Any reason you don't like the v2? All switches are hackable with picofly, so you should be able to mod it as well
Oh, I just wanted to use an RCM jig and hack it that way so I don't have to pull out my microscope again. I think I'm just gonna get one of the Picofly modchip sets off of AliExpress for it this time since that should be less scary, but I suppose we'll see.
Forget about 2 Mosfet. You can use only one and it will work perfectly. I cannot understand why there are still people thinking on complex instalation with 2 Mosfets.
Thanks. I would give it another go with just one this time but I'm thinking it might be safer just to get a flex cable for any future attempts. Unless that's just a waste of money? I know "no-wire" installations can be a mess if solder gets underneath (had that happen way back when I installed a XenoGC in my GameCube - I should probably open it back up and clean up the joints in the future from where I rewired the whole thing) but I doubt it's a problem here with plenty of flux, a decent soldering iron, and patience.
@Takezo-San (or anyone else who can help):
I decided to look at my Lite on my own before I bother sending it to anyone. I guess I'm just determined to fix it myself.
Not sure what I'm looking for though. What are the cap values meant to be around the APU? Multimeter in continuity mode, there seems to be continuity even on the caps I haven't touched. Not sure if I'm checking correctly for dead shorts though.
Attached is a photo from my final installation where it stopped working. Left it in 4K, not that it does much good at this quality but just in case.
In order from left to right, here are my readings of the caps in ohms (only the ones along the bottom plus one on the side, ending with the one my green/ground wire is attached to). Hopefully I've measured correctly. I think you need to get the black probe on GND side? Not sure which side is GND for some of them (did test so should be correct but not 100% sure).
14.5, 14.6, 14.5, 14.5, 19.7, 19.7, 19.7, 19.7, 14.3, 127.2, 185.6.
Some of the readings are different when I swap the probes but I didn't think it should matter which way around they go.
Something I think I forgot to mention, it cases it matters: Samsung eMMC and RAM.
EDIT: I might have found the problem. Seems the PMIC got damaged somehow. Doesn't look major but it's chipping away when I rub my tweezers on it. Maybe that's the problem? Not sure if that can cause a blue screen though. Just took photos so they're coming (Windows doesn't read the microscope's SD card for some reason so I have to transfer to my phone first).
EDIT 2: Added a photo of the damaged PMIC MAX77812. It just looked cracked at first (no photo), then it was a minor chip that came off easily when I touched my tweezers to it (second photo), then after some light scratching, it looked worse (final photo).
Based on what I could find, one person in this thread said it could cause a blue screen so hopefully that's the only issue. Now hopefully the guy I found can repair it for me, else I'll have to find someone else who can, since I don't have a hot air station.
If anyone knows of an expert in New Zealand or even somewhere relatively close like Australia (though I'd have to remove the battery to ship it internationally), please let me know. Preferably someone who can even reball the APU if necessary (God forbid).
