One of the reasons why I haven't done my custom board was the cost. In this case you are pretty much paying for the RP2040 Tiny but with inferior quality since components are assembled by hand instead of tray machines.
Its good that someone want to make it for themselves but makes no economical sense.
The idea is to have the right resistors from the start, and to have the solder pads in more optimal locations.
Could you stop making assumptions about things you have no idea about, please?
If there's something special other than shuffling pad location and resistors I can see how this is useful.
But comparing the quality of custom boards to a production board while paying the same seems off to me but whatever floats your boat my man.
It's fun though. I have ordered all the parts from taobao. Including the board from jlcpcb 100 completed units will cost me 140$. Nearly the cost of rp2040 zero on taobao. But i'm happy with it. The sole reason is fun if you ask me.
Having a hard time getting the 3.3v line connected. Is there an alternative location for the 3.3v? I found a different location that I think will work for the ground because I'm not a huge fan connecting wires to capacitor locations. I keep either bridging the two caps or I get it so hot that I remove the cap by accident. Also feel free to tell me if I'm doing something stupid. I used some red solder mask in areas I'm not comfortable to trust the insulation on the wire.
Those 'production' board which you are talking about are made in the same factories.
Companies like SeeedStudio that make these RP2040 board also order them from companies like PCBWay.
So quality is just the same.
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Then there is maybe something wrong with the solder or your equipment.
Don't trust the temperature reading on your iron, just take some old board and find a setting that works.
Adding a pre-soldered wire should be nothing more than just a small touch of your iron.
If your iron is too cold then you might indeed hold to iron too long to the component.
Also solder can make a huge difference.
Once got this cheap solder bargain on Amazon but it was only good for soldering some copper pipes.
Last edited by thesjaakspoiler,
And only difference between those and own design is that boards are qa/qc'ed. So any faulty once are already discarded.
For my boards I made, so far non of them are faulty. Im happy with them.
Waveshare RP2040-Tiny cost $4 or even less when you order bulk with guarantee of quality.And only difference between those and own design is that boards are qa/qc'ed. So any faulty once are already discarded.
For my boards I made, so far non of them are faulty. Im happy with them.
I would rather be assured than waste my money.
If you really want to make something that is worth the trade off you should do something different. For instance, add mosfets on board, HOWEVER, this will only work on the back. Where and how to position the board and mosfets is where the magic happens.
Well guaranteed quality is always subjective. You may seen big companies shipping faulty devices at times.
Mine costs about 1.8usd max all in all, and it is designed based on how I work with switches. So no question about it. I may get 1 out of 100 faulty and that is fine for me.
I've tried the one with mosfet board design since the total cost of board + shipping was 3usd only, however it doesn't work perfectly due to many factors. I wish it works but unfortunately the mosfet should be as close as possible to the points. I wish it work and I already have a lot of ideas how to position the fets. But anyhow it is what it is, if only we can find a way.
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Great! I've ordered them as well. 100pcs (panelized 5x4) since I have plenty of rp2040 chip with me.Expecting them to come after 2days.
Thickness of the board I have set was 0.6mm (same as the prototype)
This was the initial version of the board, with my V2 switch. All works good and clean installs. both oled and v2 works perfectly.
I received the pcbs and assembled.
this is my custom one with 0201 components. Now I have 99pcs more to assemble.Prototype 1 vs Final product. Love them both.
Last edited by psycho-neon,
Wow that's impressive. I can't do it even WITH a microscopefirst-time kamikaze method without a microscope
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Looks amazing! Love the purple pcbWell guaranteed quality is always subjective. You may seen big companies shipping faulty devices at times.
Mine costs about 1.8usd max all in all, and it is designed based on how I work with switches. So no question about it. I may get 1 out of 100 faulty and that is fine for me.
I've tried the one with mosfet board design since the total cost of board + shipping was 3usd only, however it doesn't work perfectly due to many factors. I wish it works but unfortunately the mosfet should be as close as possible to the points. I wish it work and I already have a lot of ideas how to position the fets. But anyhow it is what it is, if only we can find a way.
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I received the pcbs and assembled.
Prototype 1 vs Final product. Love them both.
View attachment 424170
Oh! I didn't expect purple looks that good. I'm glad i ordered these two colorous. Do you use hotair gun or hot plate to assembly?Well guaranteed quality is always subjective. You may seen big companies shipping faulty devices at times.
Mine costs about 1.8usd max all in all, and it is designed based on how I work with switches. So no question about it. I may get 1 out of 100 faulty and that is fine for me.
I've tried the one with mosfet board design since the total cost of board + shipping was 3usd only, however it doesn't work perfectly due to many factors. I wish it works but unfortunately the mosfet should be as close as possible to the points. I wish it work and I already have a lot of ideas how to position the fets. But anyhow it is what it is, if only we can find a way.
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I received the pcbs and assembled.
Prototype 1 vs Final product. Love them both.
View attachment 424170
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Last edited by superxoi,
I’m using hotplate just the normal PTC plate 450w.
150x90mm size and max temp of 200deg +/-15. 0201s takes a lot of time to assemble. In 3hrs+ i just manage to assemble only 15pcs. Next time ill just use the 0402 variant.
Decided to use a thin wire for the 3.3v connection, because I had a mishap trying to do it with a thicker wire. The wire broke off when I was putting the heatsink back on and ended up cover the area with solder, which when I wicked it away had also removed the capacitors. I ended up soldering different size capacitors because that's what I have on hand. Just want someone to confirm the capacitors used on my V1 Switch and a thin wire for power is alright? I knocked off the 10nf cap and the one that goes to the 3.3v line. I was able to solder the larger 10nF I had by scrapping away some surface and solder it that way, but the 3.3v cap is listed as either 1uF or 2.2uF and I went with the 2.2uF. Is that fine for my Switch? I haven't plugged in the Switch yet because I'm waiting for a new microscope to come in so I can actually see what I did. The picture quality of my current scope is just trash.
Attachments
Last edited by Dukenukemx,
Has anyone replaced the OLED eMMC with a smaller one? I have an OLED with a bad Nand and wondering if I can replace with a 32 gb one. My understanding is just the user partition will be smaller. I've seen others upgrading to bigger nands but no one going smaller lol.
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