Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[jkyoho]

No it's not. not at all. This setting, wakes the console from sleep when the cable is removed, not inserted or plugged in.
My problem is the opposite: the charger remains plugged in, and the switch CANNOT power off at all. It just briefly powers down and re-powers on and into hekate!
when I unplug the cable, it powers off just fine

I understand you situation but it's not related to that setting. You can try boot into OFW/CFW and plug-in cable, turn it sleep and see if switch wake up by doing nothing

Post automatically merged: Jun 12, 2023

Dudes, a Question:
This diagram with 2 mosfets for NIntendo OLED and Lite are correct?
View attachment 377537
The only thing different I did was ground it on the metal and not the processor.

In the same week 2 switchs are with No eMMC block 0 read error, *=*

The diagram is correct for any Mariko device(v2/oled/lite).
I would pay attention to the Dat0 connection instead of the mosfet when LED code states *=*

 

[QuiTim]

Attached a video. Any tips about it?

It's not the ground point issue. More people here use shield as gnd than apu point. Most likely one of the 3 communication lines

 

[Mr Skinner]

It's not the ground point issue. More people here use shield as gnd than apu point. Most likely one of the 3 communication lines

In the case of *=* No eMMC block 0 read error, does it directly imply EMMC corruption? I have the Nand backup complete, I double-checked the solders to make sure I wasn't screwing up, the Switch worked for 4 days normally.

 

[QuiTim]

In the case of *=* No eMMC block 0 read error, does it directly imply EMMC corruption? I have the Nand backup complete, I double-checked the solders to make sure I wasn't screwing up, the Switch worked for 4 days normally.

Unfortunately don't know, maybe @abal1000x can provide some insight

 

[Mr Skinner]

I understand you situation but it's not related to that setting. You can try boot into OFW/CFW and plug-in cable, turn it sleep and see if switch wake up by doing nothing

Post automatically merged: Jun 12, 2023

The diagram is correct for any Mariko device(v2/oled/lite).
I would pay attention to the Dat0 connection instead of the mosfet when LED code states *=*

this is a good tip. Assuming the previous issue I had was caused by a crappy dat0 on the OLED. I still don't have the device in hand, but I'm really torturing myself to know the chances of permanent damage to the device ( switch lite). I really think it was the dat0 solder that came loose... Could it be?

 

[LogicalMadness]

@karatefeet made a request for links to 'what I use for reballing', figured I'd share with the class...

I just bought the magnetic base, positioning plate and BGA153 stencil from this link:

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mO67mrS

1st time using a mag base and fixture, gotta say, im never going back.

 

[Takezo-San]

@karatefeet made a request for links to 'what I use for reballing', figured I'd share with the class...

I just bought the magnetic base, positioning plate and BGA153 stencil from this link:

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mO67mrS

1st time using a mag base and fixture, gotta say, im never going back.

Excellent. I'm 99% sure NorthridgeFix is selling that similiar magnetic one for an extortionate price of like ~$40. Thanks for this find. Will be getting this ASAP. I was struggling to find the right ones as most are 90mm by 90mm and the stencil I have is about 50mm.

 

[kronicbowlz]

These are less then 20 bucks and well worth it I've had no issues at all

 

[LogicalMadness]

Excellent. I'm 99% sure NorthridgeFix is selling that similiar magnetic one for an extortionate price of like ~$40. Thanks for this find. Will be getting this ASAP. I was struggling to find the right ones as most are 90mm by 90mm and the stencil I have is about 50mm.

Now if only I can make a fan out of @Dee87 with this set...

 

[BlueBeans]

I had one once, and the microsd was dead. Just clean uninstall all, remove sdcard and make sure ofw is normal and stable.
You can redo the mod after. Change the sdcard if necessary.

Of course, if you set it as emunand before.

You can try play Mariokart8, if it doesnt crash then its fine.

Outside shield directly bellow fan, no cut is needed.

what do you mean if i set it to emmunand before? i put it as a dual nand set up if that makes a difference.

 

[abal1000x]

In the case of *=* No eMMC block 0 read error, does it directly imply EMMC corruption? I have the Nand backup complete, I double-checked the solders to make sure I wasn't screwing up, the Switch worked for 4 days normally.

I don't think the emmc data is corrupted.
Its more probable, that the problem lay on CMD/CLK/DAT0 line.
I read someone confirmed using 100Ohms is stable.

 

[Mr Skinner]

I don't think the emmc data is corrupted.
Its more probable, that the problem lay on CMD/CLK/DAT0 line.
I read someone confirmed using 100Ohms is stable.

Maybe using double resistors on PIcofly?

 

[abal1000x]

Maybe using double resistors on PIcofly?

Yes 47+47 = 94ohm.

 

[Browbon]

Hi everyone, after almost breaking the capacitors near M92T36 IC, I realized some problem. My solder tip is too big for modding. Then I found some smaller tip. How do you think about it? Shall it good enough for modding in future

 

[abal1000x]

Hi everyone, after almost breaking the capacitors near M92T36 IC, I realized some problem. My solder tip is too big for modding. Then I found some smaller tip. How do you think about it? Shall it good enough for modding in futureView attachment 377578

I want to know it too. Wish someone confirmed whether this work or not.

Teoretically, that wont work. The heat energy that stored on that tip and transferred to the target, is small. Its like soldering to a big giant GND pad. The pad will take the heat faster than the solder could give. The better design would be a short neck tip, with a bulk of metal behind the neck. That long neck tip, clamped the heat transfer velocity.

Usually blade like tip feels better. Since the blade are big and stored heat more than a small cylindrical pin, it could transfer heat better. The distance between the blade and the bulk is short, so, the heat could transfer faster.

 

[soralol]

check your gnd，both board`s point and pico's，it may be a bad GND modering

Post automatically merged: Jun 13, 2023

No it's not. not at all. This setting, wakes the console from sleep when the cable is removed, not inserted or plugged in.
My problem is the opposite: the charger remains plugged in, and the switch CANNOT power off at all. It just briefly powers down and re-powers on and into hekate!
when I unplug the cable, it powers off just fine

check your GND point

 

[jkyoho]

I want to know it too. Wish someone confirmed whether this work or not.

Teoretically, that wont work. The heat energy that stored on that tip and transferred to the target, is small. Its like soldering to a big giant GND pad. The pad will take the heat faster than the solder could give. The better design would be a short neck tip, with a bulk of metal behind the neck. That long neck tip, clamped the heat transfer velocity.

Usually blade like tip feels better. Since the blade are big and stored heat more than a small cylindrical pin, it could transfer heat better. The distance between the blade and the bulk is short, so, the heat could transfer faster.

View attachment 377580

needle head iron doesn't work well on most scenario except some phone repair jumper wiring.They just cant hold the temperature in general. or Maybe the high-end pulse signal temperature feedback type solder station is more robust on smaller OD tip.
I find D shape or AKA BC type tip in 0.2~0.5mm wide is ideal for Switch repair. Flat head work similarly too

 

[Browbon]

I want to know it too. Wish someone confirmed whether this work or not.

Teoretically, that wont work. The heat energy that stored on that tip and transferred to the target, is small. Its like soldering to a big giant GND pad. The pad will take the heat faster than the solder could give. The better design would be a short neck tip, with a bulk of metal behind the neck. That long neck tip, clamped the heat transfer velocity.

Usually blade like tip feels better. Since the blade are big and stored heat more than a small cylindrical pin, it could transfer heat better. The distance between the blade and the bulk is short, so, the heat could transfer faster.

View attachment 377580

I agree with it but in some case i need the smaller one to tin the point, like this RST point on my V2

as you can see, i only tin one point and can not reach to the other. It made me struggle because it detach many time. Mostly I use the regular tip for bigger pad

 

[BlueBeans]

I just did my second OLED; the first two times I turned it on, it went to the correct screen. when I went to turn it on the third time, I got the *== No eMMC CMD1 request (poor wiring or dead cpu). i took it apart, and it turned on just fine. What wiring could have been "poor" if it wasn't "t poor the first two times? it happened right after i covered it with Kapton take.

 

[abal1000x]

I just did my second OLED; the first two times I turned it on, it went to the correct screen. when I went to turn it on the third time, I got the *== No eMMC CMD1 request (poor wiring or dead cpu). i took it apart, and it turned on just fine. What wiring could have been "poor" if it wasn't "t poor the first two times? it happened right after i covered it with Kapton take.

The most logical one is the CLK line problematic.
But i know that CLK is one of the hardest to check in OLED.