Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[abal1000x]

yeah been trying to find cheaper adapter than that one, but as you said better safe than sorry hahaha,

anyway do you know where to buy flex cpu v1 or v2? can only find it aliexpress

Same aliexpress.

 

[jv_233]

Hey quick question guys. I am sure you all saw the threads with the massed produced hwfly 2048 pico editions. I got to talk to sthetix for a bit and he says that it is unreiable and causing people to burn the emmc chip and there are lots of bugs still around this. Do you think this is going to be the case with the mass produced version?

I wouldn’t take advice from that dude…

 

[TheCatsMeow]

Hey everyone, could use a bit of help with this one... Installed the picofly in my switch lite. No ribbon cable, all hand wiring and mosfets. It worked first try, but turns out one of my wires from the mosfets to the cap on the CPU was too thin, so it burnt up. So I swapped with some thicker wire, and went ahead and replaced both of the mosfets as well. After that, I'm now getting the blue led, then green pretty quickly, which means it's succeeding at glitching, but I have no display.

If I leave the switch for 20-30 seconds and then press the power button again, it starts glitching again, although I've noticed that it does take quite a bit longer to glitch. Still get the green LED though after about 10 seconds. Any ideas on what I should check? I'm very experienced with micro-soldering, and I double checked all of my connections so no issues there. CPU caps to ground are measuring about 15 ohms. The square spot on the cpu for the source pin on the mosfets is 0 ohms, I'm assuming that's probably not supposed to be the case... Did I kill the CPU? Or maybe a cap somewhere?

 

[abal1000x]

Hey everyone, could use a bit of help with this one... Installed the picofly in my switch lite. No ribbon cable, all hand wiring and mosfets. It worked first try, but turns out one of my wires from the mosfets to the cap on the CPU was too thin, so it burnt up. So I swapped with some thicker wire, and went ahead and replaced both of the mosfets as well. After that, I'm now getting the blue led, then green pretty quickly, which means it's succeeding at glitching, but I have no display.

If I leave the switch for 20-30 seconds and then press the power button again, it starts glitching again, although I've noticed that it does take quite a bit longer to glitch. Still get the green LED though after about 10 seconds. Any ideas on what I should check? I'm very experienced with micro-soldering, and I double checked all of my connections so no issues there. CPU caps to ground are measuring about 15 ohms. The square spot on the cpu for the source pin on the mosfets is 0 ohms, I'm assuming that's probably not supposed to be the case... Did I kill the CPU? Or maybe a cap somewhere?

CMIIW
The Square spot on the cpu is GND, and S in the mosfet indeed connected to the GND. So its should be 0 ohms. I dont see any wrong thing in here.

 

[TheCatsMeow]

CMIIW
The Square spot on the cpu is GND, and S in the mosfet indeed connected to the GND. So its should be 0 ohms. I dont see any wrong thing in here.

Okay good, that's what I was hoping for. Everything should be good then... Any ideas why I wouldn't be getting any display?

 

[abal1000x]

Okay good, that's what I was hoping for. Everything should be good then... Any ideas why I wouldn't be getting any display?

I forgot the post link, but something like this happened before in this thread. Its the lcd connector that broke.

Editted:
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10131685

 

[1337_Ninja]

This video was sent to me by a friend. Unsuccessful, use 2040-tiny. Purple led。Need to short-circuit 24-25?

I could be wrong, but did he bridge 25 and ground instead of 24 and 25?

Post automatically merged: May 9, 2023

This video was sent to me by a friend. Unsuccessful, use 2040-tiny. Purple led。Need to short-circuit 24-25?

I could be wrong, but did he bridge 25 and ground instead of 24-25?

 

[abal1000x]

I could be wrong, but did he bridge 25 and ground instead of 24 and 25?

Post automatically merged: May 9, 2023

I could be wrong, but did he bridge 25 and ground instead of 24-25?

Its useless right now (current fw), bridge gpio25-gnd just means switch the led color code.

Bridge the 24 and 25 doesn't even have any meaning at all in the current fw.
Need rehius to update the fw to give it a meaning

 

[TheCatsMeow]

I forgot the post link, but something like this happened before in this thread. Its the lcd connector that broke.

Thanks, but no luck. There was a spot on the cable that looked odd, but I scratched away the coating and tested continuity, all good. I even added some solder just in case the connection was broken. Still getting a blue then green led, but no display

 

[Amira]

Hello forum members. Do you know where you can order a complete kit for installing picofly in Russia?
Здравствуйте форумчане. Не знаете, где можно заказать полный комплект для установки picofly в России?

 

[impeeza]

Привет устойчивым форумом. вы не знаете где можно заказать полный комплект для установки picofly в России?
Здравствуйте форумчане. Не знаете, где можно заказать полный комплект для установки picofly в России?

sorry english only forum ( https://gbatemp.net/help/terms )

 

[Amira]

sorry english only forum

Okay, I'm sorry, I didn't know, I'll write on English

 

[LogicalMadness]

Thanks, but no luck. There was a spot on the cable that looked odd, but I scratched away the coating and tested continuity, all good. I even added some solder just in case the connection was broken. Still getting a blue then green led, but no display

Shine a flashlight on the screen when it's on, maybe it's just the backlight. The ribbon cable that goes from the main board to the daughter board gets fkd up a lot.

 

[malgamer]

Ver. 16.0.3 (Released May 8, 2023) LATEST HOS UPDATE​

. WHO tried this firmware , picofly can support this new update?

 

[TheCatsMeow]

Shine a flashlight on the screen when it's on, maybe it's just the backlight. The ribbon cable that goes from the main board to the daughter board gets fkd up a lot.

That was one of the first things I did, doesn't seem to be just a dead backlight. I also inspected that cable, looks to be fine. I tried to boot with the cable disconnected, same result

 

[leerz]

does this dat0 adapter for oled works okay? because its the only type with reasonable price available in my country, can anyone confirm any disavantage from the dat0 4 achor new type?

works fine on a reflow, good quality uv mask on the top and lower side will help this stay in place, this was the first design

 

[Phantomas77]

Hi, one question, in triying to mod my switch but led go cyan, checking mostfet is normal mosfet having continuity in drain and source? Sorry english not my main language

No, there should be no continuity drain-source unless voltage is applied to Gate.
Disconect the battery, then use a small piece of wire or tweezers to touch the Gate and Source (or Gate and some point in Ground like shield or similar). This should close the mosfet.
Now use the multimeter in continuity mode and touch only Drain and Source, if you get continuity something is wrong, maybe bad mosfet maybe bad soldering.

Well, if the MOSFET is not soldered to the caps, there should not be any continuity between the Drain and the Source as explained by @QuiTim, but if it's already soldered and you're using a multimeter in diode mode between the Drain and Source and measure "continuity", probably it's a false positive, since in this case you're measuring the resistance drop on the cap (the Drain is soldered to the cap and Source to GND).

In order to confirm that the cap is not shorted/soldering is good/transistor is ok, I would suggest you to put the multimeter on the lowest resistance range (200 Ohm) and measure the resistance drop between Drain and Source: if you get a reading between 15 - 20 Ohm, you're good to go, this is a resistance drop from the cap. Otherwise, problems.

 

[QuiTim]

This video was sent to me by a friend. Unsuccessful, use 2040-tiny. Purple led。Need to short-circuit 24-25?

Try removing the resistors. RPTiny already has resistors on those lines

 

[Adran_Marit]

Ver. 16.0.3 (Released May 8, 2023) LATEST HOS UPDATE​

. WHO tried this firmware , picofly can support this new update?

Picofly isn't the issue. It's if the crw is updated

 

[soralol]

I have a problem and hope someone get some help / indications about the problem. I installed in Pico on an OLED - When I turn it on I get a BLUE light - after a (short) wile it turns GREEN but only OFW is starting. Cannot see any obvious problems - assuming might a problem with the CPU flex cable - but not sure.
FW is 2.65 on the Pico. An ideas ?

that's not a blue-green light, it's blue-CYAN.
check your cpu soldering or use cable flex instead of the mosfets.