple times.(actually pretty annoying)
thats it
:wacko:


*update
i test and touch the paint...
it dried already :grog:
Those uv lamp which marketed as electronic utility is kind of overrated. Not worth the price. Rather buy uv flashlight for covid (or that nail uv), its way cheaper :D
 

Phantomas77

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Its Out Of Topic (OOT), but those uv led wavelength, not even near UVC. Its slightly below violet like 400um, which is the border between UVA and violet. I have playing around with uv and uv sensor. There are no real led could aproach UVC range, but still work for that resin.

I prefer buy gas lamp based uv light source, such as those phillips uv lamp made in poland (which usually used on aquarium). I could also use it to kill virus and bactery at least.
Well, this worked fine for me :D
PXL_20230413_154001479.MP__01.jpg
 

nico77

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Those uv lamp which marketed as electronic utility is kind of overrated. Not worth the price. Rather buy uv flashlight for covid, its way cheaper (or that nail uv) :D

this one
RELIFE-RL-014A-USB-UV-Curing.jpg
hehehehe
this one i wanted last time...
but for now im glad i dont spend too much money
on cheapy uv nail lampy~
lol

i wasted my money more on other parts + shipment
daem shipment cost more compare the little stuff(mosfet,resistors, uv paint, flux,etc) we bought:rofl2::rofl2:
cuz im buy from different seller for each parts.....
 

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Phantomas77

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i cant spend more expensive one(theres a UV lamp main for electro stuff, but i cant afford)
theres other like flash light UV, but need 3 AAA battery to power.
so im getting this one (using micro usb to power).
if you can afford the pro one, better get the pro one... faster to dry.:gun: good heat light:bow:


i have test the uv paint on paper, dry with this nail uv lamp...
it work, :shit: dry

the only annoying part, it off every 60sec :V
i need to turn it on couple times.(actually pretty annoying)
thats it
:wacko:


*update
i test and touch the paint...
it dried already :grog:
Jokes apart, you can use something like this.

1683641205489.png
 
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