Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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I have a somewhat unusual question. Over time, I noticed that the Picofly bypass system (vol+ + vol-) at console startup doesn't always work on all Switches. On some OLEDs, despite everything working perfectly in general (I'm talking about OLEDs with Kamikaze), the bypass procedure gives an *== error. I imagine it's a firmware issue; have you noticed it? Obviously, the reboot--OFW function works perfectly
The picofly has absolutely zero knowledge of the state of the volume buttons. Those are checked by the boot0 payload that picofly writes into the emmc, which happens after the glitch has already succeeded. It's more likely that your squeezing of the switch to hold the volume buttons down are making something move just a tiny but but enough for the chip to misbehave.
 
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You could also try to remove the SD card. This way the payload isn't loaded so the boot is stuck. You can then easily press both volume buttons to boot into ofw.
 
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Hi All, I have Switch v2. Can anyone advise if this v2 flex cable still can use? I think i stuffed up. The first 2 photo is the v2 flex cable back and front. If not how do i wire v1 flex cable? it has different orientation. Photo with the wire diagram to the cpu would be good

Last photo is my unused v1 flex cable
 

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Hi All, I have Switch v2. Can anyone advise if this v2 flex cable still can use? I think i stuffed up. The first 2 photo is the v2 flex cable back and front. If not how do i wire v1 flex cable? it has different orientation. Photo with the wire diagram to the cpu would be good

Last photo is my unused v1 flex cable
I guess you answered your own question.
The orientation of the capacitors is different so you can't use a V1 cable on a V2 Switch.
Unless you want to use some wires to but then you might as well connect the wires directly to the picofly board.
Refer to the picofly manual on which capacitors to connect to.
The green wire is just the GND. Note that the original manual assumes you have a flex cable with mosfets but most new boards have the mosfets on the board itself.
 
I guess you answered your own question.
The orientation of the capacitors is different so you can't use a V1 cable on a V2 Switch.
Unless you want to use some wires to but then you might as well connect the wires directly to the picofly board.
Refer to the picofly manual on which capacitors to connect to.
The green wire is just the GND. Note that the original manual assumes you have a flex cable with mosfets but most new boards have the mosfets on the board itself.
ya that is what i means. but the guide you show is more complex with more wiring that using the flex cables?
 
Hi All, I have Switch v2. Can anyone advise if this v2 flex cable still can use? I think i stuffed up. The first 2 photo is the v2 flex cable back and front. If not how do i wire v1 flex cable? it has different orientation. Photo with the wire diagram to the cpu would be good

Last photo is my unused v1 flex cable
You can safely use your Flex V1 for any switch. I'll send you the pinout.
 

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You can safely use your Flex V1 for any switch. I'll send you the pinout.
thanks sorry.. how do i read... i after for example my switch original left/ right cap when it should go to - if it is up or down


something like the below but the below is v2 flex cable to v1 nintendo switch. But i want to know from v1 flex cable to v2. I think i saw somewhere in this forum.. but i cant find it now
1760514509806.png
 
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One more question I got this magnetic wire but not sure the size you think it is good to bridge the v1 flex to the switch smd? It is a very fine and I got this from aliexpress. The photo of the wire as per below and link as attached

If you are talking about connecting the flex cable to the CPU capacitors, then the answer is no.
It is way too thin for that as a lot of current flows through it for a brief moment.
If you have nothing else at hand, just twist multiple wires into a bigger strand.

1760579097903.png
 
If you are talking about connecting the flex cable to the CPU capacitors, then the answer is no.
It is way too thin for that as a lot of current flows through it for a brief moment.
If you have nothing else at hand, just twist multiple wires into a bigger strand.

View attachment 533561
A
If you are talking about connecting the flex cable to the CPU capacitors, then the answer is no.
It is way too thin for that as a lot of current flows through it for a brief moment.
If you have nothing else at hand, just twist multiple wires into a bigger strand.

View attachment 533561
Ah thanks. What size of wires should I use? In mm?
 
Hello, please help with the value of those 2 resistors on the v2 board. Those inside the yellow circle
 

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Hi anybody experiencing weird issues with random V1 picofly installation. i have some units that keep on shorting on SP1 or Sp2 caps, resulting in melting solder that shorts out the switch, it will boot up hekate fine for a little while but it will short out on either SP1 or SP2, the solder over there would melt.

if i attempt more the cap on SP2 will fuse and break out. i've dont multiple installation before v2, lite, oled and this happens to random V1 units. any insights or anybody experience the same ?

i cant seem identify the reason causing it, i check under microscope to confirm, during first boot, one of the points either sp1 or sp2 or both will sort of overheat and sizzle and the solder will melt into a pool and short it out. very weird.

Thank you for the insights and advice
 
Hi anybody experiencing weird issues with random V1 picofly installation. i have some units that keep on shorting on SP1 or Sp2 caps, resulting in melting solder that shorts out the switch, it will boot up hekate fine for a little while but it will short out on either SP1 or SP2, the solder over there would melt.

if i attempt more the cap on SP2 will fuse and break out. i've dont multiple installation before v2, lite, oled and this happens to random V1 units. any insights or anybody experience the same ?

i cant seem identify the reason causing it, i check under microscope to confirm, during first boot, one of the points either sp1 or sp2 or both will sort of overheat and sizzle and the solder will melt into a pool and short it out. very weird.

Thank you for the insights and advice
Put some Kapton over the flex before applying the shield.
 

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