Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[cgtchy0412]

did i break the GND point on my V2? I can not turn on mu switch

Inspect with camera zoom .. also post the pic on the point you suspect (you must have right?). Let us see that.

 

[Browbon]

Inspect with camera zoom .. also post the pic on the point you suspect (you must have right?). Let us see that.

this GND point, i try to turn on my switch without applying mod but it can not. My Switch is V2

Post automatically merged: Jun 12, 2023

Theres lot of GND point, but some people prefer to solder it on some component, which not designed for it, and might broke it cause of the heat, and mechanical force.

I prefer use the GND pad, GND shield, etc, which is designed to be soldered. Especially the GND pad that big and have lot of vias on it to the bottom layer. Its so strong that it could hold high mechanical force.

did my point break? i can not see the metal part compare with the next one

 

[nico77]

You can try play Mariokart8, if it doesnt crash then its fine.

lmao...
monster hunter rise also pretty for me...
my lite become a Hot Pack

 

[abal1000x]

this GND point, i try to turn on my switch without applying mod but it can not. My Switch is V2

Post automatically merged: Jun 12, 2023

did my point break? i can not see the metal part compare with the next one

Looking from https://balika011.hu/switch/erista, it seems similar.

Try to check the cap using multimeter, about the connectivity to the ic pin. Or try measure the cap value (ic chip pin and ground).

Logically the capacitor still works, usually the ripped part is only the top and some of the side, but the bottom still intact.

I doubt that this cap is the reason v2 is not turn on.

Can you elaborate about how can you know that the v2 is not turn on?
Is the backlight on but nothing shows up. Or when powering up, nothins shows, not even a backlight.

 

[Browbon]

View attachment 377417

Looking from https://balika011.hu/switch/erista, it seems similar.

Try to check the cap using multimeter, about the connectivity to the ic pin. Or try measure the cap value (ic chip pin and ground).

Logically the capacitor still works, usually the ripped part is only the top and some of the side, but the bottom still intact.

I doubt that this cap is the reason v2 is not turn on.

Can you elaborate about how can you know that the v2 is not turn on?
Is the backlight on but nothing shows up. Or when powering up, nothins shows, not even a backlight.

sadly i dont have any kind of multi meter to check the value. I try to hold the start button but the switch dont show anything, even the blacklight

 

[QuiTim]

sadly i dont have any kind of multi meter to check the value. I try to hold the start button but the switch dont show anything, even the blacklight

That cap is likely gone. It's not just that top pad is missing but it's also tilted to the side so the bottom pad might be damaged aswell.
But, as abal1000x said, I don't think this should be a reason the switch is not turning on.
I would remove that cap and see what happens.
Also, post pictures of other solder points so we can see if the problem is somewhere else.

 

[Browbon]

Here is my point. Also i got a weird RST point with one part in the right. It make me hard to solder that point

That cap is likely gone. It's not just that top pad is missing but it's also tilted to the side so the bottom pad might be damaged aswell.
But, as abal1000x said, I don't think this should be a reason the switch is not turning on.
I would remove that cap and see what happens.
Also, post pictures of other solder points so we can see if the problem is somewhere else.

Post automatically merged: Jun 12, 2023

And sr for poor quality pics, i dont have microscope. The best i can have is my phone with some microscope app

 

[cgtchy0412]

Here is my point. Also i got a weird RST point with one part in the right. It make me hard to solder that point

Post automatically merged: Jun 12, 2023

And sr for poor quality pics, i dont have microscope. The best i can have is my phone with some microscope app

for better picture try to go on well lit room or outside.. and dont use camera flash. please take another picture so the details can be seen

 

[Dee87]

ِExactly. Do you consider Picofly the toughest mod you've ever done?

Well not really its pretty easy I would say , haven't done a lot of hardware mods though think the last one I done was Of Xbox alladine xt chip so.
Phone repair is a lot harder I would say

Post automatically merged: Jun 12, 2023

did i break the GND point on my V2? I can not turn on mu switch

That cap is def destroyed

 

[Browbon]

for better picture try to go on well lit room or outside.. and dont use camera flash. please take another picture so the details can be seen

That cap is likely gone. It's not just that top pad is missing but it's also tilted to the side so the bottom pad might be damaged aswell.
But, as abal1000x said, I don't think this should be a reason the switch is not turning on.
I would remove that cap and see what happens.
Also, post pictures of other solder points so we can see if the problem is somewhere else.

View attachment 377417

Looking from https://balika011.hu/switch/erista, it seems similar.

Try to check the cap using multimeter, about the connectivity to the ic pin. Or try measure the cap value (ic chip pin and ground).

Logically the capacitor still works, usually the ripped part is only the top and some of the side, but the bottom still intact.

I doubt that this cap is the reason v2 is not turn on.

Can you elaborate about how can you know that the v2 is not turn on?
Is the backlight on but nothing shows up. Or when powering up, nothins shows, not even a backlight.

for god shake, sr for my dumb brain. I forgot to put emmc part in my V2, i thought it solder in mobo like my old litea and put it away. The switch is turn on. Thank you for all the help, I am appreciate it.

 

[Dee87]

Here is my point. Also i got a weird RST point with one part in the right. It make me hard to solder that point

Post automatically merged: Jun 12, 2023

And sr for poor quality pics, i dont have microscope. The best i can have is my phone with some microscope app

That blue cable solder point is really close to the other pad wouldn't surprise me if ur bridging hard to tell though

 

[mian_85_]

Well, finally I replaced the burned resistor on CMD point (4K7 ohms) and the switch came back to life. But now the situation is that the RP2040 starts with blue led (glitching) and after two seconds I have the error code:
*=* (No eMMC block 0 read (eMMC init failure?)

I don´t know where to continue, I checked all the cables and the only thing I doubt is the Dat0 adapter...

Any recommendation or clue about that error code?

Thanks

 

[Browbon]

That blue cable solder point is really close to the other pad wouldn't surprise me if ur bridging hard to tell though

That blue cable solder point is really close to the other pad wouldn't surprise me if ur bridging hard to tell though

it's really the hardest point i ever solder

 

[abal1000x]

Well, finally I replaced the burned resistor on CMD point (4K7 ohms) and the switch came back to life. But now the situation is that the RP2040 starts with blue led (glitching) and after two seconds I have the error code:
*=* (No eMMC block 0 read (eMMC init failure?)

I don´t know where to continue, I checked all the cables and the only thing I doubt is the Dat0 adapter...

Any recommendation or clue about that error code?

Thanks

Just to make sure, what resistance did you use to replace the 4k7 ohms?
nvm i assume that is the 4k7 on main board.

 

[mian_85_]

Just to make sure, what resistance did you use to replace the 4k7 ohms?
nvm i assume that is the 4k7 on main board.

I used a 4k7 ohms 0201 1% resistor, after soldering I checked the value with the multimeter and it gave ~4k7. But later I will check again...

 

[QuiTim]

Well, finally I replaced the burned resistor on CMD point (4K7 ohms) and the switch came back to life. But now the situation is that the RP2040 starts with blue led (glitching) and after two seconds I have the error code:
*=* (No eMMC block 0 read (eMMC init failure?)

I don´t know where to continue, I checked all the cables and the only thing I doubt is the Dat0 adapter...

Any recommendation or clue about that error code?

Thanks

the resistor should be ok now. remove the dat0 cable from pico and lets see what error code you get

 

[axlcat]

I don't know what's this thing circulating about Picofly having compatibility issues with Lite. I just did three in a row all worked fine.
Following standards, using a score, and checking values have worked great for me.

I have made dozens of Lites without any problem, thanks again rehius for your great work

 

[blackheartme]

just curious anyone have any issue of slightly warm switch after picofly instal ? 41-44 Celcius idle and about 47-50 while playing example zelda (FYI this is one of the first v1 i modded, and i did cut the shield abit to fit pico firstime ), also this unit have battery drain problem i just noticed recently 1-1.5 hour from full, im not sure if the unit have battery+heat problem before modding or after, any thougts on this? im still waiting the switch to arrive to confirm anything need to open it again to make sure/

 

[QuiTim]

just curious anyone have any issue of slightly warm switch after picofly instal ? 41-44 Celcius idle and about 47-50 while playing example zelda (FYI this is one of the first v1 i modded, and i did cut the shield abit to fit pico firstime ), also this unit have battery drain problem i just noticed recently 1-1.5 hour from full, im not sure if the unit have battery+heat problem before modding or after, any thougts on this?

Never had this issue and I cut the shield in all models except Lite.
Maybe it is a preexisting condition or maybe you missed one of 3 layers of thermal paste

 

[cicci084]

Yesterday I did several installations.
Among these is a dispute that I don't know how it works (after replacing the display) despite the bent mainboard.

There is also an oled made with Reballing, if it can serve for some ideas, I also used new connections for the mosfet.

Photo release (The photos are mixed up).
I'm continuing to use FW 2.67 which in my opinion is fast, stable, reliable. What am I getting into by not using the new FW?

Post automatically merged: Jun 12, 2023

Hi guys, today I received a switch victim of an incorrect picofly DIY installation.
I immediately identified the problem (it was very evident) as the CPU cable was shorted to ground.
The console did not turn on.
I just partially got it working again.
The current conditions are as follows:
1) The console can start hekate but it doesn't start in OFW, Nintendo appears and then black screen. To start hekate again, I have to disconnect the battery.
2) I get slow emmc error, but I think it's an EMMC hardware error, as I can backup boot0,1 and also all emmc. However, I cannot save the keys, I receive an error (photo attached).
3) I created emummc and it starts up, but it doesn't wake up from rest mode.
My question is is there any way to reset mmc? (I have a donor switch, in case I could use the mmc.)
Can I wake from sleep in emummc?
I attach all the photos.
Thanks for your support.

As for this problem, I carried out the unbrick level 1 and 2 procedures, after adding resistors (actually I redid the whole installation (the one carried out by the customer independently was disastrous by my standards).
Now I don't get slow memory error anymore, and in emummc everything works, even waking up.
I can't get into OFW though, after the black screen nintendo logo.
What guides can I follow?
I can download the keys without error, it takes like 190 or so.