Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[jkyoho]

I checked and it seems fine at first glance I need to know the value of those capacitor

0.1uf 6.3v 0201

 

[DarkXur]

Looks like hardware issue then. Could it be the battery is old and worn?

In hekate panel it shows correct value of capacity so probably no Do you guys have maybe idea of using different power rail? If yes which one you think can be turned off when standby

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

In hekate panel it shows correct value of capacity so probably no Do you guys have maybe idea of using different power rail? If yes which one you think can be turned off when standby

I read yesterday in another thread on GBATempm that somewhere around FW19 / FW20 Nintendo broke something in the software that also causes a battery drain when the Switch is in sleep mode.
So maybe this is a software issue rather than a hardware issue.

 

[Nephiel]

I read yesterday in another thread on GBATempm that somewhere around FW19 / FW20 Nintendo broke something in the software that also causes a battery drain when the Switch is in sleep mode.
So maybe this is a software issue rather than a hardware issue.

If it were that issue, it wouldn't happen while airplane mode is on.

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

If it were that issue, it wouldn't happen while airplane mode is on.

Hmm, that is true.
So we're back at the hardware.
Did the poster share which voltage point he used?

 

[DarkXur]

Did the poster share which voltage point he used?

Yep, but I will post again:

 

[DarkXur]

Just the quick update: finally I detached modchip completely, and issue still persist. So I guess that's not picofly connected

 

[Nephiel]

Just the quick update: finally I detached modchip completely, and issue still persist. So I guess that's not picofly connected

Maybe charging IC or nearby components got damaged during install.

 

[DarkXur]

Maybe charging IC or nearby components got damaged during install.

Yep at this point I am checking resistance on each components (something probably broke, and became low resistor and may generate heat).

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

Yep at this point I am checking resistance on each components (something probably broke, and became low resistor and may generate heat).

Maybe this can be of help. Also take a look at all the other pages.
https://www.retrosix.wiki/bq24193-battery-charger

 

[DarkXur]

Maybe this can be of help. Also take a look at all the other pages.

OOohhhh didn't know this site exist. THANKS! I will troubleshoot the issue and after I figure out the solution I will get back with info what was wrong

 

[BalkanBoy]

Hi guys, I got a quick and simple question. I got Mariko with dead APU and I already bought reballed used APU over ebay. I haven't soldered it yet as I realized it won't work. My question is will it work if I do some kind of hardware hack as you're talking here about? Thanks!

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

Hi guys, I got a quick and simple question. I got Mariko with dead APU and I already bought reballed used APU over ebay. I haven't soldered it yet as I realized it won't work. My question is will it work if I do some kind of hardware hack as you're talking here about? Thanks!

The encryption of the NAND/emmc is tied to the keys in the APU.
There were some threads in the past about rebuilding the NAND with a donor NAND image from another Switch.
It was mentioned that the OFW will therefore never be able to connect to the Nintendo servers.
But you should be able to get the CFW going.
So all that remains is the pirate life for this Switch. *harharhar*

 

[BalkanBoy]

The encryption of the NAND/emmc is tied to the keys in the APU.
There were some threads in the past about rebuilding the NAND with a donor NAND image from another Switch.
It was mentioned that the OFW will therefore never be able to connect to the Nintendo servers.
But you should be able to get the CFW going.
So all that remains is the pirate life for this Switch. *harharhar*

I cannot rebuild NAND image because I don't have donor NAND, I just bought APU itself. So that's not problem if I want to use CFW or rebuilding NAND is mandatory? If I solder APU properly
and nothing else has gone bad I can run CFW but I need to do hardware mode as well? What exactly do I need? Can you point me please?

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but if you get the APU running, you should be able to dump the NAND that is present in Switch.
Hekate should boot because the BOOT0/BOOT1 partitions are not encrypted with the console keys.

 

[twins333]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but if you get the APU running, you should be able to dump the NAND that is present in Switch.
Hekate should boot because the BOOT0/BOOT1 partitions are not encrypted with the console keys.

that is true. you should be able to rebuild the nand with generic keys that the console will accept. obviously you cannot get online anymore, but the console will work. I think sthethix has a guide for that. if you have a donor console, you can get the keys and use those. or you can picofly the current console/nand and see if you can extract the keys from there. good luck!

 

[LuigiGad]

You must follow the level 3 guide of Stethix. Even if you have nothing, if the hardware works, you can get it back up and running without online services.

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

https://www.sthetix.info/unbricking-the-nx-console-level-3-introducing-prodify-nandfix/

 

[retronexus]

Could anyone confirm if this is an inductor and not a capacitor (under +7780 1EWP) voltage regulator? It results shorted in my case.

How do I test for correct 3V3 output voltage on that IC? I would have expected to see the voltage on this inductor

 

[LuigiGad]

I have a somewhat unusual question. Over time, I noticed that the Picofly bypass system (vol+ + vol-) at console startup doesn't always work on all Switches. On some OLEDs, despite everything working perfectly in general (I'm talking about OLEDs with Kamikaze), the bypass procedure gives an *== error. I imagine it's a firmware issue; have you noticed it? Obviously, the reboot--OFW function works perfectly