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Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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Hello. One question about MOSFETs:

Why do some remove the caps and solder directly to the pad? That's what Voultar is doing. Is it better?
 
FreeLander said:
Others could confirm but I think this is because the resistor on point A was damaged. The value is 4.7k ohms. Try replacing it.
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Also I can't backup emmc boot 0 and boot1
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@rehius and everyone

I installed picofly and everything works but when booting to OFW I got blue screen and CFW I got error. How to fix software or hardware?


Some say software rebuild nand some say resistor point a 4.7k or 10k
 

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Last edited by Dandan0404,
Dandan0404 said:
Also I can't backup emmc boot 0 and boot1
Post automatically merged:

@rehius and everyone

I installed picofly and everything works but when booting to OFW I got blue screen and CFW I got error. How to fix software or hardware?


Some say software rebuild nand some say resistor point a 4.7k or 10k
Click to expand...
please check your cmd resistor value
 
malgamer said:
please check your cmd resistor value
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Okok I will check later. I will check both resistor CMD motherboard port and the resistor in picofly..


May I ask what should be there value and why will the picofly goes succes if it's a problem?
 
FreeLander said:
Hello. One question about MOSFETs:

Why do some remove the caps and solder directly to the pad? That's what Voultar is doing. Is it better?
Click to expand...
It's easier to solder.
Those capacitors are there to smooth out the powerline so leaving them there would be the best option.
Although under a ton of stress the cpu might get unstable, so far we haven't heard anyone complain about that yet though.
 
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After installing the right transistors, I am still getting the same error. I decided to put the pics off and try to boot the switch without the pico. Now it’s not getting any power. I think I need to solve that problem first. Any suggestions where I should look maybe?
 
QuiTim said:
You need to use both points. Here are some photos.
Click to expand...
the points are already connected though unless the signal isnt strong enough otherwise?

ecko4711 said:
After installing the right transistors, I am still getting the same error. I decided to put the pics off and try to boot the switch without the pico. Now it’s not getting any power. I think I need to solve that problem first. Any suggestions where I should look maybe?
Click to expand...
check to see if you damaged any of the pads and for accidental shorts (you can try plugging into pc to see if it detects in rcm and if it does then there is a bad pad/trace)
 
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Adran_Marit said:
the points are already connected though unless the signal isnt strong enough otherwise?


check to see if you damaged any of the pads and for accidental shorts (you can try plugging into pc to see if it detects in rcm and if it does then there is a bad pad/trace)
Click to expand...
Didn't know that, thank you
 
thesjaakspoiler said:
It's easier to solder.
Those capacitors are there to smooth out the powerline so leaving them there would be the best option.
Although under a ton of stress the cpu might get unstable, so far we haven't heard anyone complain about that yet though.
Click to expand...
That's good to know. When I removed the caps and powered on the switch (without pico) It wouldn't turn on. I had to re-solder the caps for it to power. Yet, it powers fine if soldered to the pico.

Would you please breakdown this for me? Pretty confusing.
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darviral said:
NS V2 SOP-8 Mosfet w/ Resistor 🎮💯
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That's a pretty smooth outer metal cut. Did you use any tools?
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QuiTim said:
You need to use both points. Here are some photos.
Click to expand...
Would you help me understand something? In the 2nd picture, you used the upper cap to get the D point. Does that mean, among all caps surrounding the APU, I could pick any for D-point? Or is it only the two caps we usually solder to the flex cable?
 
Last edited by FreeLander,
FreeLander said:
That's good to know. When I removed the caps and powered on the switch (without pico) It wouldn't turn on. I had to re-solder the caps for it to power. Yet, it powers fine if soldered to the pico.

Would you please breakdown this for me? Pretty confusing.
Post automatically merged:


That's a pretty smooth outer metal cut. Did you use any tools?
Post automatically merged:


Would you help me understand something? In the 2nd picture, you used the upper cap to get the D point. Does that mean, among all caps surrounding the APU, I could pick any for D-point? Or is it only the two caps we usually solder to the flex cable?
Click to expand...
From what i've seen during these last 3-4years it's allways just the 2 caps used originaly on flex cables. Now with Pico I guess we can use just one of them (but still one of those 2).
You use the inner pads of caps for D point on V2 and the upper pads of caps on V1. The opposite pad of the caps in these situation corresponds to S point (basically Ground) so that means that you can also do something like this (see photo).
 

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After welding the RP2040, the blue light on the chip turned blue and then flickered blue. The chip flickered for about a minute and I disconnected the power supply of the switch. I tried to restart the switch chip and the blue light flickered for about a minute. I disconnected the power and removed the RP2040. After removing RP2040, my switch cannot start.
 
Hello I unsoldered the usb port, I am missing 4 capacitors, is it serious?
 

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The second one from the left is not presen
glagla said:
Hello I unsoldered the usb port, I am missing 4 capacitors, is it serious?
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T
glagla said:
Hello I unsoldered the usb port, I am missing 4 capacitors, is it serious?
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The good news is the second one from the left is absent by default so you are only missing 3 :)
 
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Hi, i have another question, how thick the wire needs to be? I was thinking of using tiny coper cable from dc motors.
 

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