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I've got a switch and switch lite to do tomorrow, ive got the ribbon cables for both.
I see some users removing the usb connector and buttons and some not, is it necessary to remove them
Also what's the best guide or tutorial to use?
Thx all
I've got a switch and switch lite to do tomorrow, ive got the ribbon cables for both.
I see some users removing the usb connector and buttons and some not, is it necessary to remove them
Also what's the best guide or tutorial to use?
Thx all
https://gbatemp.net/download/a-definitive-picofly-install-guide.37968/
There's a guide that I wrote up and posted two days ago. Removing the USB and buttons is not NECESSARY, but it definitely makes the back cover fit better.
but only remove them after u succesfully tested them switch with a 2.6+ firmware otherwise if u have issues u will have to resolder
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here is an update pinout and cutting guide for the raspi pico
have fun
please, someone help me, some clever trick to increase the surface area of the g-spot of the mosfet, to be able to solder better?
theres no way to increase it. use flux it should help u get ur cable easly on it
I just measured with my multimeter.
Left one 0.998k
Right one is a capacitor. And I am not sure how to measure it.
Last edited by AlanPavlish,
Thx for that
Oh God cutting up a pico surely easier just to use a 2040 zero
Thx all
Please check my updated post. Sorry. Multimeter was showing different values, and while examining with magnifier, I realised on the left side there is nothing
The mosfet -> APU soldering must be as good as possible, to reduce resistance and improve glitching. So 0.2mm diameter wires, good flux, low temp soldering paste pre-applied onto the caps
20k is not working anymore, that was for 1.x fw only
there are some consoles in the wild that give glitch error (cyan LED) but work fine after pressing reset on the rp2040, hopefully that will be fixed
no resistors on the eMMC lines can lead to data corruption
single mosfet is enough, it is 76A capable. but it's better to connect it to both capacitors
you can fit rp2040-zero without desoldering parts, but you must cut the cover then
in total now 5 boards are supported (ws2040-zero/one, xiao2040, itsybitsy, RP Pico), the waveshare is a default one, for others you must bridge detection pins
Unpatched v1 also works, but people keep asking that
with really low battery you can see the IPL screen, but further load may fail
putting .uf2 firmware file over USB is enough, no need to erase or reset it in any way
update through the toolbox is safe (unless there is a critical bug in the new firmware you are writing). it completes only after a successful boot with the new firmware. otherwise the old firmware starts on the next boot.
picofly automatically resets (and reflashes sdloader into the BOOT0) in case of system update detected, multiple unsuccessful boots, pico firmware update, and even putting into different console.
purple LED might be also caused by bad RST connection
long thin CMD/CLK/D0 wires may also cause "slow eMMC mode" and data corruption
despite of detection pins, all possible mosfet gate pins (6, 22, 15, 24) are pulled down to prevent accidental CPU burn by the high current
there is a possibility of unsupported eMMC, for example, it has never been tested on Micron ones
rp2040 consumes a bit of power after the glitch, now it's 0.6 mA, can't go lower, hardware limits.
Hello everyone I have a problem with my switch....... I had a rp2040 zero mounted but after some hard boot problems in sysnand I decided to remove it and put an sx core that I had... Now the console has a boot very long and when it goes to sleep it freezes...... Can someone help me?
well then u dont have the right tools
i guess the best for u would be to order v1/v2 flex cables
You could also try adapting your soldering iron to a smaller tip like this guy does. When doing crafty things, you must attempt to be craftier than the craft you wish to be crafting, savvy?
hello everyone, sorry for my english.
I have a few doubts.
I have a lite, the picofly uses the same points as hwfly, because I have seen in the images that you don't get the 3.3v from the same place or is it an alternative point and if so, should it be bridged?
another would be that in the capture of hwfly a point is used but in yours you mark two points with a circle that must be joined or choose one of the two?
I have a few doubts.
I have a lite, the picofly uses the same points as hwfly, because I have seen in the images that you don't get the 3.3v from the same place or is it an alternative point and if so, should it be bridged?
another would be that in the capture of hwfly a point is used but in yours you mark two points with a circle that must be joined or choose one of the two?
Attachments
The reality of any circle that has two points in it, is that BOTH points are viable. It is up to choice, whether you want to put your wire to one pad, or to both. This is because when analyzing the board traces, it can be seen that the pads are in fact inline on the same trace.
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I would bet money that you flashed the 2.5 + unlock .uf2, didn't you...
The proper tools are already in use ...
The rest is a matter of my technique.
Using flex cable for the first installation was the right choice.
This is more difficult than soldering to test points on the board.
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